6.5 mauser

[michael.birdsley]

so i believe some one has already put a timney trigger in it. if you look, it has the extra safety on the right side of the receiver towards the rear.


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[Texas by God]

so i believe some one has already put a timney trigger in it. if you look, it has the extra safety on the right side of the receiver towards the rear.


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That’s a bonus right there.


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[samari46]

4/0 steel wool and some CLP will easily remove the rust. I used this on a used Rem 870 12 guage riot gun I bought years back. Luckily no pitting and looks as well as my Rem 870 deerslayer 12 guage I bought over 40 some odd years ago. Use a heavy coat and let it soak into the metal. Then hit it with the steel wool. May have to repeat with a second go around. Frank

[tward]

I got my 2 Swedes for $69 at Woolworth. They are great shooters. Tim

[Scorpion8]

I also have a sporterized Swede. My only issue is the weight, dang they are heavy rifles. But it shoots great and is a keeper. Enjoy that one, and a lil' cleanup and it'll be great.

[garrisonjoe]

I've cleaned up worse surface rust with Kroil and bronze wool. The bronze wool protects the existing blueing much better than even fine steel wool. Kroil lifts the rust better in my experience than most other cleaners.

I've had excellent semi-formal match results with my '96 Swede (year marked 1911) and either cast boolits (kept under 1700 FPS) or jacketed (loaded to '96 pressure limits). Be aware that the mil sights do not adjust for less than 300 yards, so some "hold under" is required with jacketed loads.

good luck, garrisonjoe

[michael.birdsley]

i posted on the swedish mauser facebook group and apparently everyone is jealous. it definitely has the timney trigger in it. i can see the gold trigger house through trigger hole in the stock.

i bought 2 boxes of 140 grain S&B spitzer FMJ’s from midway to shoot and save the brass from. someone on that group also mentioned riggs gun oil and i bought some of that also. they were saying put the riggs on with a rag to help get rid of the rust.

i’ll probably order some die’s within the next 2 weeks. i probably will work up a jacketed load than work on cast load this winter. i’ve got a new noe 308-167-fn mold showing up for the 760 tommrow. kinda wish i would have held off on that now

the older gentlemen i bought the gun from was going to use the $300 to buy his grand son a new deer rifle.


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[Larry Gibson]

I suggest getting the Lee Collet die set [collet die, FL die, seating die and shell holder. NSing with be best for cast bullets and also many jacketed loads giving much longer case life than if FL sizing. Given the taper of the 6.5 case backing a FL die out to "partial resize" doesn't always work well.

Additionally, with the collet die you can adjust it to size the necks giving .002 - .003 neck tension on properly sized .266 - .268 cast bullets. I prefer to use a Lyman M die to flair the case mouth, but the Lee tool works well also.

[nicholst55]

I've cleaned up worse surface rust with Kroil and bronze wool. The bronze wool protects the existing blueing much better than even fine steel wool. Kroil lifts the rust better in my experience than most other cleaners.

I've had excellent semi-formal match results with my '96 Swede (year marked 1911) and either cast boolits (kept under 1700 FPS) or jacketed (loaded to '96 pressure limits). Be aware that the mil sights do not adjust for less than 300 yards, so some "hold under" is required with jacketed loads.

good luck, garrisonjoe

Sarco sells a taller front sight blade just for the Swedes. It's supposed to allow you to zero the rifle at 100 yards.

[michael.birdsley]

I suggest getting the Lee Collet die set [collet die, FL die, seating die and shell holder. NSing with be best for cast bullets and also many jacketed loads giving much longer case life than if FL sizing. Given the taper of the 6.5 case backing a FL die out to "partial resize" doesn't always work well.

Additionally, with the collet die you can adjust it to size the necks giving .002 - .003 neck tension on properly sized .266 - .268 cast bullets. I prefer to use a Lyman M die to flair the case mouth, but the Lee tool works well also.

i was actually thinking about getting the lee collet die for this gun. either that or the redding set and and adding the redding neck sizing die. i’ve never used the lee collet die or redding dies. figured since i hear good things about accuracy with these guns. so I was thinking about splurging for the Lee collet die or the reading dies for this gun.

i’ve been buying the NOE sizers for my lee universal case mouth expandeder.


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[muskeg13]

Sarco sells a taller front sight blade just for the Swedes. It's supposed to allow you to zero the rifle at 100 yards.

Put one on a M94/14, along with a Redfield Series 70 rear sight with a Merit adjustable aperture. This works great for zeroing at shorter ranges. I couldn't obtain enough elevation (actually depression) of the rear sight until I installed the taller Sarco sight to be able to zero at less than end of the 19th century battle ranges.

[Larry Gibson]

The NOE expanders are excellent also. If you are using .266-.268 sized cast then I'd suggest a .264 expander.

[Dante]

I am shooting cast from my Krag rifles. Lyman 266469 mould I believe. Using IMR4895 to provide 1700 fps. At 50 yards I am getting amazing groups. I also am using Lee collet dies.