Best Bore Solvent?

[huntinlever]

I have one, of many, A .308 target rifle, weather I put one round down range or shoot a big match ( 100 + rounds ) it will take me a long while to get all the copper out, I have tried every kind of copper remover, chemical or electrolysis and keep coming back to Bore Teck eliminator. With my .22 free pistol., after a big match, I got sick and it was a couple weeks before I got to cleaning it, heavily leaded, couple of wet swabs of Bore Teck and let soak for about 5 minutes and pushed a dry patch through, leading just fell out. I use Bore Teck on all my guns, competition or hunting, I use #9 on my black powder substitute guns. I have no need for anything else, regardless of the cost, time wise it works for me.... An oil patch with a few dry patches then storage.

OK, thanks for the additional thoughts. So I understand, you only use:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...IVVO8E7Q&psc=1

And not their dedicated copper remover:

https://www.amazon.com/Bore-Tech-Cu-...g%2C142&sr=1-1

-yes?

[huntinlever]

the current #9 is a completely different than the original formula + jmho it lost much performance with the several ingredient changes over the years -

Is it that they dropped benzene?

[Char-Gar]

OK, sorry. I'd heard the name but thought we we're talking about a bullet lube. Just looked it up, and will give it a try. Do you use this as a carbon fouling solvent only? Not on action, right?

It is a bore cleaner.

[pworley1]

Ed's Red both performance + cost wise -jmho

This.

[Hannibal]

I don't see ATF and mineral spirits as bad solvents. Unless you're cleaning shotguns you use plastic shot cups in you don't need Acetone.

Agree. I wouldn't call them bad compared to many other things. I do put turpentine in mine also but as I seldom shoot shotguns I leave the acetone out. I also like to use the cheap plastic condiment dispensers and the acetone wouldn't play nice with those.

As you noted in your next post, the only downside to Ed's Red is I would definitely not consider it aggressive enough for a badly fouled bore but really good for a cast only bore that is in good fundamental condition.

[huntinlever]

It is a bore cleaner.

Thanks.

[TurnipEaterDown]

Myself, I really like the Bore Tech copper remover.

I do have a borescope and do use it, and I do find that the Bore Tech Cu+2 Copper Remover works much quicker for me than Hoppes #9 bench rest, shooters choice, AccuPro Accu-bore copper remover, sweets, etc.
I do see in this posting that Hoppes 9 BR is stated to have changed over the years, and I last bought a large bottle probably 5-8 years ago. Don't know what that tells anyone.

The Bore Tech stuff impressed me well enough (again using a bore scope) that I pretty much switched over to that brand.

Their copper cleaner also states that it is reccomended to leave a light coating in as a sort term corrosion preventative.
While I don't usually do that, because I follow everything w/ dry patches and then Eezox, since the Bore Tech Cu+2 can be used that way I have no quibbles about letting it sit in the bore longer than the reccomended 10 or so minutes if I am multi-tasking. I don't do that with the amonia based copper removers, as I have been advised that they can etch the bore if left for too long.

I don't fear JB bore paste either, though I only really use it infrequently when something (lead, copper, fouling from plated steel jackets, or whatever) just won't budge.
It has never let me down, and whether it was that or just shooting it several hundred rounds, my significantly pitted/frosted M99G that was neglected does seem to also now clean quicker after some polishing time w/ JB. I did spend about an hour on it one day w/ stroke after stroke through the bore with JB.
(I also used it on the chamber to ease the pitting after the scotchbrite followed by 600 grit paste -- the cases wouldn't extract at anything over a 80% of maximum load when I first got the gun, and now it does give me reasonable velocities w/ easy extraction. Maybe the JB didn't do much there, but figured as a final pit easing / polishing step it couldn't hurt.)

Anyone on here use Balistol?
I got a large can of that in some estate sale find, and now I am curious where it will work best.

[huntinlever]

Agree. I wouldn't call them bad compared to many other things. I do put turpentine in mine also but as I seldom shoot shotguns I leave the acetone out. I also like to use the cheap plastic condiment dispensers and the acetone wouldn't play nice with those.

As you noted in your next post, the only downside to Ed's Red is I would definitely not consider it aggressive enough for a badly fouled bore but really good for a cast only bore that is in good fundamental condition.

Sounds like a good maintenance solvent then. I hear you on the condiment dispensers. I have small apothecary-type bottles with eye droppers, works great in my bore-guide port. Don't know the chemistry but leave the acetone out, sounds like it helps dissolve plastic residue from shotgun shells?

