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View Poll Results: What bore solvent(s)?

Voters
125. You may not vote on this poll
  • Hoppe's No. 9

    60 48.00%
  • Hoppe's Benchrest Copper solvent

    8 6.40%
  • Shooter's Choice MC #7

    14 11.20%
  • JB-Non Embedding Compound

    10 8.00%
  • Break-Free CLP

    13 10.40%
  • Sweet's 7.62

    15 12.00%
  • Barnes CR-10

    1 0.80%
  • Shooter's Choice Maximum Strength Copper Remover

    4 3.20%
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Thread: Best Bore Solvent?

  1. #101
    Boolit Master
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    Ballistol SDS:

    White Mineral Oil 8042-47-5 >= 60% Asp. Tox. 1, H304
    Proprietary Petroleum Distillate Trade Secret 10 - 30% Flam. Liq. 3, H226

  2. #102
    Boolit Master elmacgyver0's Avatar
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    Nothing wrong with petroleum, been making the world a better place since the late 1800s.

  3. #103
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by gwpercle View Post
    Sorry ... I can't play ... You forgot Ed's Red Gun Solvent ...

    I can buy one quart of each of the 4 ingredient's at wally's mart for just under $25
    and mix up a whole gallon of the best bore solvent you ever used !

    I would like to thank Mr. Harris for developing and making the "recipe" available to us shooter's on a limited income ... I can't remember how many years I have used Ed's Red ...but it has been awhile ...
    Thank You Sir !
    Gary ...
    Edís Red is a great bore and general firearm cleaner. I added the lanolin option and it makes it much less harsh on the hands. I donít know why commercial lube/solvent makers donít include it. It is so cheap I donít feel bad using it generously while scrubbing out receivers, slides and bores. A great contribution by Harris.

  4. #104
    Boolit Master
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    I use hoppes #9 sometimes kroil, but making a gallon of eds red is coming to top of list of things to do as the level in the bottles of hoppes gets lower.

  5. #105
    Boolit Grand Master
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    +1 for "Ed's Red"

  6. #106
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by TD1886 View Post
    Thing is with Ed's Red you're just cleaing out powder carbon and bullet lube. It may lift some lead off the bore, but you really shouldn't have any of that right? It's not for jacketed. It also leaves a light oil preservative on your bore depending on how well you wipe it out.
    You say that like it's a bad thing. I thought it would work with copper fouling if left to soak, but I don't shoot much copper.
    I haven't spent a dime on bore solvent since making my first batch of ER years ago.

  7. #107
    Boolit Grand Master

    gwpercle's Avatar
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    J-B Bore Compound isn't a " Solvent" ... it's a bore cleaning compound ... consisting of a fine polishing agent in a grease .

    You omitted the best gun "solvent" ... "Ed's Red Bore Cleaner " also known as
    "Ed's Red Gun Solvent" .

    I've been using the stuff for 50 years on anything that needs cleaning , J-word , lead and carbon fouled bores ... greasy lube/sizers and reloading presses ...
    it simply works .
    Gary
    Certified Cajun
    Proud Member of The Basket of Deplorables
    " Let's Go Brandon !"

  8. #108
    Boolit Mold ttd444's Avatar
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    Sweets is what i use for copper cleaner for my "new" old rifles. Shooter's Choice MC #7 is what i use for cleaning when i use regular bullets. i haven't had a bore cleaning with my cast boolits for 10 or so years. the outside of the rifle is wiped with Ballistol (weekly) and G96 Triple Action (CLP) gun treatment (about once a year). the rifling that uses cast boolits is wiped 1 or 2 times a year with Ballistol.

  9. #109
    Boolit Master
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    There are numerous bore cleaners that work better for one purpose than they do for others. KG-1 Carbon Remover excels at that purpose, but doesn't do anything for copper or lead. KG-12 Copper Solvent is simply THE BEST copper remover that I've found. Ed's Red is a good general purpose solvent, but it doesn't do much, if anything, for copper. CLP works okay on light carbon, and does nothing for copper or lead. I prefer to use it as a lubricant than for cleaning. Plain old Hoppe's #9 works okay on carbon and will do some light copper removal if left in place overnight. Shooter's Choice Lead Remover has worked for me in the past, but I prefer to avoid lead fouling, rather than have to remove it. Some of the benchrest guys use CLR (Calcium, Lime, and Rust Remover) to remove hard carbon at the end of their chambers, but don't use it on blued guns! It will take the bluing right off if you get sloppy.
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  10. #110
    Boolit Grand Master Outpost75's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Char-Gar View Post
    It is a bore cleaner.
    Great as expedient cannon bore cleaner on 105mm and 155mm as well as 20mm auto cannon.
    The ENEMY is listening.
    HE wants to know what YOU know.
    Keep it to yourself.

