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Thread: 22 reloader gascheck maker problems

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold
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    22 reloader gascheck maker problems

    Hello everybody,

    I am from the Netherlands and i recently ordered and received this gascheck maker in .30 cal. from 22reloader.
    Obtaining .30 cal gaschecks in the Netherlands is virtually impossible at the moment, or very expensive (around 90 euro's a 1000).

    Unfortunately i encountered a few problems.
    I tryed different materials eg aluminium and copper in different thicknesses from .2 to .5 mm.
    None of them worked properly, sheared rim, stuck material in the die, stuck checks on the forming stem, and if a gascheck came out, they didn't fit on the cast bullets.
    Sending it back and get a new one with probably the same issues i found to much hassle, so i decided to tune it up myself.
    Luckily i own a lathe and a mill, both are swiss schaublin's, and very accurate.

    The forming stem is a glued an pressfit construction (7mm) so i drilled a partial depth hole from the underside with a 5mm drilling bit.
    Then i used a 5mm punch to knock out the stem.
    I made a new forming stem in the correct size (.284" or 7.2mm), rounded the top a little, and polished this to a mirror finish.
    Glued this new stem back in the bottom piece with green locktite (for glueing gears on shafts).
    Sounds difficult, but is actually no rocket science.

    Now the check maker works fantastic without any flaws, in all thicknesses and both in copper and aluminium.

    Problems with this check maker are apparently a to small forming stem diameter and a bad finish (lack of polishing) of the forming stem or button.

    Hopefully i can help some people whom encounter the same issues and problems with this information.

    Greetings from the Netherlands.

  2. #2
    Boolit Mold
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wolfmaster View Post
    Hello everybody,

    I am from the Netherlands and i recently ordered and received this gascheck maker in .30 cal. from 22reloader.
    Obtaining .30 cal gaschecks in the Netherlands is virtually impossible at the moment, or very expensive (around 90 euro's a 1000).

    Unfortunately i encountered a few problems.
    I tryed different materials eg aluminium and copper in different thicknesses from .2 to .5 mm.
    None of them worked properly, sheared rim, stuck material in the die, stuck checks on the forming stem, and if a gascheck came out, they didn't fit on the cast bullets.
    Sending it back and get a new one with probably the same issues i found to much hassle, so i decided to tune it up myself.
    Luckily i own a lathe and a mill, both are swiss schaublin's, and very accurate.

    The forming stem is a glued an pressfit construction (7mm) so i drilled a partial depth hole from the underside with a 5mm drilling bit.
    Then i used a 5mm punch to knock out the stem.
    I made a new forming stem in the correct size (.284" or 7.2mm), rounded the top a little, and polished this to a mirror finish.
    Glued this new stem back in the bottom piece with green locktite (for glueing gears on shafts).
    Sounds difficult, but is actually no rocket science.

    Now the check maker works fantastic without any flaws, in all thicknesses and both in copper and aluminium.

    Problems with this check maker are apparently a to small forming stem diameter and a bad finish (lack of polishing) of the forming stem or button.

    Hopefully i can help some people whom encounter the same issues and problems with this information.

    Greetings from the Netherlands.

    Next time i will make my gascheck makers myself from the beginning, i have the tools for this anyway.

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy shaggybull's Avatar
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    Ran into same problem, returned it. He sent me a new it didn't work either. Sent the second one back USPS lost it in mail but it was insured. So USPS paid.

  4. #4
    Boolit Mold
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    Hi shaggybull,

    Sorry to hear that you have had the same problems.
    Hopefully you get your money back soon.

    I think they have a quality problem due to a high demand for these things.

    It is a pity, because the concept is good, and the machining quality of the parts, except for the forming stem or button is very good.

    I found a lot of information meanwhile on this forum, about making your own, and most important, the size the stem should be, and the finish of this part.
    This part determines if the check-maker will work or not, and 22reloader fails exactly on this part.

    I consider myself lucky, that i have the tooling and machines to solve the problem, but you may expect a working piece of equipment for this kind of money.

    good luck with your refund.

    Greetings from the Netherlands.

    Toon.

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Wolfmaster... if you plan on making your own gas check makers I know there have been plans for three or four different types posted on Cast Boolits. I think the two most "popular" are the Ed Smith version and the IDZ version. I have made a couple of the Ed Smith gas check makers in "mallet" version because I didn't want to subject my loading press to the heavy loads of punchjing and forming 0.019" thick aluminum (old gutter material). The IDZ gas check maker is for using in a loading press, the Ed Smith gas check makers can be used with a mallet or arbor press like Freechex or an adapter made for use in a loading press.

    If you don't have them the plans for both are here:

    Ed Smith:

    https://sebagosales.com/gaschex/Check-Maker1&2.pdf

    Idz:

    https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...gas-checkmaker

    Click on the "attached thumbnails" image in post #1 and the write up will download.

    Sorry to hear that your 22 Reloader gas check maker didn't work well. I Have no experience with those. However, I can say that the Ed Smith gas check maker works very well and I read that the IDZ gas check maker works well too.

    If you have the skills and a lathe they are both easy to make.

    Longbow

  6. #6
    Boolit Mold
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    Hello Longbow,

    Thank you for your reply.
    The IDZ plans i had found already on this forum.
    For the moment the 22reloader is working fine.
    I can see your point about the forces in the reloader press with some thicker material , from .35mm up i think the mallet type is better.

