PID'd my Lee pot - great results!

[jeff423]

During my first ever casting session I had good, but not great, results with my Lee pot. The temperatrure seemed to vary a lot.

I realized that I had a PID temperature controller that I was using on my smoker. I bought a new thermocouple and dropped it in the pot. I adjusted the Lee control to 8 and then let the PID do the rest. When I was pouring and not adding cold ingots it would hold the temp within 5 degrees either way of set point.

I started at 650f (with Lyman#2) and moved up 50 degrees at a time. At 800 I was getting very good results both with my Lee and Saeco molds. At 850 the results were still good but I was then able to see the parting lines on the Saeco bullets. I don't know if this is a sign of the alloy being too hot or if you should see the parting lines. I did not have any frosting.

The tip of the thermocouple was resting on the bottom of the pot so I don't know if the alloy was actually at that temperature or it was the bottom of the pot but in any case I have a way to get repeatable results.

This seems like an easy upgrade to a lead melter that gives great results. It also minimizes one variable for a newbie like me.

Jeff

[Buckshot]

..............What's a "PID" temp controller, and where can you get them?

................Buckshot

[jeff423]

Check out this thread: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...&highlight=PID

Jeff

[Big Tom]

Here is a very good instruction with parts lists, diagrams etc.
http://www.susanminor.org/forums/showthread.php?t=315

Tom

[Calamity Jake]

"At 850 the results were still good but I was then able to see the parting lines on the Saeco bullets"

IMHO if you can't see parting lines on the boolets then you are not getting good fill out.

I may try the PID too.

[Baron von Trollwhack]

If you have good ears and listen carefully, you can hear the Lee thermostat cycling on and off. Short cycles indicate near steady state at whatever temperature you use. I don't mean in real degrees, but rather the temperature at which your pot produces lead bullets acceptably with your mold and technique.

This is not to diminish the use of a temperature controller.

Either way adding more lead to the pot requires a return to near steady state good casting temp again. The 20 pounders, as I use, also show differential heating as melt is depleted from the pot due to heating element placement. BvT.

[jeff423]

"At 850 the results were still good but I was then able to see the parting lines on the Saeco bullets"

IMHO if you can't see parting lines on the boolets then you are not getting good fill out.

I may try the PID too.

Probably a very good (and logical) answer.

Jeff

[armyrat1970]

What do you mean by parting lines?

[ubetcha]

I have a Lee mold that will not cast a good bullet unless the alloy temp is quite high (aprox 900F) until I sprayed some Midway mold release on it.Now it casts a perfct bullet a a lower temp(aprox 700-750 F) like my other manufactured molds.I don't know why,But it made a differance

[Buckshot]

What do you mean by parting lines?

...............The seam formed on the boolit (should be barely visible) left from the point where the 2 blocks meet.

...............Buckshot

[armyrat1970]

...............The seam formed on the boolit (should be barely visible) left from the point where the 2 blocks meet.

...............Buckshot

Got 'cha. Sometimes when I don't lube my Lee molds right or make sure they are closing correctly they are more evident. I always thought it was better to have no or at the least minimal parting lines showing on the cast boolit?

[thebigmac]

During my first ever casting session I had good, but not great, results with my Lee pot. The temperatrure seemed to vary a lot.

I realized that I had a PID temperature controller that I was using on my smoker. I bought a new thermocouple and dropped it in the pot. I adjusted the Lee control to 8 and then let the PID do the rest. When I was pouring and not adding cold ingots it would hold the temp within 5 degrees either way of set point.

I started at 650f (with Lyman#2) and moved up 50 degrees at a time. At 800 I was getting very good results both with my Lee and Saeco molds. At 850 the results were still good but I was then able to see the parting lines on the Saeco bullets. I don't know if this is a sign of the alloy being too hot or if you should see the parting lines. I did not have any frosting.

The tip of the thermocouple was resting on the bottom of the pot so I don't know if the alloy was actually at that temperature or it was the bottom of the pot but in any case I have a way to get repeatable results.

This seems like an easy upgrade to a lead melter that gives great results. It also minimizes one variable for a newbie like me.

Jeff

Hey Jeff, Pardon my intrusion, but does a PID take the place of the thermostat that is
on the pot? Thanks, bigmac

[Mike W1]

Hey Jeff, Pardon my intrusion, but does a PID take the place of the thermostat that is
on the pot? Thanks, bigmac

The normally accepted procedure is to turn the pot regulator clear up and let the PID control the temperature. Some even disable the pot thermostat but that's not really necessary, just turn it up.

And usually recommended that the probe be about a 1/2" from the bottom and the side of the pot too.

[thebigmac]

the normally accepted procedure is to turn the pot regulator clear up and let the pid control the temperature. Some even disable the pot thermostat but that's not really necessary, just turn it up.

And usually recommended that the probe be about a 1/2" from the bottom and the side of the pot too.

mike w1; thanks for this info very helpful for me.. Mac

[dek16001]

I bought my PID from Kyle 623 .(a member here) it's great at maintaining the temp I want..it has made a big differerance in my casting. I highly recommend to people to pick one up.
If I recall Kyle 623 was selling some more over in the "swap and sell" section.
Dan

[Beagle333]

Whether you buy one or build your own, I highly recommend a PID. It'll change the world regarding your casting. . . . for the good!
Those things are great!

[bangerjim]

Been droppin perfect boolits for years.......without a controller OR thermometer. It's all in the look and feel..............and the expertise of the caster.

If you feel you just must have a controller, by all means sink the money into one. Practice is more valuable!

banger

[RobS]

Been droppin perfect boolits for years.......without a controller OR thermometer. It's all in the look and feel..............and the expertise of the caster.

If you feel you just must have a controller, by all means sink the money into one. Practice is more valuable!

banger

I agree however since I've built mine I wouldn't be without it as I use it for my lead pot and my convection oven. Keeps things flawless and consistent from start to finish.

[cdngunner]

And here's the rub.....some of us will never cast enough for casting to become a second instinct....if I cast a couple hundred of each caliber I'd be doing like 1200-1400 a year. This can be done in a few hour sessions. A pid adds consistency to the process, which is never a bad thing for us part timers.

Been droppin perfect boolits for years.......without a controller OR thermometer. It's all in the look and feel..............and the expertise of the caster.

If you feel you just must have a controller, by all means sink the money into one. Practice is more valuable!

banger

[pcmacd]

Spray can black graphite lube as for use in locks is a great mold conditioner.

Make sure it is lock-appropriate, meaning it will leave no carrier behind.

Since I've started using this, my world has been a lovelier place.

Find it at Home Despot.