RepackboxWidenersInline FabricationTitan Reloading
Reloading EverythingSnyders JerkyRotoMetals2Lee Precision
MidSouth Shooters Supply Load Data
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 21 to 25 of 25

Thread: Light rust on bullet mold

  1. #21
    Boolit Grand Master uscra112's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Switzerland of Ohio
    Posts
    6,337
    Denim would work. The oldtimers used burlap from feed bags. I used a kitchen scrubby-sponge saturated with the thin version of Corrosion-X until I found that Big 45 stuff. Still do use the sponge as a follow-up, but now have a can of G96.

    Remembering that the stuff they used in "hot tank" parts cleaners in my youth had creasylic acid in it. Every automotive machine shop stank of the stuff, as did the machinists. But I do recall that an iron head soaked in the tank for a few hours had lost any rust it might have had, along with all the baked-on grime, when it came out. It must have been related to the original Gunk formula, because they hosed down the parts with water after the soaking. EPA would have a conniption fit today,
    Cognitive Dissident

  2. #22
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Mar 2021
    Location
    Missouri ridge runner
    Posts
    59
    The "CLR" idea worked perfect
    Thanks for the help

  3. #23
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jul 2023
    Posts
    125
    Naval Jelly rust remover/converter, but it will remove bluing...just take your time and season your molds after. Like with any product, start small and do a sample test of an area where it's not so obvious in case the results are unsatisfactory. If the molds have scale, you will most likely be left with some pitting regardless of what you use. Try different methods, cast some bullets in between and see which gives you the best results. We use naval jelly on farm equipment but we are not concerned about pitting though.

  4. #24
    Boolit Buddy atfsux's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    180
    Quote Originally Posted by SteveM54 View Post
    The "CLR" idea worked perfect
    Thanks for the help
    Happy you are happy.
    When democracy becomes tyranny, those of us with rifles still get to vote.

  5. #25
    Boolit Buddy MaLar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Free state of Idaho
    Posts
    462
    I just cleaned up a mold that was rusted looked worse than it was. I used citric acid in warm water and a tooth brush. Soaked the mold for a while and brushed of most of the rust. Soaked a little longer and it cleaned right up. dried it off and ran it over a torch to get all the water out. Now i need to try it.
    it's a Dixie gun works round ball mold sized .542".
    Those who choose violence as a first option are typically confronted by somebody else using violence as a last resort.

    Live a good, honorable life. Then when you get older and think back, you’ll enjoy it a second time.

    Do not confuse my being polite for weakness.
    Using MX Linux 21


    From the free state of Idaho

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check