RepackboxLee PrecisionTitan ReloadingReloading Everything
Snyders JerkyMidSouth Shooters SupplyWidenersLoad Data
Inline Fabrication RotoMetals2
Results 1 to 3 of 3

Thread: Pacific Cast Iron C press ID side of frame says 1933 Patent

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    333

    Pacific Cast Iron C press ID side of frame says 1933 Patent

    Someone gave it away as a freebe at my club. Badly rusted frame may be missing a pi for handle to ram. Has several rams , different sizes as the shell holders are not removable. a few small rust spots on rams ... Might be fixable with alittle cleanup. What is best way to remove rust from frame without destroying. If I paint what was original color? I have to check rams and see what calibers they fit.
    afish4570
    Last edited by afish4570; 07-02-2023 at 11:42 PM. Reason: corrected a sentence out of place

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    Bent Ramrod's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Southern Arizona
    Posts
    4,292
    It sounds like you have an original Pacific C-press. The earliest ones had “Patent Pending” cast into the frame; later ones had the patent number.

    Pre-war specimens have a cylindrical top where the die screws in and had an elaborate aluminum attachment that clamped over this for the auto-priming feature. Postwar versions had two lugs on the front of the cylinder with a hole to fit the more conventional auto-prime setup everybody else was using.

    The shellholders were machined into the rams, and there was a knurled pin for takedown that at least made the changing operation doable, if not as convenient as the later snap-in shellholder that RCBS invented.

    Your rams and surfaces ought to clean up with Evaporust and rubbing with steel wool. Keep it off the paint, if it’s original, and try WD-40 and paper towels on that rust. For a time after the War, the color remained non-gloss black, but changed to blue sometime in the 50s or early 60s, IIRC.

    There’s some threads on the early Pacific presses here on Vintage Reloading Tools and also the ARTCA web site.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
    Scrounge's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    OKC Metro
    Posts
    1,437
    Quote Originally Posted by afish4570 View Post
    Someone gave it away as a freebe at my club. Badly rusted frame may be missing a pi for handle to ram. Has several rams , different sizes as the shell holders are not removable. a few small rust spots on rams ... Might be fixable with alittle cleanup. What is best way to remove rust from frame without destroying. If I paint what was original color? I have to check rams and see what calibers they fit.
    afish4570
    Get a gallon of EvapoRust, for the easiest way to get rid of rust without messing with the paint that might be left. You'll need to degrease it. Dawn dishwashing detergent with hot water will do the job. Last I looked, Harbor Freight has gallons of EvapoRust for about $30.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check