Lee PrecisionLoad DataWidenersReloading Everything
RotoMetals2MidSouth Shooters SupplyTitan ReloadingInline Fabrication
Snyders Jerky Repackbox
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 37

Thread: firewood season splitting large oak

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    3,599

    firewood season splitting large oak

    ive got about a stack of 30 or so trees to buck and split and among them a few very large oak trees 36" or larger at the base. these are the largest ive ever tackled with my 30+ year old 5hp splitter. im not sure how to tackle some of these. the rounds are almost too heavy to move. I'm going to have to move the splitter to the rounds or cut them at least in half. I'm entering hernia territory with this stuff. got the woodshed just about full with about 4 cords now it's time to stack on pallets. ive found there is a certain sense of satisfaction having shed full of split and dry firewood and keep cutting splitting and stacking to stay ahead of the game

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    14,563
    We modified a old wood splitter for an older neighbor with a small jib crane on the end. He oulf run an eye bolt in the side or the bigger pieces and use the hoist to pick them up and swing in place. We also added a bigger (wider) table to it. Made it mush easier for him to use. A hand full of screw in eyes he could get 8-10chunks ready split them take a break and start over

  3. #3
    Moderator Emeritus


    MrWolf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    NE West Virginia
    Posts
    4,901
    Do you have an atv/utility with a winch? I used a deer carrier to lift fencing and such until I got my Kubota. Believe they lift like 300lbs. Good luck and be careful. Watch that back.

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy steve urquell's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Posts
    343
    Cut the wood shorter, noodle it if necessary, wear a back brace while doing the work.
    Dan Wesson 744V .44mag, S&W Mod 19-4 .357 , Stevens 200 .223

  5. #5
    On water northern Mn . 1903.colt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2022
    Location
    Backus Minnesota
    Posts
    36
    I live in northern Minnesota Burn give or take 12 cord a season ,I only burn split 3 years in the rack . My splitter is horizontal - vertical , my subjective opinion is do what you have to do Oak is a premium .

  6. #6
    Moderator


    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Way up in the Cascades
    Posts
    8,190
    I've been splitting firewood off and on most of my life, using handtools. Splitting maul, sledge hammer, wedges---as needed. About 2 years ago I somehow ruptured a disc in my lower back. It has slowly been improving with the help of a spinal cortisone injection and now there is very little pain. But I finally did what I should have done 25 years ago and bought a wood splitter. Nice machine that can be vertical or horizontal. It came in a crate and required some assembly, which took a day, then two trips to town to buy fluids (hydraulic, engine oil, non-ethanol gasoline) and it was ready to go. Meanwhile, I started splitting the pile of rounds behind the house the old way, which comprised about 1/8th of the total, because the splitter has vinyl tires. It had rained quite a bit recently making the ground soft and hard to roll the tires through, and I'm still taking it easy on the back. Then my son-in-law showed up and started the woodsplitter around the front of the house where the largest pile was located, and worked steadily for two days. Now I have two large stacked, tarped piles, more than enough for the coming winter, and I never got to use the wood splitter at all! My $1k toy that I assembled! Now it's in the shop waiting for next summer. As things go, a fellow came around who had newly moved to the area and who needed some money, so I engaged him to go around the property and cut down dead trees. There are 14 of them waiting to be cut up into rounds for next Summer's activities.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IM007426.jpg 
Views:	10 
Size:	96.5 KB 
ID:	319830 Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IM007428.jpg 
Views:	11 
Size:	124.0 KB 
ID:	319831 Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IM007431.jpg 
Views:	10 
Size:	113.8 KB 
ID:	319832

    This is all lodge pole pine, which besides aspen, is about the only tree that grows here at this elevation. The aspen is o.k., but burns too quickly. I envy you your oak firewood, which I used in the past at other locations, and which tends to burn longer and hotter. Another great firewood is madrone, which I've also used in the past before moving here. Any way you go, you can't beat wood heat.

    DG

  7. #7
    Moderator Emeritus

    MaryB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    SW Minnesota
    Posts
    10,318
    Use that oak to grill steaks! Burn down to coals then cook steak over them... I used to use it in the wood fired BBQ pit...won competitions against guys burning charcoal or pellets. You cannot beat the flavor of a hardwood fire!

