Does anyone cast and load slugs for 1 3/4 12 ga rounds?

[tayous1]

I was finally sent my 12 ga 7/8 Lee slug mold and have been trying to search around for reloading information. Mostly I'm trying to find a way that I don't have to cut down. I'm wanting to use my roll crimp for this if that helps at all thanks.

[longbow]

Lots of people here loading slugs. What specifically are you looking for? You should have gotten load data with your mould but if not here is load data for both the 7/8 oz. and 1 oz. Lee slugs:

https://leeprecision.com/files/instruct/SM%203529.pdf

Here is some load data from BPI:

https://www.ballisticproducts.com/load14_04_25.htm

Reloading info for 7/8 oz. slugs here too:

https://www.hodgdonreloading.com/reloading-data-center

There is data for several different hulls.

Also, if you aren't looking for high performance slug loads you can use birdshot load data for 7/8 oz. payload buit sub the 7/8 oz. slug. Wad/slug fit to bore should be checked as not all wads are suitable. Some are too thick and some are too thin. You need a snug fit of slug/wad in the bore to get decent accuracy.

And I'll add the obligatory safety warning... do not substitute components! If you are not familiar with shotshell, and especially slug, loading it is not like metallic cartridge loading. There are no dependable pressure signs to check except sticky hulls at extraction and that means you are way over pressure. Use published load data and do not substitute components especially primers and different wad types.

Are you using smoothbore or rifled gun? Either way I suppose you should put a 1/8" nitro card wad under the slug so the wad doesn't push into the cavity. I have had at least a couple of different wads jam into the cavity and either damage the wad so the gas seal blew or the wad stayed with the slug to the target and either way accuracy is poor. I will assume that the Lee data lists wads that do not need a nitro card wad under the slug and yes, I know Lee says the drive key grips the slug to transmit rotation from bore through wad to slug but if the wad fails it doesn't much matter.

I have loaded both Lee 7/8 oz. and Lee 1 oz. slugs into wads I have on hand and have had wad failures without using a nitro card wad under the slug.

It is also best to either use filler wads to raise the slug in the shotcup or use a single nitro card wad under the slug and trim the wad petals just above the straight portion of the slug. There some thread on this site with pics if you search for Lee slug loading.

Not sure what you mean by this "Mostly I'm trying to find a way that I don't have to cut down."

Yes, you can roll crimp. I would have thought that wad petals would be damaged opening a roll crimp but recovered wads were fine so either fold or roll crimping worked for me.

I hope that helps.

Longbow

[tayous1]

Lots of people here loading slugs. What specifically are you looking for? You should have gotten load data with your mould but if not here is load data for both the 7/8 oz. and 1 oz. Lee slugs:

https://leeprecision.com/files/instruct/SM%203529.pdf

Here is some load data from BPI:

https://www.ballisticproducts.com/load14_04_25.htm

Reloading info for 7/8 oz. slugs here too:

https://www.hodgdonreloading.com/reloading-data-center

There is data for several different hulls.

Also, if you aren't looking for high performance slug loads you can use birdshot load data for 7/8 oz. payload buit sub the 7/8 oz. slug. Wad/slug fit to bore should be checked as not all wads are suitable. Some are too thick and some are too thin. You need a snug fit of slug/wad in the bore to get decent accuracy.

And I'll add the obligatory safety warning... do not substitute components! If you are not familiar with shotshell, and especially slug, loading it is not like metallic cartridge loading. There are no dependable pressure signs to check except sticky hulls at extraction and that means you are way over pressure. Use published load data and do not substitute components especially primers and different wad types.

Are you using smoothbore or rifled gun? Either way I suppose you should put a 1/8" nitro card wad under the slug so the wad doesn't push into the cavity. I have had at least a couple of different wads jam into the cavity and either damage the wad so the gas seal blew or the wad stayed with the slug to the target and either way accuracy is poor. I will assume that the Lee data lists wads that do not need a nitro card wad under the slug and yes, I know Lee says the drive key grips the slug to transmit rotation from bore through wad to slug but if the wad fails it doesn't much matter.

I have loaded both Lee 7/8 oz. and Lee 1 oz. slugs into wads I have on hand and have had wad failures without using a nitro card wad under the slug.

It is also best to either use filler wads to raise the slug in the shotcup or use a single nitro card wad under the slug and trim the wad petals just above the straight portion of the slug. There some thread on this site with pics if you search for Lee slug loading.

Not sure what you mean by this "Mostly I'm trying to find a way that I don't have to cut down."

Yes, you can roll crimp. I would have thought that wad petals would be damaged opening a roll crimp but recovered wads were fine so either fold or roll crimping worked for me.

I hope that helps.

Longbow

I'm looking to load mini rounds the 1.75 inch ones. I have loaded birdshot and buckshot triming down the case to 2 inches over all all the shot and roll crimp it.

What I'm trying to get information about is do I need a wad for it or is the fiber wad that comes with birdshot enough? If it's better to have a wad or shot cup for the slug any suggestions?

