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Thread: Is there a 9mm "roll crimp die" out there?

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    Is there a 9mm "roll crimp die" out there?

    Experimenting with lead bullets in a 9mm revolver and was wondering if there might be a 9mm roll crimp die out there somewhere?

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    its called a factory crimp die and lee makes them, only way i found to use lead in a 9mm with out the bulge.
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    delete post
    Last edited by redriverhunter; 10-29-2023 at 08:05 PM.

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    Lyman 9mm dies have a roll crimp.

    https://www.lymanproducts.com/amfile...37/product/36/

    (Two-Die Sets, Three-Die Sets, and Four-Die Sets)
    Figure 3 shows cutaway views of Bullet Seating Dies. This die can be
    identified by the “SEAT” stamped between the knurled top and threaded shank of the die. Note that the cartridge does not entirely enter this
    die. Lyman seating dies incorporate a built-in roll-crimping shoulder
    which may, or may not
    , be used depending upon the reloader’s preference. The cartridge case in the illustration is shown in the non-crimp
    position. Do not roll-crimp rimless auto-loading cartridges such as 45
    ACP, 9mm Luger, and 380 ACP. These cartridges headspace on the
    case mouth and should be taper-crimped
    .
    Last edited by M-Tecs; 10-29-2023 at 08:04 PM.
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    Mk42gunner's Avatar
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    After all the hullabalu about the short lived 9mm Federal (aka 9mm rimmed) fitting in .38 S&W chambers, you might try a .38 S&W seating die. It might be too large in diameter, I have never tried it.

    Another option would be to shorten a .38 Special crimp die.

    Robert

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    If you aren't using moon clips, what's it going to headspace on?
    Got a .22 .30 .32 .357 .38 .40 .41 .44 .45 .480 or .500 S&W cylinder that needs throats honed? 9mm, 10mm/40S&W, 45 ACP pistol barrel that won't "plunk" your handloads? 480 Ruger or 475 Linebaugh cylinder that needs the "step" reamed to 6° 30min chamfer? Click here to send me a PM You can also find me on Facebook Click Here.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mk42gunner View Post
    Another option would be to shorten a .38 Special crimp die.

    Robert
    I like that option Thanks

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by DougGuy View Post
    If you aren't using moon clips, what's it going to headspace on?
    Moon Clips

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    All the 9mm & .45ACP dies I've ever had were roll crimped with the seating die.
    You had to buy the taper crimp die separately.

    If you're going to use a regular roll crimp, be sure to sort/trim your cases.
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    Quote Originally Posted by 8shot View Post
    Experimenting with lead bullets in a 9mm revolver and was wondering if there might be a 9mm roll crimp die out there somewhere?
    Ok, what issues are you having with your current loads? Like Winger said, you should be able to adjust the boolit seating die body down far enough to remove the flare at the case mouth left by the powder die, if you keep adjusting it down the die body will roll the case mouth inward and this is what we always called a roll crimp. There wasn't any special die for it outside of the boolit seating die.

    And there's other experimental options, like boring out a different die so the 9mm case will fit up into the die body and you could use the roll part of the die to crimp with. A die meant for a rimmed case *might* have a different crimp profile than a die meant for a straight walled case that headspaces on the case mouth, that you just adjust down until it roll crimps.

    And if you're REALLY into modding things, take a collet style factory crimp die for 357 magnum, bore out the collet (if the 9mm case doesn't already go far enough) to accept the 9mm case, (and you probably have to make a spacer to sit under the 9mm case) but get the case mouth up into the crimp band about .050" then remove the collet and shorten the NOSE of the collet until it is even with the case mouth, narrowing the crimp band and putting all of the crimp on the case, where it should be. NOW you get to experiment with seeing how the collet crimp works out, it's generally VERY consistent because this crimp doesn't vary with case length like a roll crimp will, I use modded collet crimp dies in a bunch of the stuff I load.

    So, how adventuresome are you? Here's a thread showing the modded collet crimp for a 45 Colt, you'd have a bunch of work to do adapting this idea to 9mm/357 magnum dies but you'd likely have the only collet crimp die ever made for 9mm Luger. https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...=1#post2239315
    Last edited by DougGuy; 10-29-2023 at 10:07 PM.
    Got a .22 .30 .32 .357 .38 .40 .41 .44 .45 .480 or .500 S&W cylinder that needs throats honed? 9mm, 10mm/40S&W, 45 ACP pistol barrel that won't "plunk" your handloads? 480 Ruger or 475 Linebaugh cylinder that needs the "step" reamed to 6° 30min chamfer? Click here to send me a PM You can also find me on Facebook Click Here.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by M-Tecs View Post
    <snipped for brevity>Do not roll-crimp rimless auto-loading cartridges such as 45 ACP, 9mm Luger, and 380 ACP. These cartridges headspace on the case mouth and should be taper-crimped.[/I]
    Back in 1968 when I had my first .45 auto a Colt LW Commander I had the 1969 edition of NRA Handloader's Guide. It spelled out how to do a roll crimp with .45 acp for use in the Colt auto. Using the detached barrel as a seating guide as the cartridge headspaced off of the bullet engaging the rifling, not the case mouth. You seated the bullet to where the case was flush with the barrel hood. That's where you roll crimped it. I don't know how many hundreds of rounds I loaded and fired that way but there was never a problem. I don't recall what dies I had then, probably C-H steel (non-carbide). They were old dies.

    I do taper crimp nowadays. I finally caught up with the 20th century and do things the way I should but that information is still in the old NRA Handloader's Guide. Its still possible to roll crimp .45 acp for the Colt auto.

    But I wouldn't recommend it.

    Shown for reference not argument.

    Last edited by Dutchman; 10-30-2023 at 03:58 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mk42gunner View Post
    After all the hullabalu about the short lived 9mm Federal (aka 9mm rimmed) fitting in .38 S&W chambers, you might try a .38 S&W seating die. It might be too large in diameter, I have never tried it.

    Another option would be to shorten a .38 Special crimp die.

    Robert
    Robert

    I did just that, took an old Lyman 38/357 roll crimp die and shortened it via lathe. Now have a great 9mm roll crimp...did run out of 7/8-14 die threads to lock the die...but that's an easy fix using a Lee breach lock bushing and blue lock-tite.

    The other good news is I just ordered a Lee 91181 9mm Bullet Seating Die that does a 9MM roll crimp: Here is their description:

    There are two crimp shoulders in this Bullet Seating Die. The first shoulder applies a slight taper crimp and the second shoulder applies a full roll crimp. The closer the die is adjusted to the shell holder the heavier the crimp will be.

    I'll be testing both my fab'd 9mm roll crimp and the Lee 2 stage roll crimp die.

    https://leeprecision.com/bul-seat-die-9mm-lug

  14. #14
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    Glad to hear that my cheapskate idea worked. Also nice to read that there is a valid reason to use the various breech lock bushings.

    I tend to accumulate orphan dies for modification instead of buying high dollar custom dies just to test an idea.

    Robert

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