  8. #8
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    UPSTATE new york
    Posts
    1,739
    cut them short, like half length-your splitter will take them flat, not pretty but they fit in stove OR jib crane with ice tongs or zip strap around wood OR tall pole with simple lever like 10 foot 4x4 with tongs OR rig splitter so ram is on side and roll chunks up to it OR get a 30 pack and a couple young buddies with cute giggly girl friends to work the controls

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Green Valley
    Posts
    763
    Must put in a plug for wool sawyer pants, they really will turn a chainsaw, please don't test them.
    Safety glasses and a thick nitrile apron, Hearmuffs, gloves that fit, plenty of water, not beer.
    Figure out all your costs, and you will find that wood really isn't cheap, even with free trees.
    What killed my project was delivery, per mile on a pickup with trailer, going seven miles.

    In NH I had huge beech and a Didier 5Hp, the Didier was just a beam on tires, low to the ground. On a hillside I dug a slot in the ground, buried the hitch until just the wedge was sticking up at grade. Now I could roll the rounds down the hill onto the buried beam. Helpful that nowhere in NH is flat. I had no way to move a three ton beech trunk, so the splitter went to the trees. The beech were hollow, no good for flooring and widowmakers on each one, stinkers to fell, best firewood, burned clean, needed 8 cords for my furnace. Every summer.

    My dad produced what he called a "hog hook" a D handle to a sharpened hook,
    I think you can buy them, dad made them from barstock with a torch.
    (Low budget operation...I split for a 28" furnace grate, figured each stick cost a nickle, delivered.)
    (I was making firewood because I had kids instead of money)
    The kids each had their own personalized hook, the hook helps pick up splits, jab it in the butt.
    Made some longer hooks of rebar, were made to pull brush with the Cub Cadet.

    That hook really saved my fingers. Hook in one hand hatchet in other.
    Put the hatchet blade in the crack and twist, cut any strings, hook in the crack, pull. Again.
    You can pick up and turn wood with a hatchet smack to the butt.
    Save your fingers for better things.
    Beech made great hatchet handles. Made two unbreakable beech peavy.

    (Beech is tough stuff, I left one stump up a foot, ripped down into it with the Stihl and made a lifetime supply of felling wedges and hammer handles, soaked in oil the beech wedges could be sledge hammered full swing into a back cut of a hollow 40" tree to tip the thing over, cool beans. The hollow beech had no hinge to steer them, was dicey on some of them with their huge crowns and dead spikes, they would split or twist. I did not want a hung up tree of that size. Fun thing was beech nuts fell everywhere very roastable, the deer were right there on them too. Silly does. That 40 acre woodlot still has old dying beech, came right back from the roots, a beech thicket, still a deeryard. Deer are roastable, too.)

    My daughter is the only one I ever trusted to operate the lever, started short sessions at age three.
    She is why I still have ten fingers. Girls are better at paying close attention, than bored distractable boys.
    Boys are better at loading truck, on a good sunny morning, if fed well.
    That's how I spent my summer vacations...I could actually get $100 a cord in those days.

  10. #10
    Moderator


    Minerat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Jefferson County, CO
    Posts
    9,665
    I got a couple of hay hooks and welded the shankes to the D handle so they can take the abuse. Been using them to move wood for 10 years now. Even moving big rounds. Lighter than pulp hooks but sure save the back and hands. Even for moving split wood into the rack in the garage. We've got a 25 ton splitter that can be pivoted to vertical for really big rounds. We only have pine so even 16" x36" can be lifted to the bed when horizontal.
    Steve,

    Life Member NRA
    Colorado Rifle Club member
    Rocky Mtn Gun Owners member
    NAGR member

  11. #11
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Cecilia, Kentucky
    Posts
    6,808
    For wood that is large in diameter, I usually nip away at the edges with my Fiskars Splitting Axe. I've also cut it with the chainsaw in half or 1/4s so I can manage it.
    BulletMatch: Cataloging the World's Bullets

    Lead Alloy Calculator

  12. #12
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Callicoon, NY
    Posts
    784
    I gave up with wood about 15 years ago. Just got too much for these old bones. Used to cut & split about 10 cords a year. But I keep a pile in reserve just in case.
    Switched to coal. Only handle it once, and the ashes are great on icey driveway.

  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy alfadan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Location
    Augusta KS
    Posts
    479
    Hope your not planning to burn it this year or even next year. Wood in the rounds does not season and even split oak can take 2 or 3 years.

  14. #14
    Boolit Grand Master

    Wayne Smith's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Hampton Roads, Virginia
    Posts
    13,655
    If you have an extra chainsaw blade sharpen it for ripping and rip those in half or quarters before putting them on the splitter. Probably the cheapest and quickest way to handle them. If you cut wood for firewood you have extra chains for your chainsaw. Keeping one sharpened for ripping is not a bad idea anyway. I turn wood for bowls, so my chain is sharpened for ripping.
    Wayne the Shrink

    There is no 'right' that requires me to work for you or you to work for me!

