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Thread: The 40-70 Sharps Straight Challenge

  1. #21
    Boolit Master Randy Bohannon's Avatar
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    Length isn’t the problem, when the brass is stretched the brass is not always going to the length. Somehow the web/primer pocket gets more than it should. One thing I haven’t tried is going through all the brass and separating the brass that chambers without shaving, going to try that now that I’m thinking about it. All of my 40-70 SS brass is “2.5” same as the chamber.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
    Chill Wills's Avatar
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    I have not had time to get out and test this rifle and load since the match on the 5th. Next Saturday is the next chance at a match and maybe a load test day Thursday or Friday. I am excited to test these very hard, very long bullets again.
    Chill Wills

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
    Chill Wills's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Randy Bohannon View Post
    Length isn’t the problem, when the brass is stretched the brass is not always going to the length. Somehow the web/primer pocket gets more than it should. One thing I haven’t tried is going through all the brass and separating the brass that chambers without shaving, going to try that now that I’m thinking about it. All of my 40-70 SS brass is “2.5” same as the chamber.
    This Hornady brass is trimmed to 2.5" after it is FL sized, and once it is fired, shortens to about 2.475".
    I have used it neck sized and short and FL sized and long again with about the same result. So far, I have not had the problem with any of it separating.
    Chill Wills

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
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    I use the Jamison Brass, now unataunuim. 57.5 gr with a David Mos 387 gr bullet is a tack driver when I do my part. My silhouette loads run around 63.5 to 66.0 grs of Swiss with a BACO money 447 gr bullet. All my bullets are cast at 14.5-1.
    A HDPE .060 wad and Fed 210 match primers. Never could get consistent accuracy with pistol primers.

    KW

  5. #25
    Boolit Master Lead pot's Avatar
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    Another option for the .40-70 brass might be the .375 Flanged Magnum (9.5◊75mmR), This brass is used for the double rifles mostly but the base runs a little larger, .010" but think it could be swaged down with a sizing die with the EZ rounded edge trimmed off the bottom and the case pushed in to the rim.
    I was looking for some earlier this summer and found some Hornady for under $10. per 20 but they wanted a $150. minimum order. I also used the 9.3X74R brass.
    I was thinking about using the .375 brass for the .38-50 because the .30-40 Krag is just about none existing anymore.

  6. #26
    Boolit Grand Master Don McDowell's Avatar
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    So do we have tales of woe or cheers of glee over the new bullet this morning.
    Long range rules, the rest drool.

  7. #27
    Boolit Man steveu's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lead pot View Post
    My first 74 Shiloh was the .40-2.5 (70) I shot it for several years and it was a little temperamental when I first got it. Back then I used mostly the Lyman and Saeco as well as the RCBS moulds.
    I had Steve brooks make me a Snover nosed paper patch mould and it started to show me that this rifle and came to an attention we could agree on and I had a few others made by Paul Jones.
    I found the longer that ogive radius got the harder it was keeping a good finish at the Gongs so I went back to the blunter nosed shorter ogive radiuses and this work out good for me.
    One night I got a call from Dave Gullo and he asked me some questions for making PP moulds and I told him what I liked and later Jim called me again and we came up with the design of the 3 in the photo and it turned out to be a very good shooter. Then the 4 on the right I had BA make and the first three shoot very well in the .40-70 with a 1/16 ROT and the .40-65 14 ROT.
    The forth shoots well in the 14 ROT but falters in the 16 at longer ranges.
    Those dimples are where the ogive meats the shank and that is where I hold the patch. For a slower twist I like the ogive farther up front.
    My .40-2.5 I like the .405 Win brass. The wall thickness is just right for the PP. Shoot, clean and reload. They never need a die for the next reload.
    A lot of shooters get their moulds by weight of the bullet. Think length for your ROT and not weight. Your alloy temper will change the weight but not the proper length for the ROT.

    Kurt


    Attachment 317543Attachment 317544
    Kurt, what is the nose profile for the first bullet in the picture on the right?