  11. #111
    Boolit Master


    Omega's Avatar
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    Ed's Red user here, for the most part. I do use a bit of FMJ in some of my plinkers so have to use other products now and then. But with Ed's Red, I don't mix an entire gallon, just enough for a mason jar. I got the following printed out on my reloading board, I don't recall the source, so if someone knows please chime in, I haven't tried the Hoppes recipe yet but include it as well:
    Ed's Red Bore Cleaner

    1 part Dexron II, IIe or III ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later.

    1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1

    1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits, Fed. Spec. TT-T-2981F, CAS
    #64741-49-9, or may substitute "Stoddard Solvent", CAS #8052-41-3, or
    equivalent, (aka "Varsol")

    1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1.

    (Optional up to 1 lb. of Lanolin, Anhydrous, USP per gallon, OK to
    substitute Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant, from the drug store)

    MIXING INSTRUCTIONS FOR "ER" BORE CLEANER:

    Mix outdoors, in good ventilation. Use a clean 1 gallon metal,
    chemical-resistant, heavy gage PET or PVC plastic container. NFPA
    approved plastic gasoline storage containers are also OK. Do NOT use
    HDPE, which is permeable, because the acetone will eventually evaporate.
    The acetone in ER will also attack HDPE, causing the container to
    collapse, making a heck of a mess!

    Add the ATF first. Use the empty container to measure the other
    components, so that it is thoroughly rinsed. If you incorporate the
    lanolin into the mixture, melt this carefully in a double boiler, taking
    precautions against fire. Pour the melted lanolin it into a larger
    container, rinsing the lanolin container with the bore cleaner mix, and
    stirring until it is all dissolved.

    I recommend diverting a small quantity, up to 4 ozs. per quart of the
    50-50 ATF/kerosene mix for optional use as an "ER-compatible" gun oil.
    This can be done without impairing the effectiveness of the remaining

    To make it a copper cleaner mix:
    11oz Ed's Red
    2oz 10% ammonia: ACE P/N ACE10183
    2oz soluble cutting oil: NAPA Sta-Lube P/N SL SL 2512
    1oz Murphys oil soap

    Hoppes No. 9
    Original component Notes
    Ammonium oleate (CAS #544-60-5) 5.0 oz (also known as ammonium soap) Could substitute lanolin but this would sacrifice its mild copper removal qualities
    aka Oleic Acid CAS #112-80-1
    Amyl Acetate (CAS#544-60-5) 8.5 oz ("banana oil")
    Nitro-benzene 2.0 oz (the racing fuel additive)
    K1 Kerosene 8.5 oz
    Neutral Saponifiable Oil 8 oz (Not identified, probably sperm oil, but ATF could be substituted
    "Freedom is the sure possession of those alone who have the courage to defend it."
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  12. #112
    Boolit Master
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    Two questions:

    1. Does that Hoppes mix smell like the original? Maybe cause of the banana oil?

    2. When adding that ammonia to Ed's Red why add the cutting oil and soap? What do they do that the other components do not?

    I've always wondered why Ed's needed both the stoddard solvent and the Kerosene. They are very similar chains (C15 and C17 ??). IIRC he substituted the Stoddard solvent/Mineral spirits for the original turpentine.

  13. #113
    Boolit Master BNE's Avatar
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    I am a fan of Edís Red. But I recently tried Frog Lube bore solvent.

    I think the Frog Lube is faster and better!!!!

    I need to do more study, but it is amazing on powder residue.

    BNE
    I'm a Happy Clinger.

  14. #114
    Boolit Buddy

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    Jojoba oil is good substitute for Sperm Oil. It's a very similar natural ester that displaces crud from metal. Also used in place of Sperm Oil in clock repair.

  15. #115
    Boolit Master
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    We use mineral oil in place of sperm oil for sewing machines. It also dissolves hardened varnishes in the machine. ATF is probably better as a lube but the mineral oil does not stain cloth and washes out easily. It's good for the skin and digestion as well

    For the guns I'll stick with the ATF, Kerosene, Thinner.

  16. #116
    Boolit Buddy

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    Why does all the good stuff smell so strong?

  17. #117
    Boolit Bub
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    I'm still using Breakfree. Has to be at least 35 years now.

  18. #118
    Boolit Buddy

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    All in one stuff is the Program Managers and Logisticians answer to cutting costs, not the end users needs.

  19. #119
    Boolit Master Jack Stanley's Avatar
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    I've used Hoppe's for a very long time and it's worked good . It may be a little slow on copper but it does get it in time .

    Jack
    Buy it cheap and stack it deep , you may need it !

    Black Rifles Matter

  20. #120
    Boolit Bub Darklin's Avatar
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    I Hoppes #9 for all my shotgun needs and Ed's for all my Rifles. I used CLP for 20 years in the military but got away from it once I retired. Found the Ed's Red in 2019 and have used it ever since. Does better than most ones out there.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check