10/4 on Ballistol. Synthetic 0/20 weight motor oil and Marvel Mystery Oil are very useful as well.
I picked up a sample of Ballistol (from my locksmith, of all places) and used it on my inline muzzle loader. I was amazed at how well it took off the burned on carbon. Since then I have used it for cleaning all my guns, with good results. Still use Hoppe's #9 for the bore, though.
Wayne
What doesn't kill you makes you stronger - or else it gives you a bad rash.
Venison is free-range, organic, non-GMO and gluten-free
In my opinion you can take that WD-40 and stick it where the sun don't shine.
ATF, Dextron II or III works good, wipes almost dry, and leaves a lubricating layer that won't dry out and gum up like WD-40 does.
I truly believe we need to get back to basics.
Get right with the Lord.
Get back to the land.
Get back to thinking like our forefathers thought.
May the Lord bless you and keep you. May the Lord make His face to shine upon you and be gracious unto you
and give you His peace. Let all of the earth – all of His creation – worship and praise His name! Make His
praise glorious!
WD will also clean up the bluing on nickle steel barrels and take them back to white in a surprisingly short period of time when hunting water fowl ....... I'd rather go into it .
The assorted dry lubes also don't work well in the rain and snow below 10° ..... It's a fowl hobby but you loves it or you don't.
In the time of darkest defeat,our victory may be nearest. Wm. McKinley.
I was young and stupid then I'm older now. Me 1992 .
Richard Lee Hart 6/29/39-7/25/18
Without trial we cannot learn and grow . It is through our stuggles that we become stronger .
Brother I'm going to be Pythagerus , DiVinci , and Atlas all rolled into one soon .
I like WD-40 and have a lot of uses for it, but I don't use it for a lubricant.
I was working in the paint shop at Mercedes Benz when a man came walking through with a can of WD-40 in his hand. In about 2 seconds, 2 of the paint shop Mercedes guys grabbed him and took the can away from him and carried it and him outside the building, they were afraid he had WD residue on his clothing. When I asked what that was all about, the paint shop supervisor said that ANY amount of that stuff in the air that settled on a car body would cause the paint to not adhere to it.
IT AINT what ya shoot--its how ya shoot it. NONE of us are as smart as ALL of us!
never pick a fight with an old man - if he is too old to fight he will just kill you -
in this current crisis our government is not the solution , it is the problem ! -
ILLEGITIMI NON CARBORUNDUM
as they say in latin
WD-40 won't touch bluing on guns, but acid rain will. My Dad hunted ducks for decades with a fine Parker that he could ill afford. He waxed everything to keep rain off the metal. The gun was still near-mint when he finally passed on. I chose to let my brother have it, because at the time my life did not include duck-hunting, and the sod up and sold it.
Cognitive Dissident
WD40 seems like 95% MS (or ingredients similar to MS) and 5% waxy mineral oil.
I emptied the contents of a spraycan that lost it's pressure, into a Jar, sealed it.
A white milky substance separates from the clearish (yellow) liquid.
After I witnessed that, I Always shake a WD40 can before spraying.
I've coated a metal item with WD40 and some puddled in one area, a week or so later after it dried, that puddled area had a residue that felt waxy.
It's a great cleaner, cuz it's basically MS, which is a great cleaner.
It's leaves a waxy residue, which should displace water.
That's my 2˘ on WD40
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
“If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001
Pull up the MSDS. Don't have time now.
Cognitive Dissident
They don’t even allow synthetic gun oil in my county. I like it but not biodegradable, or toxic to the land. I like clp and rem oil for the protection of my guns. Good for the wood. Nice clean protective coating.
WD-40 is a light oil, and Stoddard Solvent, unless they've changed the formula again recently. When the Stoddard Solvent evaporates, it leaves the oil there. And eventually, even if that is the only thing left on the object, it will gum up. The stuff is great for short term use, and pretty good if you re-apply it frequently. If you need to put something down today and work on it again in a couple of days, it's fine. If it's going to be a couple of years, you may want to clean the WD-40 off and re-coat it with something else, though if you don't wait too long, just respraying it will work. I've used the stuff from coast to coast, and all over the interior Southern states, and several foreign countries. I had a plastic bin of old files I tried the acid resharpening process on. Muriatic acid for the sharpening. Washed them off in tap water, soaked for a bit in bicarbonate water, and then rinsed in tap water again, and filled the bin with WD-40. Every month or so, for more than two years, I'd spray some more WD-40 in there. When I need one of those files, I pull it out, spray it down again, and wipe it off with a paper towel or shop rag. A couple of the files that got taken out of that bin while I was getting another file got set aside, and they have rusted lightly again.
Bill
he gum is the residual [ oil ] left when loosened by it + not properly flushed out or blown out with air pressure -
https://files.wd40.com/pdf/sds/mup/w...sds-us-ghs.pdf
never pick a fight with an old man - if he is too old to fight he will just kill you -
in this current crisis our government is not the solution , it is the problem ! -
ILLEGITIMI NON CARBORUNDUM
as they say in latin
RemOil is another oil that will not go Gummy on you .
The light oil carrier , will in time dissipate , but ...it leaves behind a micro-thin film of dry-lube ( Teflon based) that stops rust and keeps things slick .
I like it ... try some if you have never used it .
All I use inside the lockworks and triggers of guns .
I have had Breakfree CLP go gummy so badly on a few of my guns that the guns wouldn't fire (Swiss rifle and S&W revolvers) I will never use it for guns stored away ...the stuff got so hard and gummy I had to scrub the residue out with brush and solvents ... Never Again !
Gary
Certified Cajun
Proud Member of The Basket of Deplorables
" Let's Go Brandon !"
CONTENTS: Ed's Red Bore Cleaner
1 part Dexron ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later.
1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1 (Lamp oil)
1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits (Stoddard Solvent, or "Varsol")
1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1.
(Optional 1 lb. of Lanolin, Anhydrous, USP per gallon, or OK to substitute Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant, from the drug store)
This will do everything you will ever need around guns except dissolve copper. The acetone can be omitted, but it won't dissolve smokeless powder fouling as quickly.
Will never "gum up" in a gun. With the lanolin added, it will rustproof steel for up to two years. Far better lubricity than WD-40. Dissolves Cosmoline pretty well.
Store only in tightly capped metal or glass, as the acetone will evaporate right through plastics, even if it does not dissolve them. I use the glass jars that Smuckers Natural Peanut Butter comes in for bulk storage, and a cleaned-out glass Kikkoman Soy Sauce bottle as dispenser. (The plastic cap holds up well.)
Cognitive Dissident
been using Ed's red for decades with no problems - it will not displace moisture like WD40 does - if you use the acetone formula do not let it touch wood finishes or plastic - it will also kill ant + termite colonies quickly -
never pick a fight with an old man - if he is too old to fight he will just kill you -
in this current crisis our government is not the solution , it is the problem ! -
ILLEGITIMI NON CARBORUNDUM
as they say in latin
A few years ago someone linked a long-term test of all the popular oils and Ballistol was one of the top performers.
Warning: I know Judo. If you force me to prove it I'll shoot you.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |