PID Proposed Shopping List

[RG1911]

I decided I would try to fix my RCBS Pro Melt by building and installing a PID device. Following reading the PID threads here, and watching some on-line videos, I've assembled my first take at a shopping list. Perhaps viewers can let me know if changes should be made.

I will be taking pictures of the build process. If I'm successful at reanimating the pot, I plan to post some pictures of assembling the wiring and components, and any notes that might be of interest.

Thank you, Richard

- Digital PID
Inkbird AC 100 to 220V ITC-100VH Outlet Digital PID Thermostat Temperature Controller 40DA SSR K Thermocouple
$39.99
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01489AQAW/

- Yeeco + K Type Thermocouple 0~1300
$13.99
https://www.amazon.com/Yeeco-Thermoc...dp/B00XJ0VUBG/

- On/Off switch (may be overkill)
$9.99
Joinfworld Inline Cord Switch 30A 250V/120V AC Heavy Duty ON Off Switch DPST 4 Pin ...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BBZT2DZK/

- Thermal paste
$5.42
https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-MX-4-C...dp/B0795DP124/

- Wire (if I can't unearth some)
$16.96
AOTORUA 100FT 16/2 Gauge Red Black Cable Hookup Electrical Wire, 16AWG 2 Conductor 2 Color Flex...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088RC984S/

Note: One article advocated 20 gauge wire.

- Spade terminals
Will need to determine the acceptable sizes when the PID and SSR arrive.

[Walter Laich]

check ebay--sometimes they have most of what you need in a package deal

search PID

[BMW Rider]

Get the 106VH if you want to see temp in F instead of C.

[ulav8r]

On/Off Switch -https://www.lowes.com/pd/Eaton-Single-Pole-White-Compatible-with-LED-Toggle-Light-Switch/1001438312 85 cents at Lowes but will require a cover plate

Lowes, Home Depot, or Ace Hardware sell wire by the foot. Get what you need and no leftovers. Or use an extension cord that has separated from the outlet.

[HATCH]

You do understand that the PID you picked does C only??

Couple pointers.

You don’t need to switch off ALL the power going to the PID.
You only need to switch the power going to the PID controller itself.
The PID controller itself uses very little current.
The SSR gets its switch power from the PID. You kill the control power to the PID then you kill the output to the SSR.

If you are using a metal enclosure then you most likely won’t need a heat sink.
A heat sink on a SSR is mainly needed for you to run it at rated current. So if your gonna be running 75% of rated current then yeah your gonna want a heat sink.
Your pot will draw about 8 amps max. That is less then 20% of the rated max power on that 40 amp SSR. I typically use 25 amp SSRs with no issues.

I would go with ebay item # 272105035441
It’s a high quality unit and the same one I build my PID controllers with.

[PP-67]

metal housing,
power supply from an old computer.

[BamaNapper]

Sounds like you got this. My PID only does C, and it makes no difference in the notebook whether I take notes in C or F. You might save a buck or two getting a package off eBay, may be worth a quick look. I used eBay, but only because it was the first place I looked.

Enjoy the project. Once you have it up and running you're going to like the results. I built my own and spent a pleasant afternoon fitting it into an enclosure and loading up the pot for its maiden voyage.

[RG1911]

You do understand that the PID you picked does C only??

I would go with ebay item # 272105035441
It’s a high quality unit and the same one I build my PID controllers with.

No, I seem to have overlooked that it only works in C. Thank you for pointing it out to me.

Not being an electrician, I am a bit confused about your pointers concerning shutting off power. I assumed that putting a switch in the cord from the wall electrical outlet to the PID system would be the way of turning off power to the pot; or I could just pull the plug. Is there a reason to not shut off power to the whole thing? Or am I completely missing the point?

I was thinking that 40A might be unnecessary.

I suspect that I will build an enclosure from wood; I really don't have any metal-working implements or experience, other than for working on my firearms.

The eBay item looks very nice, although I was thinking of a two-line display that would show the actual temp and the set temp. Perhaps that is not an option.

Thank you, again, for the pointers.

Cheers, Richard

[RG1911]

metal housing,
power supply from an old computer.

