Circuit breakers

[Battis]

My current kitchen stove runs on a 60 amp breaker. It's been there for at least 25 years. I have a new stove coming that requires a 40 amp breaker.
Some people say (including an electrician) that I can leave the 60 amp breaker. Younger electricians say it has to be dropped to a 40 amp breaker.
I'm thinking that it should be replaced with a 40 amp breaker.
Any suggestions?

I've replaced breakers in the past (many years ago) but never a 220 line. Other than making sure that the two wires are inserted properly, is there anything else to consider? I'll shut the power off, check for voltage, then swap it out.
Easy, right?

[lavenatti]

The size of the breaker correlates with the wire gauge. As long as the proper wire was used with the 60 amp breaker there's really no need to change it. In fact you may have a little difficulty with the current wire diameter fitting into a 40 amp breaker.
That your stove draws less current than the old one shouldn't matter. Some of the 15 and 20 amp breakers in your box probably only have a lamp or TV plugged into them.

[DCB]

its wattage divided by voltage equals amps
Manufacture states 40 amp breaker thats what you need to use to protect the product and not start a fire.

[Battis]

The current stove is at least 25 years old, and I have no idea what the manufacturer required for the breaker. I doubt it was 60 amps. Yesterday, an electrician (old timer) said that the 60 amp breaker was probably what the electrician had in his truck. He wouldn't change it. Another electrician (young) also said to go by the manufacturer's 40 amp breaker to protect against a fire.
I'll probably change it but the suggestion that the wire might not fit in a 40 amp breaker is interesting. I won't know until I try to install the 40 amp breaker...right? Is there a way to find out before I try to replace it?

[Hannibal]

I have no knowledge of your level of skill. Having said that, there are multiple areas in a circuit breaker box that are constantly energized. No way of knowing what configuration your current panel has so no way to suggest the safest route.

It's quite likely that the receptacle you currently have will not be compatible with the plug on your new stove. You might need a new receptacle and you might need a wiring change.

Personally I would at minimum find a friend who understands residential wiring or better yet hire someone to make the conversation for you. That person can also evaluate the circuit breaker situation.

Probably not what you want to hear, but sometimes we need to be saved from ourselves.

When I was in my very early teens an Uncle of mine was fatally electrocuted attempting a similar repair. He was a very gifted woodworker but he was no electrician. Our family was devastated.

[Battis]

You're right about hiring someone. Switching out the breaker isn't the only issue - it might be the wiring, too. The new stove will take a 3 or 4 prong plug (there's a 3 prong plug now).

[compass will]

And the stove might be aluminum wire, that takes a special coating and torque settings are more critical.

[Hannibal]

And the stove might be aluminum wire, that takes a special coating and torque settings are more critical.

Just my opinion, but if it's aluminum I'd want it replaced no matter what. I do NOT like that stuff inside structures.

[45_Colt]

The circuit breaker protects the wiring, not the appliance. No need to change it.

45_Colt

[sukivel]

The circuit breaker protects the wiring, not the appliance. No need to change it.

45_Colt

Yep, this is NEC code.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Battis]

If I didn't change it, and there was a problem with the stove, could that give the manufacturer a reason to negate the warranty?

[20:1]

If I didn't change it, and there was a problem with the stove, could that give the manufacturer a reason to negate the warranty?

OP needs to read the manual. From what I've read so far, OP will not be comfortable unless the breaker is changed, so he should do it and have the wiring inspected.

[Battis]

I've read the info on the stove. It says 40 amp breaker. I get varying answers as to what that actually means. I was told I could drop down from a 60 amp breaker to a 40 amp breaker, but not the other way (40 to 60). I've been told that it's not safe to run the stove with a 60 amp breaker, and I've been told that it's not necessary to change the breaker. Two electricians that I contacted told me different answers. I'll pay to have it switched if I have to, but I'm trying to avoid having any type of inspector come into my house. I'd rather just plug the new stove in and go with it as it is but I want to be safe.
Just like a newbie gun owner trying to wade through the info out there.

