40 cal case bulge

[gloob]

If it's all matching headstamp, the bulge isn't too bad, and they look like they could be OF'd, I will take the chance they are OF'd and debulge them.

If there is a similar looking bulge in mixed headstamps from the same range find, I won't keep them, even if they look OF'd. That's a strange coincidence unless they're from the same reloader who fired them hot an unknown number of times.

It costs only ~$3, if you already have a 45 ACP sizing die. You just need a push stem and Lee sells them. I think Lee has a minimum shipping charge of $7, now. So price might be up unless you need more stuff.

[avogunner]

All the others here have diagnosed the issue - shot in an unsupported chamber, i.e. Glocks. Yes, the Lee bulge buster works (I have one) but if you load a lot of 40S&W, the best/fastest way to take care of the problem is to get a roll sizer. I have sent off a MFRB of .40 to a guy that preps brass, including roll sizing, so for a couple of cents a round it was all taken care of.
Semper Fi

[BrassMagnet]

I bought the Lee bulge buster kit.
So, when I buy 40S&W range brass:
First I inspect them visually, and reject anything I can see that looks suspect. Then I size the whole batch with a bulge buster. If you are correctly setup, it goes faster than sizing cast bullets with a Lee push through sizer. If one case seems extra difficult, then it gets another inspection and maybe culled. After several hundred, you'll develop a feel.
That's my 2¢
good luck.

I agree with JonB_in_Glencoe, except I bought the Magma Case Master Jr which is an Arbor press with a case feeder and I feed it with a Dillon case feeder. Always lube and always clean the lube off promptly. I do a quick inspection after the first tumbling while spray lubing and again after the second tumbling.
A real badly bulged case will go straight to scrap. Think of a badly bulged case as one that is bulged out badly (.005"+ all around the case for 3/16" or more) as these as so weakened they are likely to case head separate in the rimless sizer. I suspect these cases were actually fired full auto and I see them in 9 and 40.
Also, if it takes a lot of force to size a case, it has also been bulged too badly to trust. When lubed adequately, you will soon notice these as distinctly different than the rest.

[BrassMagnet]

This is I think the proper responce for me. It's just not worth it to save a few pieces of brass then screw up a gun or me. If you've never had a gun "blow" up it's not pleasent and underwear ain't cheap

As far as I am concerned, you are missing part of the point and a very important point at that! All rimless brass fired through a semi-auto should be sized with a push thru sizing die of some kind. Sometimes the bulge is too small to see, will not be reduced in any sizing die which uses a shell holder, and is still bulged enough to jam your pistol with an unclearable jam. Bust the bulge on all and personally decide what your standard for reloading is.

Even if you "only reload brass fired in your pistol" it is possible to pick up brass with yours with the same head stamp which can cause you a problem.

[georgerkahn]

I agree with JonB_in_Glencoe, except I bought the Magma Case Master Jr which is an Arbor press with a case feeder and I feed it with a Dillon case feeder. Always lube and always clean the lube off promptly. I do a quick inspection after the first tumbling while spray lubing and again after the second tumbling.
A real badly bulged case will go straight to scrap. Think of a badly bulged case as one that is bulged out badly (.005"+ all around the case for 3/16" or more) as these as so weakened they are likely to case head separate in the rimless sizer. I suspect these cases were actually fired full auto and I see them in 9 and 40.
Also, if it takes a lot of force to size a case, it has also been bulged too badly to trust. When lubed adequately, you will soon notice these as distinctly different than the rest.

I also agree with JonB_in_Glencoe, and also have purchased a similar Magma Case Master, albeit my Magma unit is for 40S&W/10mm. I used it for the latter, having gotten a deal on enough bulged 10mm brass to make it worth the purchase. I will add that mine is "heavier than a dead minister", as they say; and, kind of bulky to store. I have mine bolted to an oak board so I may hang it n a wall when not in use. Regardless -- if you are anticipating needing lots of cases restored, I can not think of a better unit to purchase!
geo

[Shiloh]

Lee bulge buster.
Size first, then run thru the bulge buster.

Shiloh

[popper]

Once brass is stretched, you don't have big enough press to 'un-stretch' it. You just move metal to another location. That bulge is in the web. You just push it inside.

[JimB..]

Once brass is stretched, you don't have big enough press to 'un-stretch' it. You just move metal to another location. That bulge is in the web. You just push it inside.

True.

I have a bucket of glocked 40 that will one day be used to swage 45acp bullets. Thinking about it, they may not stabilize, shoot.

