Load DataTitan ReloadingRepackboxLee Precision
Inline FabricationMidSouth Shooters SupplyReloading EverythingSnyders Jerky
Wideners RotoMetals2
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 21 to 31 of 31

Thread: 6.5-55

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Indian trail NC
    Posts
    799
    ohh boy here we go

  2. #22
    Boolit Master Rapier's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Location
    NW Florida
    Posts
    1,485
    It is best to use the correct base and rim diameter at all times, if avalible. However, if you have cartridges of the correct length or longer with a standard base and rim diameter .473 being "standard" in the US, you can trim to length and then fire form the cartridges, expanding the web area, then neck size only. Then as long as the rifle's extractor functions correctly, 99% of the time you can make do, with those standard base cartridge conversions in that one rifle that the cartridges are fire formed in. This process has long been used, since the 1940s with the type 99 Japanse rifle in 7.7 Japanese and the 94, 38 and 96 Swedes in 6.5x55 Swede. Without any ill effect, especially with cast bullets.
    Is it recommended, no, but that cartridge conversion is possible and it does work. Owning both rifles types, Swedes and Japanese, I have converted standard head/rim brass for both, many times and for various reasons, the least of which has been a lack of funds or education.

    This is my new, in process, 96/358 Win conversion. A new, never mounted, 1943 M-96 Husky 6.5x55 action with a new 1-4 SS 358 Win barrel mounted. Interesting is that the bolt face with the extractor holds a loaded cartridge at 90 degrees, not just at 45-60 degrees as is the normal Mauser bolt face test of a properly functioning extractor. No opinion, a fact.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_0602.jpg  
    “There is a remedy for all things, save death.“
    Cervantes

    “Never give up, never quit.”
    Robert Rogers
    Roger’s Rangers

    There are three kinds of men. The one that learns by reading. The few who learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves.
    Will Rogers

  3. #23
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    'Bout a hundred miles from the Gulf of Mexico
    Posts
    1,159
    “Is it recommended, no,but that cartridge conversion is possible and it does work”. 100% it works!!
    Being frugal, conservative, whatever you want to call it, I have done this conversion before! And, I had a full time job back then also. But, there were no brass to be found,( I have “correct” brass now)and I wanted to shoot my very inexpensive rifle, at least they were back in the ‘80’s, so, I did the conversion on 6 mm brass and fired it, mostly with all full power loads!!! In fact, I still have some of that brass!!!!!! And, I full length resized every loading. ( every animal I ever shot with the gun, it went down with one shot, don’t know what else you ask for)You do what you have to do in your particular situation. So..............just my opinion. Worth what ya paid for it.

    If we are concerned about another person’s safety, pm that person, offer up some correct brass, alloy, help that person out.
    I firmly believe that you should only get treated by how you act, not by who or what you are!!

  4. #24
    Boolit Master

    Dutchman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Siskiyou County, Calif
    Posts
    2,242
    Quote Originally Posted by Rapier View Post
    <snipped for brevity>Interesting is that the bolt face with the extractor holds a loaded cartridge at 90 degrees, not just at 45-60 degrees as is the normal Mauser bolt face test of a properly functioning extractor. No opinion, a fact.
    Since you referenced extractor clearance for the Swedish Mauser it reminded me of this photo of the gauge for extractor clearance and firing pin protrusion.


  5. #25
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    650
    I picked up one of the sporterized package deals on the M96 back in the mid 90's. I mainly got it for my daughter to have a inexpensive accurate rifle to hunt with and for her first rifle. It only took me about three weeks to realize buying factory ammo wasn't going to work out. Nothing I picked up shot worth a darn.

    I picked up dies, and other necessities and went about working her up a load. This was at the same time the Hornady A-Max hit the market. After speaking with one of their staff for over an hour, and against his better judgment, I went forth loading the 140gr A-Max. This wasn't for long range hunting simply something that would shoot accurately. The chamber in the thing was horrid, I can stand one of the A-max's unseated on top of the case and close the bolt and still have room for the thing to slide back an forth.

    So after several months and close to 75 hogs put down with those bullets ticking along at about 2350fps, she managed one of several very nice bucks with perfect performance. That said they changed the bullet somewhat and it all went out the window.

    I happed across Widener's site one day and they had the Privi ammo on sale. I saw 139gr SP and picked up two boxes. A couple of months later we were out getting ready for deer season and sighting in rifles. I pulled out a box and between my daughter, her then 8yr old son and myself we ran 9 rounds into a combined group of less than a quarter. I was back on the phone with Wideners as soon as I got home, and as luck would have it they still had quite a few boxes out of the same lot so I picked up another 10 boxes.

    I have to say the Privi brass just works. It fits the chamber and doesn't require the sizing stress that other cases I've used have required. We still have several boxes of that same ammo I purchased years ago and we pull it out once in a while and check things it drops them right into the same similarly small groups.
    Later,
    Mike / TX

  6. #26
    Vendor Sponsor
    ammohead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    McGill, NV
    Posts
    1,168
    This may have already been mentioned, but the difference in head diameter really only matters once. From then on they come out of a 6.5x55 size die with the same body diameter as 6.5x55 orig brass. It. Is always best to use properly headstamped brass but sometimes, whether it is availability, or financial reasons you just have to dance with who brung you.

  7. #27
    Boolit Master Rapier's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Location
    NW Florida
    Posts
    1,485
    Oh forgot to mention, the bullet that just works in the Swede is the 140 grain Hornady Interloc SP FB you can push it up, but it shoots just fine at around 2,400 and punches above its weight. Do not worry about bullet jump, the originals were stammered for the 156 RN Cupronickel Nickel bullets and I shoot 85 JHPs at 3,500 into 1/2" so with about a .250 bullet jump they still shoot. The Swede really needs a good trigger and a shooter on the trigger.
    “There is a remedy for all things, save death.“
    Cervantes

    “Never give up, never quit.”
    Robert Rogers
    Roger’s Rangers

    There are three kinds of men. The one that learns by reading. The few who learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves.
    Will Rogers

  8. #28
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    762
    I've a box of 6mm cases the former owner had formed to 6.5x55 and he was a jacketed bullet shooter. Probably not heavy loads and the cases look fine. I'll try them with some cast over the winter.

    If the brass is out there then acquire some, but it's good to have a plan B if you can't get any.

    Read a story about a PT boat captain that got stuck in the Philipines after the Japanese invasion. If you heard what they did to load rifle ammo when there wasn't any it would make you hair stand on end, if those reading it got that far!

  9. #29
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2020
    Location
    Loxahatchee Florida
    Posts
    516
    Do you have a link of instructions how to find that story???? Sounds like something I would enjoy reading.

  10. #30
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Eastern WY
    Posts
    1,970
    One common trick for using brass that is SLIGHTLY under size is to add a wrap or two of cellophane tape around the head (in front of the rim/extractor groove) after trimming and sizing and before firing so the brass is centered in the chamber for the first firing. Before Prvi, this was used with 30-30 brass for the 303 Savage and many different '06 head size brass (8x57,257...) for 6.5x55. Prvi has taken the place of Norma for much of the older military and unusual cartridge brass. The Prvi 303 Savage and 303 British brass has worked well for me.

  11. #31
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    brisbane ,qld,australia
    Posts
    2,154
    Its unwise to be drilling and tapping any original Swedish 94 carbine ............recent sales of up to $4000 for original guns.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check