MidSouth Shooters SupplyTitan ReloadingWidenersRotoMetals2
Inline FabricationReloading EverythingLee PrecisionLoad Data
Repackbox Snyders Jerky
Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 41 to 60 of 66

Thread: Is there a point to water dropping cast ?

  1. #41
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    1,224
    I don't agree with the statement that water-quenching does NOT increase their hardness. This may be true of pure lead, or perhaps even nearly pure lead alloys (1:40 tin:lead?), but it is not true of Lyman #2 or "Hardball" alloys. I've tested this myself, and not with a reloader's hardness tester, but with a full-size industrial-standard Brinnell Hardness tester.
    I'm not sure of the minimum wt./wt.% of antimony is necessary to "heat treat" projectiles, but 0.25% arsenic seems to be enough. Depending on the process involved, 0.5% is sometimes used. Whether arsenic in an alloy that is free of antimony will heat treat is unclear to me, but on a guess, I suspect it would work.
    For in much wisdom is much grief: and he that increaseth knowledge increaseth sorrow. Ecclesiastes 1:18
    He that troubleth his own house shall inherit the wind: and the fool become servant to the wise of heart. Proverbs 11:29
    ...Verily I say unto you, Inasmuch as ye have done it unto one of the least of my brethren, ye have done it unto me. Matthew 25:40


    Carpe SCOTCH!

  2. #42
    Boolit Master
    Ed_Shot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    North Texas
    Posts
    1,121
    Quote Originally Posted by popper View Post
    Load alloy with > 2% Sb WILL get higher BHN with water dropping in COLD (ice) water. As will allow faster hardening. I WD out of the oven when PCing, AFTER 1/2 hr @ 400F. A 10-15 min oven bake will NOT work. 1-2% Sb will eventually harden a bit, not very much, Sn=Sb works better at that low %. WD in ice water works when dropped from the mold, same % rules as above. I size and load a within a couple days after WD, even WD takes a couple days to 'cure' properly.
    Totally agree with POPPER. Here is an excellent thread on water quenching and boolit hardness. Watch the video.

    https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...7-PC-Questions
    COME AND TAKE IT
    Let’s Go Brandon!!!!

  3. #43
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    1,006
    GONRA "water quenches" all water cast boolits. Just for the hell of it.....
    RANGE LEAD.
    short L/D Lyman /Lee "Pistol Boolits"
    Lubed with pure ALOX 2138F purchased decade ago.
    Lyman Lube Sizer......
    Verks Just Fine for me...........

  4. #44
    Moderator


    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Just outside Gun Barrel City, Texas
    Posts
    9,712
    Quote Originally Posted by GONRA View Post
    GONRA "water quenches" all cast boolits. Just for the hell of it..... ...
    That's pretty much where I'm at.

    I'm also wondering when this powder coating fad will go away like moly coating everything did and
    the big need to have your barrels cryo-treated.
    In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
    In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.


    OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
    This ain't your Grandma's sewing circle.
    EVERYONE!
    Back to your oars. The Captain wants to waterski.

  5. #45
    Boolit Master Hannibal's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    East of KCMO
    Posts
    2,213
    All joking aside, if you do water quench make sure they are completely dry before storing them. Otherwise you'll wind up with 'fuzzy' boolits that are potentially hazardous to handle.

    Learned this the hard way.

  6. #46
    Boolit Grand Master fredj338's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    kalif.
    Posts
    7,246
    Quote Originally Posted by Winger Ed. View Post
    That's pretty much where I'm at.

