Load DataWidenersMidSouth Shooters SupplyRotoMetals2
Lee PrecisionReloading EverythingInline FabricationTitan Reloading
Repackbox
Results 1 to 19 of 19

Thread: flame annealing

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Northeast
    Posts
    268

    flame annealing

    I built an annealler and it seems to function fine. The problem i am having is i can't get the brass neck to glow. I am using a brand new propane flame pencil torch and have gone from almost stopped to 100 percent and can't seem to to get the 6.5 grendel brass to glow. I have seen the vids and the average time in the flame is around 6 to 7 seconds. I have run from 7 sec to over 10 and it does not ever glow. I plan on getting some tempilaq next and maybe switching to mapp gas. Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    Farmerville,Louisiana
    Posts
    1,357
    Turn the lights out.
    "The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government..... When the people fear their government there is tyranny, when the government fears the people, there is liberty." Thomas Jefferson

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Northeast
    Posts
    268
    I did that. I am in the basement so real easy to get dark. I deliberately slowed it down to get a piece red hot and couldn't get it to glow.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    Farmerville,Louisiana
    Posts
    1,357
    Don’t know about the pencil torch, may not be enough BTU to get to that heat to make glow. I do know about soldering and you have to match the torch to the job.
    "The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government..... When the people fear their government there is tyranny, when the government fears the people, there is liberty." Thomas Jefferson

  5. #5
    Boolit Master

    pworley1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Mississippi
    Posts
    3,252
    I use one of these with my home made annealer. Most cases take 8 to 10 seconds the way I set mine.
    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzoma...2301/202539575
    NRA Benefactor Member NRA Golden Eagle

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Northeast
    Posts
    268

  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    5,283
    I may be doing it wrong, but I stop the flame heat before the neck glows red. Usually about a count of 5 or so +/-. Burns-o-matic torch heating the spinning cases which are in a tool in my variable speed hand drill. Goes pretty well.

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jan 2021
    Posts
    178
    What part of the torch flame is your brass hitting? If it's in the yellow part of the flame adjust it till the point of the inner blue flame (hottest part of the flame) is just hitting the brass. This may help.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master

    rancher1913's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    plains of colorado
    Posts
    3,640
    sometimes getting that kind of glow is counter productive, you just need to get to the proper temp for solong, you can easily over do it.
    if you are ever being chased by a taxidermist, don't play dead

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Western PA
    Posts
    1,286
    watch some videos. Color change is all your looking for. Red hot is too hot.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master gc45's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    wash
    Posts
    522
    Try using a bernz tourch, more flame than a pencil type. I use an old 45 record player to turn my brass holding the flame, blue tip, just off the neck. 5-6 seconds is all.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Posts
    3,702
    Quote Originally Posted by Teddy (punchie) View Post
    watch some videos. Color change is all your looking for. Red hot is too hot.
    you will see some colour change in the flame (green) around the case where you are heating it = enough

  13. #13
    Boolit Master 243winxb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    2,837
    A torch flame consists of two cones, an outer light blue flame and an inner dark blue flame. The hottest point in the flame can be found at the tip of the inner flame. 2237 degrees F.

    Red glow, BAD.

  14. #14
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    West Kootenays, British Columbia
    Posts
    318
    You do NOT want to have the case neck glow...if you hit cherry red, it's pooched. Get some Tempilaq 750 and paint it on the inside of the neck. Once that colored Tempilaq turns clear, it's done. Drop it on a cloth and let it cool on it's own.

  15. #15
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Northeast
    Posts
    268
    I tried to get it red hot to see if i could. 10 seconds with the center blue flame almost touching the neck and shoulder junction, never saw a glow. ordered some tempilaq.

  16. #16
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    10,572
    I watch the color of the neck. Brass turns a 'wheat' color when at proper anneal temp. When it cools you will see the anneal line on the shoulder - sort of silvery looking often with a blue 'ring'.
    Whatever!

  17. #17
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    14,455
    I anneal in a lead pot of silica sand very fine sand. The pot is brought up to 775* and left to normalize for 40-45 mins. The "rack holds 12 cases around the edge of the pot. so cases soak in the sand for 13-15 seconds. I only get a very light color change on the brass. Part of this is the lack of oxygen and other impurities in the hot sand. I get a very consistent even annealing this way.

    Having discussed this with metallurgists at work and starline the consensus is the lack of oxygen is the reason for the light color change, The heat and soak time are doing the job with out the discoloration.

    I think we put more in the annealing colors than is needed. THey are a by product of the impurities of the flame methods and working in an open atmosphere

  18. #18
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    10,572
    Color change is due to changing reflectivity of the changed grain stucture of brass. The 'ring' is due to oxidation of the copper. It's all surface changes that can be polished away, as commercial brass is often polished. Mil brass oftenisn't to verifythat it was formed properly (or to reduce by the cost of polishing?).
    Whatever!

  19. #19
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Northeast
    Posts
    268
    Got my tempilaq today. painted 6 pcs. Ran thru and adjusted till i got the right cycle on my annealer. Turns out my speed needs to be set at 60.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check