Nitride v. SS CVA Optima V.2 - worth the added cost?

[huntinlever]

When I can swing it, getting set up on the Optima 2. Midway has the black stock/SS barrel at $309, and the camo stock/Nitride barrel at $370. Don't care a bit about a camo stock, which I know is an "upsell," but the nitride barrel v. ss also brings the price up. What's the benefit of a nitride barrel? Worth the added cost?

[Wheelguns 1961]

I have a ss barrel with a camo stock. I have had no problems so far. A year or so ago, they cchanged the ramrods for the worst. Mine has threads on both ends. The new ones only have them on one end.

[huntinlever]

I have a ss barrel with a camo stock. I have had no problems so far. A year or so ago, they cchanged the ramrods for the worst. Mine has threads on both ends. The new ones only have them on one end.

Thanks on both counts. I was thinking of getting a 30" palm saver rod, along with the knuckle saver bullet starter.

[NSB]

I believe their Nitride barrels are SS under the coating. If that’s the case, the Nitride does nothing but add a different color. No benefit that I can think of. I bought one of these guns last year on a “whim”. I already had a very accurate TC Encore which shot about as well as you could hope for (last deer shot with it was a measured 159 yards). I was out at our local range watching a couple of guys shooting their brand new/first time out CVA in-lines and they were both getting five shot groups under two inches at 100 yards. After talking to one of them, I ordered on on the spot to play around with. I got a stainless/camo one that was on sale and three days later I had it out on the range. I’m getting five shots in 1.5 moa with regularity. I paid about three-fifty for the gun IIRC. I only added a SpinJag ramrod to it and a decent scope. I have less into the entire gun that I had into my TC Encore barrel. Best part is, I no longer have to swap barrels on my Encore. I don’t think it matters which model you get, they all shoot good and have very, very good triggers right out of the box.

[Wheelguns 1961]

Thanks on both counts. I was thinking of getting a 30" palm saver rod, along with the knuckle saver bullet starter.

By putting threads on only one end, they basically eliminated the palm saver. To clear the barrel, now you must unscrew the palm saver, and screw on a jag to lengthen the ramrod. So instead of a palm saver ramrod, you now have a sharp dangerous ramrod. Mine has threads on both ends, but we bought my BIL one for Christmas last year, and it only has threads on one end. There is a company that makes custom ramrods, and I think that is the way to go.http://https://www.spinjag.com/index.php

[huntinlever]

I believe their Nitride barrels are SS under the coating. If that’s the case, the Nitride does nothing but add a different color. No benefit that I can think of. I bought one of these guns last year on a “whim”. I already had a very accurate TC Encore which shot about as well as you could hope for (last deer shot with it was a measured 159 yards). I was out at our local range watching a couple of guys shooting their brand new/first time out CVA in-lines and they were both getting five shot groups under two inches at 100 yards. After talking to one of them, I ordered on on the spot to play around with. I got a stainless/camo one that was on sale and three days later I had it out on the range. I’m getting five shots in 1.5 moa with regularity. I paid about three-fifty for the gun IIRC. I only added a SpinJag ramrod to it and a decent scope. I have less into the entire gun that I had into my TC Encore. Best part is, I no longer have to swap barrels on my Encore. I don’t think it matters which model you get, they all shoot good and have very, very good triggers right out of the box.

Awesome, perfect. Thanks.

[huntinlever]

By putting threads on only one end, they basically eliminated the palm saver. To clear the barrel, now you must unscrew the palm saver, and screw on a jag to lengthen the ramrod. So instead of a palm saver ramrod, you now have a sharp dangerous ramrod. Mine has threads on both ends, but we bought my BIL one for Christmas last year, and it only has threads on one end. There is a company that makes custom ramrods, and I think that is the way to go.http://https://www.spinjag.com/index.php

Gotcha, thanks. I've got the spinjag jag, V.2 ramrod and starter on the cart.

[Andy45]

IMO, I would go with the nitride barrel for two reasons. The first reason is it makes the underlying stainless steel more corrosion resistant. The second and more important reason it that it makes the stainless steel a lot harder and wear resistant. A lot of AR-15 barrel makers now offer nitrided barrels for this reason instead of chrome-lined bores.

