1898 Krag Project

[TheAbe]

Ok, I told myself I was going to lay-off buying additional guns for a while, but there are always those exceptions for when there’s an item on your “someday” list that you just don’t think you can afford right now, and all of a sudden one is for sale in your price range. That’s what happened to me here: bought this one off GB for 230 including tax, shipping, and transfer fees. As a sporter, there’s really only 2 issues, that is no sights and it was missing the seer spring. However, with the full-length barrel, I’m going to try and restore this one to its original condition with a forend repair piece.
I may also eventually replace the barrel if needed. It’s never been drilled, and the list of parts needed is surprisingly short, all things considered. You may have seen my poll about Krag sights, and that’s because I’m trying to decide which variant to restore mine to, but it may just come down to what is most affordable/what I manage to find or win at auction or here. Now for photos, as-received, and the stock after a month or so of cleaning and boiled linseed oil treatments...not yet restored to full length.

[littlejack]

Shouldn't have much trouble finding a rear sight. As for the sear spring, if you can't find one, you can always make one with a different spring with the matching dimensions.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

It's a fortunate event to find one of these "sporters" that still has the full length barrel. I restored several of them to "as-issued" by "stretching" the stock. The first couple I worked on I purchased the missing fore end wood on e-bay, but the later ones I found a suitable piece of walnut and made it myself. Not very difficult if you have a good set of rasps and files a sander, and a sense of shape. You have to cut off the remaining fore end right in the middle of the middle barrel band mark. Make sure that the end of the replacement fore end is sanded square, and do the same for the stock at the joint to assure a seamless fit. I used two of Brownell's stock repair pins in matching holes I drilled on either side of the barrel channel, plus Accra Glas Gel for the bond. When the middle band is replaced on the finished stock the joint is invisible. As for the front band and other parts you may need, all can eventually be found on e-bay, but some are scarcer than others and repeated visits may be needed to find them. The various model sights are usually available, usually without screws. Sometimes replica screws are available and I bought several sets which worked fine unless the sight holes had been tampered with. They have their own peculiar thread, and are not a hardware store item.



Two of the three full length rifles standing in the photo were "stretched", one is original.

DG

[littlejack]

DG:
Those are some very fine specimens of the Krag variety. Nice stock work. Thank you for the pics.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

Thank you for the kind words.

DG

[TheAbe]

Yes, most beautiful work on those DG. I’d only hope that mine is somewhere near those. I’m actually working on extensions for two other rifles...and have found my rasps are...wanting. I should buy a better one. For the Krag, I’m buying a rough piece, and thank you for the info on where to attach it. I’ve actually sourced all the missing parts from 3 online sources, except the sight (and the handguard clips).
I was fortunate enough earlier this week to win an auction for a vintage Pacific Sight Co receiver sight that attaches using a replacement for the magazine cutoff pin (no drilling!). The lot included some “extra Krag parts,” which photos showed a complete 1901 sight, screws, and front sight blade. Quite the combination! Next orders will be going out in a week or so, and then the work begins in earnest.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

Handguard clips may be available as replicas from S&S Firearms in NY, as well as rivets.

Drilling hand guards and riveting the clips to them is a task I never tackled. You would almost need a jig of some sort to get it right, as it's a pretty precision operation. Used hand guards are sometimes for sale on e-bay at horrible prices, but there used to be a seller who made all of the different hand guard versions and sold them with the clips installed. I purchased several, and all were very good, well made, good fits. I don't know if that seller is still in business, as I've been out of business myself for about 8 years. He didn't advertise all the time, seemed to come and go on the site, so maybe you could get lucky, or a Google might turn him up. However, others are more skilled than I in many areas, and maybe you're up to the drill and rivet job.

It sounds like maybe you've found the sight you want, but if not perhaps I can help if I know which sight you want. I also have some screws.

DG

[ulav8r]

...and have found my rasps are...wanting. I should buy a better one.
.

Not knowing the rasp you have, this suggestion may not help, but I recently got some "files" from Harbor Freight that are useless as files but do a pretty good working wood. There was a set of 5 or 6 with yellow plastic handles molded on them. They are much too rough to use on metal but are much smoother than a rasp I have owned for 40 years or more.