[5090SS]

Some 50 years back Hoppe's or surplus was all I could get and I liked that I could leave #9 overnite in a bore (22-250) and have it work slowly on copper fouling as well as protect the bore. Later I found Sweet's and it was definitely faster, but I left it in a bore overnite and it seemed like I was getting rust on patches. This was from a new rifle.I wasn't sure what to make of that, so I decided to stay with Hoppe's for everything. Besides it smells nicer than ammonia.

[huntinlever]

Myself, I really like the Bore Tech copper remover.

I do have a borescope and do use it, and I do find that the Bore Tech Cu+2 Copper Remover works much quicker for me than Hoppes #9 bench rest, shooters choice, AccuPro Accu-bore copper remover, sweets, etc.
I do see in this posting that Hoppes 9 BR is stated to have changed over the years, and I last bought a large bottle probably 5-8 years ago. Don't know what that tells anyone.

The Bore Tech stuff impressed me well enough (again using a bore scope) that I pretty much switched over to that brand.

Their copper cleaner also states that it is reccomended to leave a light coating in as a sort term corrosion preventative.
While I don't usually do that, because I follow everything w/ dry patches and then Eezox, since the Bore Tech Cu+2 can be used that way I have no quibbles about letting it sit in the bore longer than the reccomended 10 or so minutes if I am multi-tasking. I don't do that with the amonia based copper removers, as I have been advised that they can etch the bore if left for too long.

I don't fear JB bore paste either, though I only really use it infrequently when something (lead, copper, fouling from plated steel jackets, or whatever) just won't budge.
It has never let me down, and whether it was that or just shooting it several hundred rounds, my significantly pitted/frosted M99G that was neglected does seem to also now clean quicker after some polishing time w/ JB. I did spend about an hour on it one day w/ stroke after stroke through the bore with JB.
(I also used it on the chamber to ease the pitting after the scotchbrite followed by 600 grit paste -- the cases wouldn't extract at anything over a 80% of maximum load when I first got the gun, and now it does give me reasonable velocities w/ easy extraction. Maybe the JB didn't do much there, but figured as a final pit easing / polishing step it couldn't hurt.)

Anyone on here use Balistol?
I got a large can of that in some estate sale find, and now I am curious where it will work best.

Excellent, thanks. Do I understand that you use the CU solvent only - not the Eliminator for powder fouling first, then the CU for a swipe at copper fouling?

[M-Tecs]

the current #9 is a completely different than the original formula + jmho it lost much performance with the several ingredient changes over the years -

I used a lot of the original Hoppe's Nitro formula in the past. After they eliminated the nitro benzene from the formula in the late 80's or early 90's it became much less effective. Some claim it has been "improved" since then but was not impressed with their first attempt with no nitro benzene. I have not used it since the mid 90's.

Boretech Eliminator, WipeOut Foam and Sweets 7.62 are my go-to for most applications.

[huntinlever]

Some 50 years back Hoppe's or surplus was all I could get and I liked that I could leave #9 overnite in a bore (22-250) and have it work slowly on copper fouling as well as protect the bore. Later I found Sweet's and it was definitely faster, but I left it in a bore overnite and it seemed like I was getting rust on patches. This was from a new rifle.I wasn't sure what to make of that, so I decided to stay with Hoppe's for everything. Besides it smells nicer than ammonia.

I've heard Sweet's is aggressive and leaving it in past a certain point can actually induce pitting. I'd thought of the Hoppe's way but read a F & S article that was not a fan - "took me a week" or something like that, and really favored the JB compound (that's the first I'd come across the JB).

Here's an excerpt:

Phosphor-bronze brushes. You are free to use stainless steel if you want to wreck your barrel, or nylon, if you wish to scrub forever and accomplish nothing.

Shooter’ Choice MC#7 Bore Cleaner. This is the best gun cleaning solvent I know of. Also, it will remove anything from anything.

Brownell’s J-B Non-Embedding Bore Cleaning Compound. This paste is the nuclear option for copper fouling. When everything else fails, J-B will get the job done. With J-B should go a can of Kroil, a very thin penetrating oil that you use with it.

Birchwood-Casey Gun Scrubber. Unmatched for flushing out ugh and degreasing*. If they stop making it, I will give up shooting.

Brownell’s Square Patches in the following sizes: #2 (.22-.270), #3 (7mm-.38), #4 (.35 to 20 gauge), #5 (16-12 gauge) #5 HD-3 (12-gauge heavy duty).
Brownell’s sells these in packs of 100, or bags of 1,000. You want the latter.