[barnetmill]

Once brass is stretched, you don't have big enough press to 'un-stretch' it. You just move metal to another location. That bulge is in the web. You just push it inside.

But the external dimensions are restored and that is important for function.

[georgerkahn]

Once brass is stretched, you don't have big enough press to 'un-stretch' it. You just move metal to another location. That bulge is in the web. You just push it inside.

I cannot speak for ANY brass other than the h*u*g*e bucket of 10mm Auto I bought on the super-cheap due to the bulge. Using the Star Magma machine (I bought just for this), I recall only one case NOT being restored to "like virgin, new" condition, and that was due to a case mouth issue. I ran a set of spring-loaded inside distance tool -- looks like a divider except you adjust maximum width -- and I had not a single one with any internal variation. Maybe due to the brass I bought -- again, it was brand new, fired ONCE stuff; the calibre; or, perhaps (for once in my life) I got lucky?
But, again, my brass was formed back to original design.
geo

[SoonerEd]

I use the Redding push-through die.
Works great.

/\ This is what I do...works great on thousands that I've sized.

[Photog]

I used a hacked off Lee sizing die and boolit sizing stem (pusher) for years. I wound up buying a U-die from Henning as my main sizing die after the push through sizing. They don't really need the U-die, but you get more rounds in the custom mags for USPSA Limited. Anyways, shot lots of resized glocked out 40 cases with no ill effects.
For cheap and easy, hack a regular sizing die, push it through and load it up, that's the beauty of straight wall cases.

[Rapier]

Sounds like you would be miles ahead with a supported chamber barrel for the 40. As the 40s are all factory loaded to max pressure limits to start with. So if you expect to reload a 40 to factory and shoot it in you gun, with an unsupported chamber you are screwing up.
I got two Glock 23s in 40 finished and reloaded for them with #9, one full grain under, with 180s in new brass. If they bulge bad, I will pull the bullets and reduce the loads furthur. Never wanted a 40, plan on making them into 357 Sigs and have those barrels also.

[pcmacd]

I have fired tens of thousands of modestly hard lead rounds thru G19s and G22s. No issues at all, but I never load to the max... a couple tenths down.

Range salvage + 2% tin +3% antimony via foundry type.

[popper]

JimB you will be swaging so not a problem. Cold forming to a new shape. I don't load 40 hot and I don't want a blown up gun so I toss bad brass. Do what you want.

[SoonerEd]

I use the Redding push-through die.
Works great.

This is what I do and works fine.

[barnetmill]

I just threw away some boxer primed russain steel case tula fired. I suspect that does cases will never get a bulge or smile into them.
I just ordered: from lone wolf and extended barrel for my G 22 and hopefully it fits. Barrel Length: 5.85in (148mm) Caliber: 40sw
An inch plus of new barrel is one way of getting some more velocity without jacking up pressures too. I want at least a 1,000 ft/s with 180 bullets and might even go a little bit faster with longshot powder. I do have a 41 colt mold and I believe to be .40 cal, but I will need to measure it because it might be less. If it is .40 cal I might try some of the 200 grain bullets in the gun.
I have also ordered a 22 lb spring for it to better handle heavier recoil.

[GONRA]

GONRA's never used this - but THOUGHT ya'll could purchase
a "ROLL SIZER" for "bulged" 9mm and .40 S&W cases? ??
Probably EXPENSIVE but might be worth the $$$$ trouble if ya reload lottsa these? ??

[barnetmill]

Here is my black bear special that I just put together last night. G22 with 5 5/8" lone wolf g35 threaded barrel, eps holosun, and wolff spring recoil 22 lb spring. heavy striker spring.

Hodgdon loading center data.
Bullet: 180 GR. HDY XTP
Diameter: 0.400"
Case: Hornady
Primer: Winchester SP, Small Pistol
4* inch barrel longshot powder _.0gr 1,159fps 32,300 PSI
*My barrel 5 5/8 inches

[gloob]

I rather a G35, but with a good price on a used 22...

There's obviously a safety concern with bulged brass. And there's a reason it's called "Glocked." Glock was the first to make and sell a lot of 40SW guns, and early versions had poor support.

The reason I don't lose any sleep over using de-bulged brass is because when I reload the same brass, it doesn't bulge anymore. Even when I shoot it in my Glock.

Hmm... I suppose if you buy a used G22, it might have poorly supported chamber. Then you might want to buy a new barrel... so not so much savings?