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Thread: Lee Pro 4-20 Casting Pot, would you recommend?

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    Lee Pro 4-20 Casting Pot, would you recommend?

    I am considering Lee Pro 4-20 Casting Pot, for revolver bullets only; from 357-158 to 45-300. When I checked prices of this pot, and RCBS and Lyman ones, Lee costs about 4 times less than other two. I found on internet that Lee temperature control is not as good as on RCBS and Lyman, but friend, who is big time in casting told me that this is not critical on larger diameter, stubby bullets for handguns, as it could be problem for long bullets with smaller dia for rifles.

    When taking in account what Lee offers, its price and bullets I am going to cast, would you recommend it? Thanks!

  2. #2
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    HATCH's Avatar
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    I would recommend it and also recommend getting a PID controller for it.
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  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    Like anything you get what you pay for. My first pot was a Lee 10lb production pot that I cast 9mm, 38, 44, 45 and 45/70 bullets for years with and still have. I now have two 4-20 pots that I use a PID that I built for under $50.00. Still cheaper than RCBS or Lyman.
    Many cast with a Lee pot as is and have no issues as I did for years as well but having a PID makes casting so much better for me.
    If money is no issue then getting a RCBS or Lyman would be a choice you need to make.

  4. #4
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    Slugster's Avatar
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    Hi Onty. I have a Lee 4-20 pot and a PID controller setup. I would recommend this setup if you are cash conscious as I am. (Retired). The Lee pot worked well for years without any extra temp control, but when I started casting long rifle bullets, my weights/diameters became inconsistent. Purchased one of Hatches great PID controllers and have never looked back. Keeps the molten lead at 1 degree above or below set point. Zero disappointments!
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  5. #5
    Boolit Master Targa's Avatar
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    The Lee pots are good to go. I don’t have a PID which would make temp control nice, I just use a lead thermometer I got from Rotometal’s that has served me well.

  6. #6
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    Mk42gunner's Avatar
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    The Lee 4-20 may be the biggest bargain in the casting world.

    While you may find a PID helpful, I don't think they are absolutely necessary. Same with a thermometer.

    I will say that I bought my 4-20 brand new, then looked for a few years for an RCBS Promelt at an estate sale. Is the Promelt nicer than the 4-20? Yes, but not enough to offset the difference in retail pricing for a new one.

    Robert

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    I've been using the LEE 10 pound pot for several years now. It has never let me down, but I have learned a few tricks along the way to make the experience less stressful. Scraping the sides occasionally with a butter knife, and then skimming off the crud that comes to the top will eliminate a good portion of the dripping.

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy
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    Thank you all! So many replies in such short time.

    In preparation for casting, I recently purchased used 4 stainless pots, about 2 liters (4.2 pints) each. I will use them for melting lube and also for premelting lead and skimming/fluxing it, to make it as clean as possible, before dropping lead in casting pot. Apparently, this will considerably reduce crude. Also, I found that some folks put additional weight on lever to prevent dripping. I am still learning...

  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy
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    Regarding PID controler, any information, list of parts, picture and drawing will help a lot!

  10. #10
    Boolit Master Maven's Avatar
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    FWIW, The president of the Cast Bullet Association, John Alexander, uses a Lee furnace.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    My casting mentor recommended the 4-20 to me and I still use it, though now in a tandem setup as a feeder pot on top of an RCBS.

    One thing you’ll find out fast: its practical capacity is really 16-17#, not 20. Most manufacturers’ claimed capacity isn’t realistic (who wants 20# of molten lead literally brimming, ready to spill if you so much as sneeze?), but I have the sense that Lee’s practical capacity is less than others (at least my old RCBS holds 2+ pounds more). This matters mainly if your trying to mix up alloy in the pot and overestimate how much it will hold, but otherwise just means more frequent recharging with fresh ingots while casting.

  12. #12
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    JonB_in_Glencoe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Onty View Post
    SNIP>>>

    I found on internet that Lee temperature control is not as good as on RCBS and Lyman,
    Keep looking on the internet, you'll find many complaints about the current production of RCBS and Lyman pots, as they both use a PID controller which is mounted in the housing that the pot is in. There are many problems with that, as electronics don't play well with that much heat.