Sonuvagun! And I believe I have an old PC from which I can salvage the power supply.

Thank you!

Richard

[RG1911]

check ebay--sometimes they have most of what you need in a package deal

search PID

Thank you. I have but I probably used the wrong search parameters.

Richard

[RG1911]

check ebay--sometimes they have most of what you need in a package deal

search PID

Shall do. Thank you.

Richard

[RG1911]

On/Off Switch -https://www.lowes.com/pd/Eaton-Single-Pole-White-Compatible-with-LED-Toggle-Light-Switch/1001438312 85 cents at Lowes but will require a cover plate

Lowes, Home Depot, or Ace Hardware sell wire by the foot. Get what you need and no leftovers. Or use an extension cord that has separated from the outlet.

True. We have an Ace Hardware. The others are 70 miles away.

Thank you,
Richard

[RG1911]

Get the 106VH if you want to see temp in F instead of C.

Thank you!
Richard

[P Flados]

I assembled a PID temp controller from a "kit" a guy was doing. The thermocouple has a stainless steel braid sheath. For what we do, I like the added durability. I found a similar one eBay item # 145041825247





Edit by Hatch - no eBay links. Read the rules

[RG1911]

I assembled a PID temp controller from a "kit" a guy was doing. The thermocouple has a stainless steel braid sheath. For what we do, I like the added durability. I found a similar one ebay item # 145041825247

Excellent recommendation. Have updated my shopping list.

Thank you, Richard

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I hesitate to mention this, as I seem to be the only one to use it...
BUT, I used the JLD612 from Lightobject
https://lightobject.com/jld612-dual-...re-controller/
it's also available through amazon with free shipping.
one reason why I chose this one, the manual is not in chinglish and the manual's example application is a high heat furnace, just what we want for a lead melting pot...includes suggested parameters.
https://mythopoeic.org/misc-files/JLD612_Manual.pdf

[ranger391xt]

I built a unit using a gutted PC power supply box about 5 years ago and posted pics of my build. Here is a link to that:
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/top...ink_source=app

I recently added a toggle switch so that I don't have to unplug it. Adding a plug for the thermocouple is still on the to-do list.

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk

[RG1911]

I built a unit using a gutted PC power supply box about 5 years ago and posted pics of my build. Here is a link to that:
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/top...ink_source=app

I recently added a toggle switch so that I don't have to unplug it. Adding a plug for the thermocouple is still on the to-do list.

Sent from my SM-N981U using Tapatalk

Good article. As it happens, I have an old gutted PC that still has its power supply. I'll use it.

I do have a couple questions:

- Why did you use a terminal block? I ask simply because the various youtube construction examples I've seen do not use one.
- What did you use to cut the openings in the metal? I suspect I'll need to buy whatever it is.

Thank you, Richard

[RG1911]

Based on information from HATCH, I am changing the PID to this one, which displays in degrees F:

Inkbird ITC-106VH PID Temperature Thermostat Controllers F and C 100 to 240ACV K Sensor 40DA SSR Solid State Relay for Sous Vide Home Brewing
$35.99
https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Tempe...dp/B01KNXETWS/

The switch and thermal paste have been ordered. Just need to order the PID and the temperature probe. I'll get items such as wire and spade terminals locally.

As always, thank you to everyone who kindly answered my request for comments.

Cheers, Richard

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Good article. As it happens, I have an old gutted PC that still has its power supply. I'll use it.

I do have a couple questions:

- Why did you use a terminal block? I ask simply because the various youtube construction examples I've seen do not use one.
- What did you use to cut the openings in the metal? I suspect I'll need to buy whatever it is.

Thank you, Richard

I didn't use a terminal block, I believe I used wire nuts if needed...that's just personal preference.
Also, I used 14 ga wire for all 120 volt wiring.
I use a sabre saw with metal cutting blade, 24 TPI is good ...maybe even 18 TPI would be OK.
If you need to buy a sabre saw, look for one with variable speed, cutting slower makes cutting steel easier, also lube the blade...Oil works, boolit lube works great, but even WD40 helps, mostly you want a lube to keep the blade cool and keep the teeth from getting clogged with galled metal.