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Thread: 223 brass STUCK CASE - HELP!

  1. #1
    Boolit Master BNE's Avatar
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    223 brass STUCK CASE - HELP!

    So I did it again.... I didn't use enough case lube and now I have a PRIMED brass stuck in the resizing die.

    I was making 223 / 556 blanks and after I start the crimp I run the cases back though the sizing die (Without the primer remover) to make sure I didn't bell the case. It stuck and the rim ripped off. I have it soaking in Bens Red, but no luck so far.

    Any suggestions?

    (I had this happen before, and even with the stuck case remover tool, I ended up buying a new die.)
    I'm a Happy Clinger.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master MarkP's Avatar
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    What brand of die to you have? On some you can loosen the decapping rod nut and tap the rod downward with a small hammer; the decapping rod will push the case out. This will work on Hornady new dimension and Lee dies. Do this with the die still in the press. Pacific and RCBS dies the decapping rod is pressed into a blind hole and will not work.


    you can also drill and tap the head of the case; use a socket or a small tube that mates up with the end of the die but is the ID is larger than the head of the case, next place a washer on top of the socket and screw a bolt into the tapped case and tighten the bolt, when the bolt head contacts the washer it will pull the case out as you tighten the bolt. Like a pulley puller.
    Last edited by MarkP; 07-05-2023 at 10:50 PM.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    Find a 3/8" tap ( if I remember size correctly ) and gently insert it into the case ( brass shell ) body, and slowly turn.
    The tap will grab the brass shell and come out. Take care not to hit the die body with the tap.... No 3/8"is for 308, you will need to size the tap to the case ?

  4. #4
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    garandsrus's Avatar
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    Can you put the decapping stem into the die from the top? If you can, just push the primer out and then remove as normal by drilling and tapping the case head. If you can’t get a decapping stem in, you probably need to set off the primer and then proceed as normal. The easiest way to set it off is with a torch. Heat it for a second or two and it will ignite. Make sure you have safety glasses and ear plugs in. It will be loud. Since the top of the die is open, no pressure will build up.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master Hannibal's Avatar
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    I'd toss the die, buy another and either switch case lubes or alter my case lubing practices.

    Sometimes we don't learn the first time.

  6. #6
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    So- it’s a loaded blank in the die and the decapping stem isn’t in the die, correct?
    If the neck isn’t crimped shut, perhaps dig the wadding/powder out with a dental pick then punch the case out with the die screwed into the press.
    Perhaps?


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  7. #7
    Boolit Master deces's Avatar
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    If it's a Lee die, luckily you'll be able to beat it out with a punch from Harbor Freight.
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    Last edited by deces; 07-05-2023 at 11:48 PM.
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  8. #8
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    With a loaded case you are not going to be able to drill and tap until you can get the case empty of bullet, powder, and primer. Screw the die into the die against the die ring good and tight. Take a pair of long needle nosed pliers and see if you can get a good grip on the bullet to pull it. They might or might not hold but give it a try. If you can remove the bullet, you can take the die out of the press and dump the powder. Now you are ready to remove the primer. either insert the depriming unit back into the die and use it or use a little Lee depriming punch (but use real light taps to remove the primer). NOW you are ready to remove the case by drilling and tapping. I would recommend buying an RCBS stuck case remover to keep on hand. After I stuck my first case many years ago(no primer or powder or bullet) a friend of mine had a stuck case remover and did the removal for me in about 10 minutes from start to finish. I went home and ordered one by mail and have never looked back. I have only used it about 2 times since I bought it but it is a die saver. my experience anyway, james

    OK, I missed the blank part. So the reoval of the wadding and powder will come first and then the rest of the post will follow. james
    Last edited by TNsailorman; 07-05-2023 at 11:51 PM.

  9. #9
    Boolit Grand Master
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    If you try to tap the primer out use a face shield if you have one or safety glasses. If you cannot tap the primer out, find a way to set if off safely. There is no other way to deactivate a primer I am aware of.

    Once the primer is out, it a stuck case remover has always worked for me.
    Don Verna


  10. #10
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    I've been reloading around 40 years. Two years ago had my first stuck case - oddly enough it was also a 223/5.56 case. I tried everything to remove it, but it was like it was plumb welded into the die. Finally gave up and got a set of Lee 223 SB dies. Talked to a buddy about it, and he said: "really, first time to get a 223 case stuck? I've gone through two or three sets of 223 dies so far."
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  11. #11
    Boolit Grand Master jmorris's Avatar
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    I haven’t ever stuck a primed and charged case in a size die. If you ignite the charge trying to get it out, it will probably remove itself but your going to want a lot more than a face shield to keep from getting hurt.