[Hannibal]

I've read the info on the stove. It says 40 amp breaker. I get varying answers as to what that actually means. I was told I could drop down from a 60 amp breaker to a 40 amp breaker, but not the other way (40 to 60). I've been told that it's not safe to run the stove with a 60 amp breaker, and I've been told that it's not necessary to change the breaker. Two electricians that I contacted told me different answers. I'll pay to have it switched if I have to, but I'm trying to avoid having any type of inspector come into my house. I'd rather just plug the new stove in and go with it as it is but I want to be safe.
Just like a newbie gun owner trying to wade through the info out there.

Ok, I don't know all the answers but I do know a few.

To my knowledge, there is NO reason an inspector needs to look at your property for replacing a circuit breaker or even replacing the wiring. I suppose it's possible some areas have such a requirement but definitely not anywhere close to where I live.

You CAN go from a 60 Amp breaker to a 40 Amp breaker. Think of it as removing a 3" drain and installing a 2" drain. The sewer line was big enough to handle the 3", it's more than able to handle the 2". Now, going the other way would probably be a problem. You can't install a 60 Amp breaker on wiring previously installed for a 40 Amp breaker. The wire would overheat and fail before the circuit breaker tripped. Using the plumbing example, a 3" drain would overwhelm a 2" sewer. That's not an exact comparison so any plumbers reading this let's not argue specifics, please. Illustration purposes only.

There is an argument to be made that the 60 Amp breaker is too large for an appliance that calls for a 40 Amp breaker, but that's probably MINIMAL service requirement, not maximum. Again, let's revert to plumbing for an example. There's a main water line feeding fresh water into your house. Once it enters the home it branches off into multiple smaller lines for sinks, toilets, bathtubs, etc, etc. The inside of that stove is the same way. Multiple circuits branching off for stove top burners, oven elements, broilers, etc. So the idea that a 40 Amp breaker will somehow protect the stove is somewhat misleading.

Again, the above are generalized and for illustration purposes only.

I hope the OP finds this helpful. If it were me and the wire for the stove is NOT aluminum, I wouldn't concern myself with changing the breaker. If the wiring IS aluminum, I would want it replaced and while we're at it we might as well replace the breaker.

If we really want to split hairs, who ever saw a 60 Amp breaker for a kitchen stove to begin with? That's unusual. I would want someone who knows what they are looking at to check and make sure that 60 Amp breaker is appropriate for the wiring to begin with.

[Hometek]

Most stoves have the option to change the 4 wire to a 3 wire cord. There's a jumper inside the connection box on the stove that will need to be installed. The stove may have a max breaker size listed on the nameplate. If so I would go by that. If the wire size is correct for the 60 amp breaker then I wouldn't be overly concerned about the 60 amp breaker feeding a smaller stove. It's kinda like plugging in an appliance that only pulls 2 amps into a 120v circuit that has a 20 amp breaker on it. If something faults to ground in the stove the breaker is still going to clear it. When stove elements fail then it draws less amps not more. The 120 volt circuits in the stove are protected with fuses or breakers in the stove if they are present. Nothing to worry about in my opinion. Obviously going the other direction, 60 amp breaker on a wire that the NEC requires a 40 amp breaker on it is not advisable or legal.

[Battis]

Good answers that make sense. I'm waiting on a call back from an electrician to have it checked out.

[Hometek]

However, if the nameplate just says that the stove requires a 40 amp circuit, then that is the minimum requirement for the stove. Not the maximum limit. Only if the nameplate restricts the breaker amperage to a maximum value would you need to reduce the breaker size.

[Hannibal]

Good answers that make sense. I'm waiting on a call back from an electrician to have it checked out.

That sounds like a solid plan to me. Hopefully this is all much ado about nothing.

[Battis]

My wife had wanted a gas stove. We picked one out, then got a price to run the gas line from the front of the house to the kitchen in the back (45'). $2000 - $3000, plus an electrical line for the controls, permits, inspections, etc. We decided to stay with electric (induction). I could swap the breaker out but I'll have the electrician do it and check things out.
Thanks for the replies.

[farmbif]

its like running my 30 amp welder on the 50 amp wired outlet and breaker that the other welders require. i've maxed that thing out for hours at a time and had no problems whatsoever ever, ive been doing it since welding school back in the 70's, if the wire or breaker is too small thats where you run into problems. but I'm no expert or an electrical engineer.