[TheAbe]

One other concern I have: do all US Krag stocks have finger grooves? When I first got this rifle, I noticed the barrel band seemed a bit loose and wasn’t in the correct apparent position. Now that I’m looking at other rifles, I’ve noticed mine does not have finger grooves, and I’m concerned that when sporterized, the forend was not only shortened, but also thinned and tapered to the extent that barrel bands will no longer fit, and an extension piece will not fit the stock properly. I might need a different stock altogether to get this one back to as-issued. If that’s the case, I’ll bide my time, but the remainder of the parts now, and attempt to get this one firing well as a sporter, and just buy a stock/handguard set at a later time.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

All had grooves.

DG

[TheAbe]

Well...then I need a different stock, even a sporterized one...

[TheAbe]

Thanks to a trade for some parts with a most helpful member here, my Krag has progressed to the next stage: live fire testing. Or rather, it’s ready for the next stage. One thing has become apparent though, way too much wood was removed from the stock to be able to restore without gluing wood bits back on to even the forend that remains. Note the gap between the barrel band and the stock, having it at the position it is supposed to sit or nearer.
Any ideas on “thickening” the forend?

[Der Gebirgsjager]

Definitely a new/used replacement stock. Admittedly, not an inexpensive or easy thing to acquire now days, unless you just happen to luck into a good deal. Used to be that Boyd's made new replacements. Sometimes original takeoffs can be found on e-bay for outrageous prices. There are smaller than Boyd's manufacturers that can sometimes be found with an internet search. Having some stock making adventures under my belt in past years I'll offer the opinion that I'd rather start with a blank and make a stock rather than try to salvage what you've got in the photos. Sometimes some things require time and patience for a project to come all together, and this is likely to be one of them. Check all of the well known parts houses and dealers, e-bay, the internet, auctions, and keep checking back periodically. Something will likely eventually turn up.

DG

[TheAbe]

Here is my intermediate (and perhaps permanent) fix to get the barrel band secured.

Not pretty, but it works, and it was cheap/I got experience out of making it. I also fashioned a pin for the front sight blade out of a nail, and so this will be coming with me to the range next Wednesday. I’ll share how it shoots.

Also, Hodgdon just updated their reloading data center to include several loads for 30-40 Krag using some of their newer powders (Ramshot Hunter, TAC, Big Game, X-Terminator, StaBall 6.5, and I think StaBall HD. I emailed them for some 220gr RN loads using StaBall, but just that they have brand new data for 30-40 Krag (with pressure in CUP) implies that they found a test apparatus for that cartridge (likely in a Remington storage room). I’m excited! I loaded up some CB’s and 180gr RN’s for the first tests wirh StaBall 6.5...

[smkummer]

Krags can have oversized bores. If you haven’t slugged your bore, start with at least. .311 cast bullet.

[TheAbe]

I should have posted the results from last weeks tests: the rifle held together, though the band slipped a bit. However, most shots keyholed including cast and jacketed. This one is probably going to be shelved for a bit while I clean up my new M95 straight pull (with what looks like a pristine bore, now that I cleaned all the cosmoline out of it), my M1842, and the forend restoration of my Carcano long rifle. I will check for .311’s at my next opportunity though. I currently have .309’s as one of the loadings that had...mediocre success. I also plan on getting some bore slugging metal next time I’m at one of my lgs’s that carries it at a good price.

[quack1]

You can slug a bore with a lead egg sinker. Just use one a little bigger than .30 caliber. Being in Minnesota, I'd think fishing equipment should be easy to come by.

[TheAbe]

As easy as my fishing tackle box. Not that I fish, it’s just a requirement for living here having a tackle box.

[TheAbe]

Ok, as part of my spring break trio, I received the repair piece for this Krag on Monday, and today I attached it. It’ll never be “original” without a new stock, but personally I think it looks better with the full length and proper bands. The band with the sling swivel is properly snug now, and I fitted a M1907 sling to it to see how it holds. The hold is actually quite nice.
Second photo shows just how much was shaved off the original stock end. Now to finish the new bit...