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Thread: Seating Stem for Lyman 457124

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy SoonerEd's Avatar
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    Seating Stem for Lyman 457124

    I'm using range lead at approximately 8.0 BHN. When I seat a 457124, which is a round nose, I get a ring from where the stem doesn't fit the nose profile. The die is a Redding.

    Anyone know where I can get a seater stem with the correct profile?

    or

    What is the best way to make one using epoxy including release agent for epoxy and how to keep the epoxy from glueing the stem to the inside of the die when trying to make the profile with epoxy in the stem, inside the seater to form the profile?

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Boolit Master

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    If you can prepare a case that will just barely have enough tension to hold the bullet( oversized neck expander or slits cut in the neck), put the seater with a blob of epoxy on it in the die, then carefully insert the waxed bullet and case into the die. After the epoxy sets remove the case and bullet and trim excess epoxy from the stem.
    Spell check doesn't work in Chrome, so if something is spelled wrong, it's just a typo that I missed.

  3. #3
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  4. #4
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    Devcon Liquid Steel Putty, best there is!

  5. #5
    Boolit Mold Pete57's Avatar
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    JB weld

  6. #6
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Don't use epoxy adhesive ... the liquid two-part kind ... it drips and runs and gets in places you don't want it to get .

    Use Epoxy Putty ... J-B Weld makes a two part epoxy putty , use the long curing not the quick setting . Long cure gets harder and gives you time to work .

    Clean nose punch cavity .
    Grease boolit (any grease will do as a release agent ) .
    Knead a small ball of epoxy putty , look at marks on boolits , use an amount of putty to fill the space above the marks on the boolits and place the kneaded ball into the nose cavity .
    Begin to size a boolit , go about 1/2 way into sizing die and look to see if any epoxy is oozing out , remove any... then make sure everything is in line and parrallel , straight and looking like everything lines up .
    Let epoxy cure , remove boolit and nose punch and make sure all is good .
    If you haven't put in enough putty the first time ... add a little more , set up in sizer again and let cure ... if the first time doesn't make a perfectly fitted nose punch ...
    the second time around will get the job done .

    If the nose punch is for a seating stem in a reloading die ... use same instructions but seat the boolt about 1/2 or 3/4 way into a case , make sure everything is in line and no epoxy putty is oozing out anywhere...using small amounts (balls ) in two steps is safer than a big blob ... the putty will ooze out and you must remove it ...grease all die parts , threads etc and if you see oozing into small apaces .. stop , clean out epoxy and start over .
    Gary
    Last edited by gwpercle; 06-01-2023 at 12:55 PM.
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  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy SoonerEd's Avatar
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    Thanks. Good ideas. Wasn't thinking about using a putty, but I have some I can use. I like the idea about the case prep and oiling the inside of the die. Plus rolling into a ball will help me control the amount. I've done these for punches but never done one inside a die where the oozing could be a problem.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check