Being someone that unknowingly ruined the bores of two fine TC muzzleoaders (both with SS barrels) with wear from a flexible hard fiberglass ramrod even though it has decent bore guide to protect muzzles, I think the extra investment for nitriding is worthwhile. (Yes, I am still really annoyed this happened! LOL)

I apologize in advance if this sounds preachy.

Andy

[RickinTN]

I believe their Nitride barrels are SS under the coating. If that’s the case, the Nitride does nothing but add a different color. No benefit that I can think of. I bought one of these guns last year on a “whim”. I already had a very accurate TC Encore which shot about as well as you could hope for (last deer shot with it was a measured 159 yards). I was out at our local range watching a couple of guys shooting their brand new/first time out CVA in-lines and they were both getting five shot groups under two inches at 100 yards. After talking to one of them, I ordered on on the spot to play around with. I got a stainless/camo one that was on sale and three days later I had it out on the range. I’m getting five shots in 1.5 moa with regularity. I paid about three-fifty for the gun IIRC. I only added a SpinJag ramrod to it and a decent scope. I have less into the entire gun that I had into my TC Encore barrel. Best part is, I no longer have to swap barrels on my Encore. I don’t think it matters which model you get, they all shoot good and have very, very good triggers right out of the box.

I bought a Black/stainless a couple of years ago and I haven't fired it. Maybe soon for this fall. What are you shooting for projectiles? I have a little of most everything a person could hope for but curious what is working for you and others?
Thanks,
Rick

[NSB]

Barnes T-Ez 290g (bullet with supplied sabot). I tried quite a few different bullets and sabots but nothing shot any better than this combo.

[T.R.]

CVA Optima is a keeper! - TR

[huntinlever]

Thanks for the input, guys. I think I'm going to hold out for a nitride barrel, on backorder right now. Intend the Barnes 290, BH 209 (both available at LGS), and for now, Fed 209A. Probably looking at spinjag starter and ramrod, and a good scope that matches the gun well.

Which brings up a question I've been thinking on, actually. And it's probably no different than the countless threads on "open/aperture sights for old guys," mine included. But I sure would like to western hunt, with its regs on open sights. I found that with simple low power readers both my gg 45-70 and my son's 336, I could shoot well but only up to about 50 yards. Anything different with an open/peep setup to think about on this MZ? Also, would you recommend patched ball, for these states?

[NSB]

Patched round balls will cut your range in half. They simply aren’t in the same league as a monolithic copper bullet at fifty more percent velocity. Nothing wrong with using them, I’ve killed dozens of deer with patched round balls using side lock front loaders. It’s just that they really aren’t the same thing as an in-line. Open sights themselves aren’t a show stopper. I use them out to a couple of hundred yards by using something like an MVA tang sight and glove front with different inserts. For shooting larger animals, you aren’t hindered if you know the distance and your ballistics. There isn’t much over-lap between in-lines using sabots/monolithic and patched round balls. Their only similarity is being loaded from the front.

[huntinlever]

Patched round balls will cut your range in half. They simply aren’t in the same league as a monolithic copper bullet at fifty more percent velocity. Nothing wrong with using them, I’ve killed dozens of deer with patched round balls using side lock front loaders. It’s just that they really aren’t the same thing as an in-line. Open sights themselves aren’t a show stopper. I use them out to a couple of hundred yards by using something like an MVA tang sight and glove front with different inserts. For shooting larger animals, you aren’t hindered if you know the distance and your ballistics. There isn’t much over-lap between in-lines using sabots/monolithic and patched round balls. Their only similarity is being loaded from the front.

Thanks. Now I'm wondering if I'm conflating it with some PA and/or western sites/threads I've been reading. Or it might have been the PA flintlock episode on Meateater that I just watched.

Edit: I'm thinking MT.

[vonb]

I have the nitride version and it does offer enhanced corrosion resistance over just stainless. If it’s still the case, I believe CVA offered lifetime warranty on the nitride barrel from corrosion. 100 gr of 777 and a Hornady XTP .452 250 gr bullet will cut holes at 100 yards.

[Rockhill]

Fleet Farm has the Optima V2, .50 cal, with Edge camo and a nitride barrel, on sale right now for 299.99. Might be an option if you have a store in your vicinity. A few bucks cheaper than some online sellers will charge for it, too.

[NSB]

You don’t need an FFL to ship these. Fleet Farm probably will ship it.