  8. #28
    Boolit Master Lead pot's Avatar
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    Steve,

    That bullet has a R-10 I think, cant say for sure anymore.
    I favor the blunter nosed ellipticals. Yes they take a point or three more of elevation but they hit nose first

  9. #29
    Boolit Master
    Chill Wills's Avatar
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    40-70SS Challenge 2.0 Match day. 40-70SS Highwall, 13 twist. 461 grain Creedmoor bullet.
    Started on Pigs with light winds and a sunny day. The mirage was thicker than I had ever seen it. By the time we got to Rams the spotter could not even see the hits through the Kowa scope! I was shooting Iron sight and was just trying to center the wavy moving blob as best I could. It was kinda funny in a way. If I hit a ram, Dan, my spotter would say (with irony) you hit it, ...somewhere? It went down. 10 Pigs, 9 Turkeys, 6 Rams and a Chicken. I think the load is working better than anything I have ever tried in it before, and that says a lot! It looks like I still need to make friends with the rifle for offhand. For all of us shooting yesterday, the morning targets, whatever they were, went better than the afternoon. ....Despite the wonderful lunch provided by the Smith family!!! If you every get a chance to shoot at Smithmoor, don't pass it up!
    Chill Wills

  10. #30
    Boolit Master
    Chill Wills's Avatar
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    Here is something you might find interesting. The load is this long 461grn bullet, and 64.5grs of Olde Swissford. That is, half and half of some almost ten year old Swiss I could not make shoot to my liking and some Olde Eynsford that I guess I just didn't know how to make work. Having tried these two powders by themself in the normal way with no luck, out of pure frustration, I mixed two cans of one with two cans of the other, making 4 pounds to work with and developed a very good load for one of my 40-60 Maynard. After receiving this Buffalo Arms bullet this past year, I started load development on the 40-70SS right off with the hybrid Olde Swissford and it seems to be working too, tho more testing is needed. Also being used is a 0.090" LDPE wad to help ease the start of the long nosed bullet. Does it help??? I don't know. I have not tested the load with thinner wads yet.
    Chill Wills

  11. #31
    Boolit Master
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    Stick to the thick wads.

    Kenny Wasserburger

  12. #32
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lead pot View Post
    My first 74 Shiloh was the .40-2.5 (70) I shot it for several years and it was a little temperamental when I first got it. Back then I used mostly the Lyman and Saeco as well as the RCBS moulds.
    I had Steve brooks make me a Snover nosed paper patch mould and it started to show me that this rifle and came to an attention we could agree on and I had a few others made by Paul Jones.
    I found the longer that ogive radius got the harder it was keeping a good finish at the Gongs so I went back to the blunter nosed shorter ogive radiuses and this work out good for me.
    One night I got a call from Dave Gullo and he asked me some questions for making PP moulds and I told him what I liked and later Jim called me again and we came up with the design of the 3 in the photo and it turned out to be a very good shooter. Then the 4 on the right I had BA make and the first three shoot very well in the .40-70 with a 1/16 ROT and the .40-65 14 ROT.
    The forth shoots well in the 14 ROT but falters in the 16 at longer ranges.
    Those dimples are where the ogive meats the shank and that is where I hold the patch. For a slower twist I like the ogive farther up front.
    My .40-2.5 I like the .405 Win brass. The wall thickness is just right for the PP. Shoot, clean and reload. They never need a die for the next reload.
    A lot of shooters get their moulds by weight of the bullet. Think length for your ROT and not weight. Your alloy temper will change the weight but not the proper length for the ROT.

    Kurt


    Attachment 317543Attachment 317544
    Good pictures and good designs the far right looks good so Does #2 and #3.

    Thanks for posting Kurt.

    Kenny Wasserburger

  13. #33
    Boolit Master Lead pot's Avatar
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    Chill I did the very same thing with left over Diamond UGG, Schuetzen, Goes exp and old Dupont of different granulations and it turned out that it would splinter a 200 yard bowling pin hanging on a wire by the time ending the range session.

    Kenny,

    All of those bullets shoot very good in the .40-70 and the other .40-65's I have except the far right one in the group of 4. That bullet will shoot well to the 1023 yard iron on the BIG HILL using the 14 twist with a very tight case necked chamber CPA .40-65. but gets wild in the 16 ROT's at that range.

  14. #34
    Boolit Master Randy Bohannon's Avatar
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    Hereís a 200 yard target I shot a couple of years ago with P.P. Steve Brooks Money Bullet @410grs. I donít remember what brass I used as I didnít write it down but itís as good as anything I have shot in my Shiloh 40-70 SS. I need to see if I can do it again.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails F6A4A65A-479E-49F9-BBE2-E73531D9651D.jpg  

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check