    I am old enough now I would toss it and start over but in the old days I would have wasted more time than it’s worth and accepted much more risk…

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by dverna View Post
    If you try to tap the primer out use a face shield if you have one or safety glasses. If you cannot tap the primer out, find a way to set if off safely. There is no other way to deactivate a primer I am aware of.

    Once the primer is out, it a stuck case remover has always worked for me.
    [ There is no other way to deactivate a primer I am aware of. ] Some oil - pored, inside of the case will kill the primer .

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    Maybe too late to try this but will make the suggestion anyway. Often times freezing will shrink the die and then warming will allow the die to expand just a little. Sounds like you have a bigger problem though. Blow out as much of the solvent as you can. Warm it gently to help the remaining solvent evaporate and then drop the whole thing into warm water. After it has had time to displace as much of the air between the die and the case, dump the water out and set it case mouth down in a freezer. Maybe, enough water will work into the space between the case and the die and freezing will cause the brass to be sized a little smaller. Probably will need to do this a few times but no heat, no flying primer cups, and it is only wasted time.

    After a little more consideration, maybe just freeze then drop in hot water, then freeze again to see if that might help suck the water into any space between the die and brass. Cycle through a few times at least before trying to push the case out.

  14. #14
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    Darned 223/556 and I feel its THE MOST STUCK caliber made!

    I have stuck a couple. My buddy seems ta stick 5/6 a year! He always has me remove them for him. RCBS stuck Case tool has never failed. But its been close.

    Many are lube problems but I have stuck one with Imperial and I KNOW it was lubed. So it was probably quite swelled. Or steel. Steel cases have been colored to mimic brass.

    I have yet to have to toss a die but some are easier to fix then others.

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  15. #15
    Boolit Master WRideout's Avatar
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    If you can get the entire bottom off the case, it will eliminate the primer, and allow the powder charge to fall out. I once had a 30-06 case like that (no case head) so I filled it with molten lead, let it harden, and now I had a solid base to hammer the case out with a punch. Desperate times, desperate measures.

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  16. #16
    Boolit Buddy gumbo333's Avatar
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    As I understand the problem, there is no powder in the case??? If not simply put the die with stuck cartridge in a vise pointing away and set off the primer with a hammer and punch/ nail. It’s not a big bang. Then use your stuck case remover tool, or make as I did years and years ago, with your die in the vise. Should pop out. Use or get some Imperial sizing wax and use it. 223 does seem to be the worst. I’ve only stuck a couple but never needed to toss the dies. Clean them once in a while. Good luck.
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  17. #17
    Boolit Master
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    However you set off that primer (I’d use a torch) don’t have anything you value behind the head of the case. That primer will come out with some substantial force. Years ago I imbedded one in my hand that way.

  18. #18
    Boolit Man dillonhelp's Avatar
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    Will the bullet seating stem from the seat die thread into the top of the size die? If the thread is the same, this might push the case out of the die.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master BNE's Avatar
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    Guys -Thank you for all the input.

    To Clarify:

    It's a Hornady Sizing die.

    It is Primed, but I was able to remove the powder. (It was not fully crimped yet.)

    I have access to a huge selection of gage pins at work. I was able to fit one about 0.18" into the die and into the brass. I turned the die upside down and screwed it into the press. I was then able to pull back on my press handle and put direct pressure onto the gage pin and it was pushing on the bottom of the brass. Still will not budge....While Jmorris is probably correct - I should toss it, but I consider this type of frustration part of the fun. (Maybe I'm sick that way, but all of you jumped in to help!!)

    I think I will pop the primer (Properly safe guarded. I like my ears, eyes and fingers). Then I will take to work where we have a huge arbor press.

    I like the freezing idea.

    I have the RCBS stuck case tool removal kit, if the above does not work. I was not able to make that work last time. More to come.....
    I'm a Happy Clinger.

  20. #20
    Boolit Buddy Sam Sackett's Avatar
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    OK. Now you have the powder out. Can you install the die in a strong single stage press? If so, get a brass rod that will for down inside the die that will bottom out inside the bottom of the casing. Give it a couple of good whacks with a hammer. Should drive the case out if it will ever come out.

    You might want to fill the casing/die with penetrating oil and leave it overnight to soak.

    Worth a try….

    Sam Sackett

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
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LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
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