My mold did not come with any load data for 1.75 inch shells and that has been a problem trying to find that information.

I have mostly been buying skeet rounds in bulk have a PVC pipe cut at 2 inches so stick the hull in there cut around it dump the shot out and pull the fiber wad inside it cut that in half stuff it back on top of the powder. Add Birdshot or buckshot roll crimp with a shot card on top.

I have made 200 rounds this way without any problems but bird and buck shot are different then a slug I would think. Since it's a smooth bore I'm not sure even if a shot cup or other then the fiber wad would be needed? Thanks

[longbow]

Okay then I guess I need to get my eyes checked! I didn't catch the 1 3/4" length and somehow read 2 3/4" so was a bit confused.

So, I don't have many answers except that yes, you need a shotcup witrh a Lee slug because they cast at about 0.685" so way undersize unless they are in a shotcup. You will get no accuracy at all if the slug rattles down trhe bore!

Also, I can say that you cannot safely use load data which has a cushion leg wad then simply replace the cusion leg with a card or fiber wad. The cusion leg gives at ignition creating more volume so mderating pressure. If you remove the cushion leg pressure may spike quickly depending on the powder used. From what I see, faster powders are worse than slower powders but that is from personal experience and looking at load data.

I was going to say to look at this thread but you already have:

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...ells&p=5175883

I guess that's all I've got, not a lot of help.

Longbow

[Plate plinker]

I load the Lyman giant pellet type. Fun to mess with.

[Harter66]

A RB might be better suited for your goals .
I don't have any time in with the specific case in point but I've shot a ton of 2-3/4 in 3" chambers. Even that close your at risk of occasionally rolling a petal back . Been there done it a lot . One of the advantages of the RB is that it can be loaded in a cup , or patched up to fit with just a gas seal of either plastic or stacked wads . This allows the use of such nifty wads as super trap or clay busters . The down side is that it weighs about 1-1/4 oz and low base hulls will be essential to get it all in the case .

Cruise Ballistic Products Inc . The seem to be the best loaded shotgun source around .

[rancher1913]

go buy a box of those shorty rounds and reverse engineer them

[FullTang]

You won't find many published loads for "shorty" shells, but the BP Manual has some 2" loads like this one: https://www.ballisticproducts.com/load18_04_27.htm
I've fiddled around with short shells, including slugs and round balls, and found they worked quite well in general, but they are extra work to assemble. My pumps and autos cycled most of the 2" shells reasonably well, but reliability declined when I tried going shorter. You'll need special wadding for most loads; they typically use a simple gas seal and/or nitro card for the shortest stack height. None of the loads I've seen are for slugs---they are all shot loads, which you'd need to adapt, if you're comfortable with that.

[Oubieone]

Hi @tayous1
Have you had any success exploring this route?
I'm very interested in your progress.

[longbow]

Something that may change load data availability:

https://saami.org/wp-content/uploads...-Approved-.pdf

I expect to see the powder manufacturer's websites update wirh load data shortly.

Longbow

[wilecoyote]

I was finally sent my 12 ga 7/8 Lee slug mold and have been trying to search around for reloading information. Mostly I'm trying to find a way that I don't have to cut down. I'm wanting to use my roll crimp for this if that helps at all thanks.

...same mold, Lee #90282_
to play soft with my 870 express magnum, I bought the cheapest non-magnum for birds, emptied the wad from the birdshots, and replaced the pellets with the 7/8 Lee pure lead slug_ then closed _
traditionally the pellet charge creates more pressure than a single slug, so I've never had any problems, staying on the safe side of my ignorance_

...cast from straight pipe lead works fine, just in case_

[tayous1]

...same mold, Lee #90282_
to play soft with my 870 express magnum, I bought the cheapest non-magnum for birds, emptied the wad from the birdshots, and replaced the pellets with the 7/8 Lee pure lead slug_ then closed _
traditionally the pellet charge creates more pressure than a single slug, so I've never had any problems, staying on the safe side of my ignorance_

...cast from straight pipe lead works fine, just in case_

I have loaded a few and that's what I did just bought low charge skeet rounds and loaded them with the slug. Same thing I did with my 000, 00 and #4 shot.

Been busy with work and have not shot them but wanting to build a few more to try out! The hand roll crimp helps so much.

[wilecoyote]

I have loaded a few and that's what I did just bought low charge skeet rounds and loaded them with the slug. Same thing I did with my 000, 00 and #4 shot.

Been busy with work and have not shot them but wanting to build a few more to try out! The hand roll crimp helps so much.

......
I don't know what shotgun you have, but certainly a traditional pump is the most forgiving for this type of experiment. it was also easy on my shoulder, too, compared to a full magnum recoil_

[trapper9260]

I had made up my own data to shoot short shells. For what the OP like to do , is you take the weight of the slug and convert it to the weight of the shot and then go from there. There is some data on shorts like was stated by BP . I also found some pumps can not cycle short shells for the way it is design . Just to give the heads up on it. The 1873 lever shotgun is no problem .