  15. #15
    Moderator Emeritus


    georgerkahn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    South of the (Canada) border
    Posts
    3,089
    Quote Originally Posted by farmbif View Post
    ive got about a stack of 30 or so trees to buck and split and among them a few very large oak trees 36" or larger at the base. these are the largest ive ever tackled with my 30+ year old 5hp splitter. im not sure how to tackle some of these. the rounds are almost too heavy to move. I'm going to have to move the splitter to the rounds or cut them at least in half. I'm entering hernia territory with this stuff. got the woodshed just about full with about 4 cords now it's time to stack on pallets. ive found there is a certain sense of satisfaction having shed full of split and dry firewood and keep cutting splitting and stacking to stay ahead of the game
    I concur greatly vis having wood to stay ahead of the cold. Being "almost cripple" with my bad leg, the wood detail necessitates my getting off my derrier and doing a bit of exercise as well! I took down an old apple tree (greatest burning wood, 'cept it needs dry about two years before it burns at prime) and just finished the bucking, splitting, and stacking detail last week. Natural gas forced air is "main" furnace, but it is rarely used. With an oil tank or Propane tank outdoors you are at only your mercy to keep said tanks full. What happens should the (supply) natural gas line break??? I now have about 10 1/2 face cord ready to go -- including the new 2+ cord I got from this apple tree which, God willing, I shan't need until next winter. Here's a picture of my pile from the apple, and a large piece in the LandPride grapple on my wee Kubota BX25D tractor. Wood heats one three times, as they say: 1st as you cut it; 2nd as you buck, split, and stack it; and, finally when you burn it! Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Apple grapple.JPG 
Views:	7 
Size:	100.1 KB 
ID:	319845 Click image for larger version. 

Name:	apple tree wood.jpg 
Views:	6 
Size:	61.9 KB 
ID:	319846

  16. #16
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Location
    n e penna
    Posts
    183
    been heating with wood for over 50 of my 75 years, used to be all split by maul, but a few years ago I got my splitter, makes it much easier. most of what I cut is white oak. as was mentioned, when they get too big for me to handle, I partially cut and then split by hand. works for me.
    Barry

  17. #17
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    East Texas
    Posts
    63
    I use a vertical 32 ton Craftsman splitter. Wood is red oak from trees that have died or fallen on my property. Largest diameter has been about 50 inch. I use a cordless drill to drill a vertical hole about on the center of gravity, then screw in a 3/4 inch eyebolt, then use the gin pole on my old tractor and move the wood under the splitter. The pole is so springy it is easy to move the wood around under the wedge. I repeat on the half pieces on the big ones. It goes pretty quick after you get used to it. I bought wood this year for the first time at 75 years old.

  18. #18
    Boolit Buddy alfadan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Location
    Augusta KS
    Posts
    479
    I've split big rounds in 2 or three pieces by drilling a 7/8" hole and blasting them with pyrodex! Maybe not the most civilized method, but fun!

  19. #19
    Moderator Emeritus


    JonB_in_Glencoe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Land of 10,000 Lakes
    Posts
    15,878
    Just like you, I have no lift type thing for my splitter, and my Splitter is only horizontal.
    SO...
    when I get logs chunks that are too heavy for lifting, I'll rip them into quarters. If they are knot-free oak, sometimes you can split them with a maul and wedge...sometimes, I'll make a cut with the chainsaw a couple inches deep to make the maul splitting easier.

    Two years ago, I agreed to take some hard Maple...the tree was taken down and mostly cut up by the guy who cut the tree down, but for some reason he didn't want the wood. The chunks were too large to lift/roll, and they weren't round. So I had to cut them into quarters so I could load them into my trailer. That dang hard maple was a twisty one, toughest stuff I ever ripped. I needed to sharpen the chain often. It was a boulevard tree (in town) near a busy intersection, so I'm thinking it had 50 years of road salt/sand plowed into the bark?
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  20. #20
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Communism running rampant!
    Posts
    4,756
    As the back gets weaker, the mind needs to get stronger!

    I drool over the ingenuity that some of the folks that post on U Tube about handling firewood..

    We use a home made wood hydraulic splitter that I further rebuilt by adding a new beam for the cylinder mounts on.

    I wanted a taller mast so we could split wooden fence posts with.

    Our splitter runs horizontal or vertical. For firewood we run vertical but I am considering running the cylinder in the upper holes and splitting wood at the waist high level on a raised table. The rounds would be lifted up with a hydraulic side arm.

    Three44s
    Quote Originally Posted by Bret4207

    “There is more to this than dumping lead in a hole.”

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check