    I'm also wondering when this powder coating fad will go away like moly coating everything did and
    the big need to have your barrels cryo-treated.
    I was slow to PC but I think its here to stay. Unlike moly, it doesnt deposit in the bore. So ne downside to using it. My guns shoot waaay cleaner with PC vs lubed.
    EVERY GOOD SHOOTER NEEDS TO BE A HANDLOADER.
    NRA Cert. Inst. Met. Reloading & Basic Pistol

  7. #47
    Boolit Grand Master fredj338's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    kalif.
    Posts
    7,246
    Quote Originally Posted by Budzilla 19 View Post
    fredj338, I agree that when you pc, you lose any gain in hardness you may have gained from water drop.
    If I want a harder bullet, I will water drop out of the PC oven. Works great & bullets can be handled immediately.
    EVERY GOOD SHOOTER NEEDS TO BE A HANDLOADER.
    NRA Cert. Inst. Met. Reloading & Basic Pistol

  8. #48
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    JAX, FL
    Posts
    1,230
    Quote Originally Posted by fredj338 View Post
    If I want a harder bullet, I will water drop out of the PC oven. Works great & bullets can be handled immediately.
    I am/was under the impression heat treating bullets require 450-460 degrees for 45-60 minutes. I wonder if our normal PC temp/cook times are adequate. How to you check the hardness of the alloy under the PC?
    “Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference in the world. But, the Marines don't have that problem.” Ronald Reagan


  9. #49
    Boolit Master facetious's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    559
    https://www.nzha.co.nz/wp-content/up...tBullets-s.pdf

    Go to page #117

    More here to answer your questions.
    We go through life trying to make the best decisions we can based on the best infomation we can find, that turns out to be wrong.

  10. #50
    Boolit Master Maven's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    4,951

    Arrow

    All, You may want to research (Google) Dennis Marshall's articles on water quenching/dropping that appeared in various publications, e.g., for Lyman, RCBS, the NRA. Said articles tell you how to do it and what hardness you'll get with a given alloy.

  11. #51
    Boolit Buddy Walstr's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    SE WISConsin
    Posts
    278
    Quote Originally Posted by Winger Ed. View Post
    I'm not a chemist, but I'd heard more than a few times there has to be a certain amount of Antimony, Arsenic, or maybe both
    for them to harden/temper at all.
    Quite true. My COWW + additional 2% tin produces a 'water quenched hardness' that 'age hardens' in a month. Smack with a 16oz hammer and it barely moves. Too hard for hunting Wisconsin, so I'm going to experiment with 'tempering' the nose, to permit some expansion.
    Been loading 6.5 CM for ELD, learning to load Mosin Nagant & .308/7.62x51
    Caster & CWW / Lead miner.
    Mountain Mold 45-70-405, 80% Meplat, sized .461" dia. for Marlin 1895GS
    Lyman mold #429421 "Elmer Keith" style 255gr, Dbl Cavity; [for .44 Mag, S&W 629, Alox lubed]
    Lyman #356402, 9mm, Sngl Cavity [for a friend]
    LEE #90282, 12ga Drive Key, 7/8oz Slug [for: Son's 3-Gun]
    LEE #90349, 452-255RF, 6 Cavity [for 45 Colt & 45 ACP; Alox lubed]
    LEE #90697, 453-200RF, ditto

  12. #52
    Boolit Master



    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    1,122
    Yup, that's the way to do it.
    Gun control is not about guns.

  13. #53
    Boolit Master
    poppy42's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    1,563
    Quote Originally Posted by TD1886 View Post
    One of my very good friends is a metallurgist and pure lead can be harden. I'm not going through the process, just believe me. He's something to ponder. Back in the wooden spear day after man shaped the point they hardened it in a flame. Yeah yeah I know it's not metal.
    Well Sir,
    I am certainly not questioning yours or your friends knowledge or sincerity! With that being said I really really hate secondhand information! You know, my friend herd …, or I knew this guy that told me… or my uncles first wife once had a boyfriend that knew a guy…. Do you understand what I’m saying? I would be more inclined to take what your saying as fact if you were the metallurgist! Or if it was your friend that was posting! Now I can tell you, that it’s been my personal experience, that water quenching pure lead does not facilitate any additional hardening of that soft lead! On the other hand, water quenching, an alloy that contains Antimony, amongst other things like arsenic, dose induce additional hardening of that alloy. And that alloy will continue to harden over a period of time! Up to a point! It doesn’t continue to get harder and harder and harder forever!
    I make these statements based on my own personal firsthand experience!
    Sorry but I don’t have any friends. I don’t know any metallurgist. Now I do have nephews, but none of them knows a metallurgist either. So you can assume that my post is coming straight from the horses mouth! (or possibly the other end of the horse. That’s completely up to you!).
    Thank you so much,
    Poppy42
    Long, Wide, Deep, and Without Hesitation!