    Again thanks for your reply, much appreciated.

    Toon.

  7. #7
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    georgerkahn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wolfmaster View Post
    Hello everybody,

    I am from the Netherlands and i recently ordered and received this gascheck maker in .30 cal. from 22reloader.
    Obtaining .30 cal gaschecks in the Netherlands is virtually impossible at the moment, or very expensive (around 90 euro's a 1000).

    Unfortunately i encountered a few problems.
    I tryed different materials eg aluminium and copper in different thicknesses from .2 to .5 mm.
    None of them worked properly, sheared rim, stuck material in the die, stuck checks on the forming stem, and if a gascheck came out, they didn't fit on the cast bullets.
    Sending it back and get a new one with probably the same issues i found to much hassle, so i decided to tune it up myself.
    Luckily i own a lathe and a mill, both are swiss schaublin's, and very accurate.

    The forming stem is a glued an pressfit construction (7mm) so i drilled a partial depth hole from the underside with a 5mm drilling bit.
    Then i used a 5mm punch to knock out the stem.
    I made a new forming stem in the correct size (.284" or 7.2mm), rounded the top a little, and polished this to a mirror finish.
    Glued this new stem back in the bottom piece with green locktite (for glueing gears on shafts).
    Sounds difficult, but is actually no rocket science.

    Now the check maker works fantastic without any flaws, in all thicknesses and both in copper and aluminium.

    Problems with this check maker are apparently a to small forming stem diameter and a bad finish (lack of polishing) of the forming stem or button.

    Hopefully i can help some people whom encounter the same issues and problems with this information.

    Greetings from the Netherlands.
    Thank you for your ingenious and enlightening solution! A while back I made one -- also .30 calibre -- using a Letter drill bit's shank -- I varied between "L" and "M" using Pepsi Cola can as metal. I bored/reamed a large brass nut with small diameter hole to be "just right", and still have this Rube Goldberg setup somewhere in my boxes of "stuff". An RCBS single stage press was used to make the checks. My need was for a .30-40 Krag I purchased "on the cheap" as they say, and my home-made gas checker was my last ditch attempt at getting more lead out of the barrel than remained (a bit of an exaggeration ) after pulling the trigger. A fellow at range/club was looking for a wall-hanger, and shortly thereafter it became his; no need for a 'check-maker since.
    geo

  8. #8
    Boolit Mold
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    Hai Geo,

    I use the checkmaker for checks on my .308 win. casts.
    I shoot them with great accuaracy (half moa to 3/4 moa) at 100 mtrs. From a Parker Hale 1200xt and from an Eddy Keijer ,a dutch gun maker who builts very nice longrange guns based on Mauser K98 action with a cold hammered styer barrel.
    It took me a long time to figure out the correct powder charge, primer, bullet type and seating depth foŕ this result.
    Started with fast powders (vihtavuori N320 and N32C) with charges fro 11 to 13 grain, I ended up with N120 with around 31 grain.
    Velocities are more or less the same as with Sierra Game Kings 168 grain and Lapua scenars in 167 grains, witch I shoot up to 900mtrs.

    When I started with casts, I loaded reduced charges (with the fast powders), but now at full velocities I have mutch better results on 100 mtr.
    With powder coat and gas checks there is no problem with leading or fouling, and the casts handle the velocities with ease.

    Sad for the Krag, i like those rifles.

    Greetings from the Netherlands.

  9. #9
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    georgerkahn's Avatar
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    I had, for quite a while, yearned for a Krag and "finally" saw one at a gun show with pretty good furniture, an action which seemed serviceable, with it's bore quite caked with blackish crud. Its price was so attractive I did not think the seller's claim he new nothing about the rifle might be a "red flag". My late friend Hughie and I spent almost an entire day cleaning the barrel, and what was under the crud is almost indescribable. We used my dated bullet check, where one simply puts a bullet in the bore: If it drops right through, it's too small; if the wood dowel used to move it can hardly do so, it's too big; and, a snug fit is "just right". (This was at least thirty years back -- before computers/this wonderful site, etc.). I still have its i.d. for reference: It was a Springfield 1898 S/n 430,0xx which had been made in 1902. The fellow I sold it to -- bion at a few dollars less than I gave for it -- said he wanted it as a wall-hanger at his camp with it being NOT a shooter as a "plus", lest someone steal it. In truth, I heard he sent it to a gunsmith where he had it re-barreled and upon its return to him sold it at quite the profit. (If so, I'm happy for him.)
    Anyhoo -- that's the story re my Krag .
    BEST to you!
    geo

  10. #10
    Boolit Mold
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    Hey Geo,

    For sure there will be another one some day.

    Grt.

  11. #11
    Boolit Mold
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    I found a Finnish Mosin once, a original M39 with a Tikkakoski (Tikka) barel that was made for the D166 bullet (.308), which was the 7.62x53R round.
    Some wannabe, now it all, had shot out the barrel complete and ruined it with russian surplus steel jacket ammo 7.26x54R wich is .312.
    Still he thought he was selling a top priced gun, untill I showed him pictures and a recording I made with my bore scope.
    Later I was asked by someone he selled the gun to for top money if I could help him because he couldn't get it grouping.
    Sometimes you encounter people you do not wanna now.

    Grt.

    Toon.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check