    I think Lee is the better choice, no matter the price. Now if you can find a older RCBS and Lyman pot (without the PID) in good condition, that might be better than a New Lee.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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  13. #13
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    TNsailorman's Avatar
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    I used a Lee 4-20 for some years and did not have a PID as I didn't know what the heck a PID was at the time. It dripped a little, but I didn't consider that to be much of a problem, I just picked the drips up after they solidified and put them back into the pot. I liked my 4-20 and could really only say good things about it. my experience anyway, james

  14. #14
    Boolit Buddy 1eyedjack's Avatar
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    Have 4-20 as well as my old 10 lb lee pot. Both have served me well without breaking the bank. I did add a PID to the 20 lb unit much more consistent temperatures. Yes it sometimes drips and I have made some modifications such as a mold rest for consistent distance from the spout as well as reducing fatigue. Clean alloy and cleaning the pot solves most problems.
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  15. #15
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    I'm probably alone here, but I went with the new RCBS ProMelt II with the digital readout temp controller. I was just about to order a lee pot for the same reason as most...cost. Now that I own the RCBS, I am so glad I skipped the lee pot, bought me a $5 camping stove, some scrapped cast iron pots and laddle. I practiced smelting and casting with this equipment until I felt it was time to order the RCBS. It works amazing! Zero issues with leaks, heats up really fast, retains heat well...no problems at all with the electronics being close to the element plus there warranty is awesome. I start with clean lead, halfway through I flux, and continue pouring no problems. I just crank mine up to 850 and go, throw in the sprues in, drops to 830-835, but quickly gets back to temp. I don't bother with adjusting the temps...I work my molds to give me my desired effect. Some molds I crack open immediately, others I give a 10 second countdown. I too wanted an original Pro Melt but I don't believe I am missing out on anything by having this RCBS. I do, however, use my gasoline run camp stove and cast ladle with about 2-3 pounds of lead about 90 percent of the time because I may only be needing to make 50 or so bullets or I am testing out a new mold and only want to see what it does. One thing with the new RCBS is that the manufacturer recommends you don't shut the furnace off until the temp gets down to 160° which could be a little inconvenient if you gotta go right away. I don't start any casting unless I know for a fact I won't be going anywhere anytime soon and will be right there with my equipment to avoid any accidents. Knowing that my RCBS is all factory equipment gives me a little more reassurance and confidence then if I attempted to piece one together myself
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  16. #16
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    Walter Laich's Avatar
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    check the 'stickies' above on this section--plenty of info on PIDs

    I built my own, mostly for the enjoyment--easy to do, just take your time

    Hatch sells them ready-made if you're in a hurry to get a good one
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  17. #17
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by walter laich View Post
    check the 'stickies' above on this section--plenty of info on pids

    i built my own, mostly for the enjoyment--easy to do, just take your time

    hatch sells them ready-made if you're in a hurry to get a good one
    thanks!!!

  18. #18
    Boolit Buddy muskeg13's Avatar
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    I've been using the same Lee Magnum Melter Furnace that I bought over 30 years ago and only had to replace the rotary thermostat about 3 years ago. Parts are available from both Lee and Midway. This is the same basic pot as the Pro 4-20 without the prone-to-leak "convenient" bottom pour feature. It's for ladle casting only. I had a bottom leaker 4-20 for 18 years prior to switching to ladle casting. I have a couple of casting thermometers that I occasionally use, but haven't really needed them.

    I can't see paying 2-5X more for a prone to fail Made in China RCBS or Lyman furnace. Sometimes simpler is better. The only drawback I've experienced is that you have to work quickly or use 2 ladles full when pouring into 6-cavity molds on large calibers.

  19. #19
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    Finster101's Avatar
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    Nothing wrong with the Lee pot at all. If I had to buy a new one that would be my choice.

  20. #20
    Boolit Mold Kentucky146's Avatar
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    Had I known then I would not, I would have just got the 4-20 pot similar to my 4 pound pot by lee. Nothing against the bottom pour it is a God send but also a headache, The simple pots the temps are easier to control no PID needed. Just my take on the electric pots

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check