slugging 1892 barrel

[mvintx]

I am anxiously awaiting my 1892 SRC with a new barrel from John Taylor. Before I settle on which boolit and mould to purchase I need some guidance on the best way to slug the barrel. I've slugged many pistol barrels but never a rifle. The buttstock is cracked and in pretty sad shape...I imagine it should be replaced before the slugging process. Any advice would be appreciated.

[RickinTN]

Load the biggest (fattest) bullet that will chamber and never look back. Save yourself a lot of trouble. No need in banging on the old girl!
Good Luck,
Rick

[freakonaleash]

Use a round ball for muzzloaders that is a little over size. Just tap it through, no beating required.

[Bent Ramrod]

I use a muzzleloader round ball of diameter “there or thereabouts.” If it is slightly too small, I put it on my anvil vise and tap it lightly to flatten and expand it to a size slightly in excess of estimated groove diameter.

I hold the rifle upright in a padded vise with the action open and a cloth on the floor to cushion the buttplate and catch the slug unmarred. I run an oiled patch down the barrel and then put the ball on the crown.

A couple light taps with a slightly undersized aluminum or brass rod gets the ball into the rifling, with a ring of lead cut off the outer edge. I push or tap the rod until the ball is an inch or so down into the barrel.

I get a cleaning rod of the proper diameter with a flat end and push the ball through the bore. I use as light a pressure as I can, in order to feel for possible tight and loose spots. When the ball exits the breech, I measure groove diameter across each “land” on the ball and average them. They should be within a half-thousandths of each other or there is something off with the barrel.

Variations on this method can be driving the ball back out from the breech end when it is an inch or so down the barrel and comparing the diameter to a slug pushed all the way through. Some barrels get a blunderbuss end on them from careless cleaning from the muzzle. Or you can take the bolt out and do the same on the breech end, to check the leade diameter.

Generally I don’t go to this trouble with a new manufactured barrel (or any barrel, for that matter), unless there is a problem in getting it to shoot. Or if there is a question about old vs new barrel standards, like the .38 and .40 rifle diameters.

But, anyway, that’s how I do it. HTH.

[mvintx]

I use a muzzleloader round ball of diameter “there or thereabouts.” If it is slightly too small, I put it on my anvil vise and tap it lightly to flatten and expand it to a size slightly in excess of estimated groove diameter.

I hold the rifle upright in a padded vise with the action open and a cloth on the floor to cushion the buttplate and catch the slug unmarred. I run an oiled patch down the barrel and then put the ball on the crown.

A couple light taps with a slightly undersized aluminum or brass rod gets the ball into the rifling, with a ring of lead cut off the outer edge. I push or tap the rod until the ball is an inch or so down into the barrel.

I get a cleaning rod of the proper diameter with a flat end and push the ball through the bore. I use as light a pressure as I can, in order to feel for possible tight and loose spots. When the ball exits the breech, I measure groove diameter across each “land” on the ball and average them. They should be within a half-thousandths of each other or there is something off with the barrel.

Variations on this method can be driving the ball back out from the breech end when it is an inch or so down the barrel and comparing the diameter to a slug pushed all the way through. Some barrels get a blunderbuss end on them from careless cleaning from the muzzle. Or you can take the bolt out and do the same on the breech end, to check the leade diameter.

Generally I don’t go to this trouble with a new manufactured barrel (or any barrel, for that matter), unless there is a problem in getting it to shoot. Or if there is a question about old vs new barrel standards, like the .38 and .40 rifle diameters.

But, anyway, that’s how I do it. HTH.

It is a new 44-40 barrel so there's no telling what the diameter is. But I like your technique.

[gwpercle]

Cracked stocks can be repaired and in my opinion , would be preferable to a brand spanking new butt stock .
Do a search on "repairing Cracked rifle stock " and watch a few video's ... all I have are Gunsmithing Books . New clear epoxies can do a great job of repairing .
I fixed (epoxied) a Ruger 10/22 walnut stock that cracked in the wrist ... walnut was too nice to not save ... that epoxy repair has held now for 39 years, was my only 22 Rifle to hunt with and taught two kids to shoot with it and they used it untill they were old enough to buy there own .
Also repaired several Military Rifle stocks with Clear Epoxy ...
Note - use slow cure epoxy , it develops a much stronger bond than fast cure stuff .
I used bell fishing sinkers to slug my barrels ... they are pointy on the small end and round and fat on the large end ... grease bbl and sinker and they start easy and the fat end fill the bore ... get an assortment of sizes ... if you can still get lead sinkers in your state !!! Louisiana still allows lead sinkers and fishing ... for the moment .
Gary

[mvintx]

A piece of the stock is missing, I'm going to have to replace it. Thanks for your idea about repairing it though. I posted pictures of it early this year but I can't find the thread.

Found it...here's the pic;[IMG][/IMG]