Hoppe’s No. 9 Benchrest Copper Bore Cleaner. In bores of .25 and smaller, scrubbing with J-B is not practical. This will do the job, but it takes time.

https://www.fieldandstream.com/story...clean-a-rifle/

Is the Hoppe's BR copper remover also reformulated, like the No. 9, and so it has weakened? Do you use the BR copper solvent?

[huntinlever]

Boretech Eliminator, WipeOut Foam and Sweets 7.62 are my go-to for most applications.

Would you mind breaking down the conditions when you choose among these 3? (i.e., do you tend to one for maintenance, another for truly gunked up, in combination, etc.)?

[Rockindaddy]

I still have a pile of the old WWII stinky bore solvent. My wife hates the smell! But if you are shooting old corrosive ammo there is nothing better than the old smelly stuff. You have to wear rubber gloves as the chemicals are absorbed into your skin. What will I do when it all runs out?

[challenger_i]

I have to fight my girlfriend for my #9: she wants to use it for smellum good stuff. (This is NOT a joke!)

I do wish I could find a supply of the old #9 that has it on the label that it is for use with corrosive primers. New stuff is ok, but my small stash of original is the only thing short of hot soapy water that works on my old mil ammo.

[Hannibal]

To the OP - this thread is starting to get confusing regarding the various opinions. I'm not saying anyone is wrong or right. In my personal opinion the only way you can know for certain what type of fouling you have is by borescope inspection. Many people do not like them for various reasons but I think it's hands-down the absolute best way to know what a bore needs and to monitor your cleaning efforts.

If you'd like to PM me I will be happy to provide any assistance I can to help you determine what best fits your needs based on my personal experience. If we're going to do that, I do need you to invest in a Teslong borescope. They can be purchased from Amazon for a very reasonable price of roughly $70 and will work with most any smartphone. The only reason I make such a stipulation is I know of no other way to determine what, if anything your bore or bores need. You can easily spend more than that in solvents fairly quickly and you'll know if your efforts are working or not.

If you'd rather not go with my suggestions I completely understand. No hard feelings at all. I'm just offering help if you're interested.

[TD1886]

I have to fight my girlfriend for my #9: she wants to use it for smellum good stuff. (This is NOT a joke!)

I do wish I could find a supply of the old #9 that has it on the label that it is for use with corrosive primers. New stuff is ok, but my small stash of original is the only thing short of hot soapy water that works on my old mil ammo.

One can buy nitrobenzene, the stuff they removed from the old Hoppe's, and put in back in the new stuff if you know the ratio of it to the other ingredients. Yeah it's bad for you, but so are a whole lot of other chemicals that we use daily. Does any know of anyone that used the old Hoppe's and was seriously stricken ill? I personally don't and a lot of gunspeople have uses a lot of hit. I know I did.

I definitey wouldn't use it for cologne. Maybe you should introduce your girlfriend to English Leather aftershave/cologne and she may really like it and much safer. It was a big smash back in the 60's and 70's. You can still find it on the internet.

[charlie b]

My choices aren't on the list so I didn't vote.

Ed's Red for powder fouling, without acetone is good for anything but shotguns (I mix it in a quart container). The nice thing is the components have other purposes as well. Having some ATF, Kerosene, and Mineral Spirits around the garage is handy.

I've also just used water and Dawn for an initial cleaning if the fouling is heavy. Then follow with Ed's. I have also tried CLR (the bathroom cleaner). It works a bit better, but, I don't like some of the chemicals in it for everyday use without gloves and ventilation. The original Break Free CLP was great stuff. Not so much the current crop.

I've used many of the copper removers. KG-12 for me works the fastest, but, it doesn't change color to let you know it is done. So, most of the time I use Pro Shot Copper Solvent. It is almost as fast, but, it turns blue when there is still copper present (it also removes powder fouling as it works, which is convenient). These both work on heavy copper fouling in less than an hour. Sweet's, Hoppes, etc copper solvents are just ammonia in the mix. Works but takes a LOT longer (hours and hours) and leaving it in the bore overnight can damage things. Might be ok in a good hand lapped barrel.

[TD1886]

Interesting nobody mentioned the electronic bore cleaners.

[challenger_i]

Nah, I told her to stay out of my gun stash. As to other options, she's one of those unfortunate folks that can't handle artificial scents. Gives her a whopping headache, right damn now. She is amused that #9 doesn't affect her. Now, if I could just talk her into swabbing my artillery after I'm done... (Firearms related!)

I definitey wouldn't use it for cologne. Maybe you should introduce your girlfriend to English Leather aftershave/cologne and she may really like it and much safer. It was a big smash back in the 60's and 70's. You can still find it on the internet.