  14. #54
    Boolit Master 243winxb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    2,844
    Google it.

  15. #55
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Rochester, NY area
    Posts
    182
    I water quench just to cool the bullets down quickly.

  16. #56
    Boolit Buddy Walstr's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    SE WISConsin
    Posts
    278
    Quote Originally Posted by Winger Ed. View Post
    Years ago, everybody cast, and dropped 'em on a towel.
    Then, you had to heat treat everything. You'd put a boolit in an oven and keep raising the temp. until it 'slumped'.
    Back the temp. off some, run your boolits in the oven awhile, and then dump them in cold water.

    Pretty soon, some folks started dropping them out of the mold into cold water to get the tempering.
    I still drop into cold water as it's just fast and handy for me.
    Greetings Pard; Not to put too fine a point on it, but the newbies should be aware that "tempering" is a POST quench, heat treating process to relieve internal stresses from casting/forging process. I feel you meant to say "...to get them quenched."
    Been loading 6.5 CM for ELD, learning to load Mosin Nagant & .308/7.62x51
    Caster & CWW / Lead miner.
    Mountain Mold 45-70-405, 80% Meplat, sized .461" dia. for Marlin 1895GS
    Lyman mold #429421 "Elmer Keith" style 255gr, Dbl Cavity; [for .44 Mag, S&W 629, Alox lubed]
    Lyman #356402, 9mm, Sngl Cavity [for a friend]
    LEE #90282, 12ga Drive Key, 7/8oz Slug [for: Son's 3-Gun]
    LEE #90349, 452-255RF, 6 Cavity [for 45 Colt & 45 ACP; Alox lubed]
    LEE #90697, 453-200RF, ditto

  17. #57
    Boolit Grand Master fredj338's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    kalif.
    Posts
    7,246
    Quote Originally Posted by Winger Ed. View Post
    That's pretty much where I'm at.

    I'm also wondering when this powder coating fad will go away like moly coating everything did and
    the big need to have your barrels cryo-treated.
    The diff for me is moly coated the bore & thne you were pretty much stuck shooting moly coated. PC does NOT leave anything in the bore that I can find. So beats messy, smoky lubes for pistols. I dont shoot much cast in rifles but 45-70.
    EVERY GOOD SHOOTER NEEDS TO BE A HANDLOADER.
    NRA Cert. Inst. Met. Reloading & Basic Pistol

  18. #58
    Boolit Grand Master fredj338's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    kalif.
    Posts
    7,246
    Quote Originally Posted by oley55 View Post
    I am/was under the impression heat treating bullets require 450-460 degrees for 45-60 minutes. I wonder if our normal PC temp/cook times are adequate. How to you check the hardness of the alloy under the PC?
    I have tested them a week after water quenching out of the 400deg oven, they get about 3-4bhn bump. I file the nose of the bullet flat for testing.
    EVERY GOOD SHOOTER NEEDS TO BE A HANDLOADER.
    NRA Cert. Inst. Met. Reloading & Basic Pistol

  19. #59
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    New Market, Iowa
    Posts
    1,472
    Quote Originally Posted by Dancing Bear View Post
    I water quench just to cool the bullets down quickly.
    BINGO!! That is why I do it. I can then handle them easily at the end of a casting session.

  20. #60
    Boolit Buddy michael.birdsley's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Chesaning/Brant Mi
    Posts
    463
    will sizing the boolit negate the effects of water quenching? my understanding ( i’m not a metallurgist but, delt with heat treating parts some in machining of auto parts) is that quenching would help with hardening the surface of the boolit ? so if we take off any where from .001-.003 in the sizing process it would take the surface harden part off. or am I off base ?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check