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Thread: What hog ring pliers to get?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
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    What hog ring pliers to get?

    This will not be a lifelong use tool, so I want what is affordable of course. I see several kinds. I see several sizes of rings. I need to makes loops in barbed wire and attach to the top of a chain link fence. I have never used ring nose pliers. Dewalt has one that loads like a stapler with 11/16 rings. Is this the finished size when crimped? Will it close tighter? Will that set of pliers be limited to 11/16 or could it take smaller rings? I tried reading the add info, no luck. You fellows know.

    I have some experience working with barbed wire and know how dangerous it is. Like a spring if you let it go, or gets slack on the spool. To make matters worse, there is really no spool, it is wound tight and stays together while tied off. I'm gonna have fun taking loops off that tube. Is there a spool for these things to mount in, like to hang on a bumper and allow it to unwind with some tension? Something to make would be easy enough I think.

    Thanks in advance,
    Jim
    Most of the tanks are gone and the windows don't rattle anymore. I won't be able to sleep now.

  2. #2
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    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
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    Ask the guys at where they sell rolls of barbed wire what most people use.
    That, and even if it's a one time use--- I'd get the best and most heavy duty ones there is.

    If the el-cheapo one fails, and a big chunk of wire springs back and hits you in the face:
    You'll be questioning how great of a bargain they really were.
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  3. #3
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    When we worked on fences on Grandpa's farm the barbed wire was on a spool that clamped it from both sides, and it had a brake you adjusted with a knob so it can't free spool. Don't drop the free end though! It will zoom back at the roll and a couple turns will unwind like a clock spring. And tangle...

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    I know it's not usable like it is, 1320' coiled and just waiting to spin open. There has to be some contraption for these to be used more safely.
    Most of the tanks are gone and the windows don't rattle anymore. I won't be able to sleep now.

  5. #5
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    Mk42gunner's Avatar
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    1. Hog ring pliers. I have only ever used the old ones that do one ring at a time, and if the ring (open) would fit into it, it would crimp it. I have not used one to put rings in a hog's nose, but they work exceptionally well to attach upholstery to heavy wire frames.

    2. Barbed wire. From the sound of it, you have a roll of used wire. Unfortunately there is no way I know of to unroll that mess without getting tangles. Just go slow and think before you release more than you can handle at once.

    The only unrollers I know of work with factory rolls.

    You don't know what tangles are until you work with concertina wire. It is like barbed wire on steroids, razors instead of barbs.

    Robert

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    Last edited by Kenstone; 05-27-2023 at 10:13 PM. Reason: add link
    Size/Prime a few cases when starting off with a progressive and put them aside. You can plug them back into the process when a bad/odd case screws up in the priming station and continue loading.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master schutzen-jager's Avatar
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    mine

    never used on barbed wire but have used these for over 30 years for upholstery + connecting wire + cable sections - no manufacturers names on them - the larger spring loaded ones in center are more user friendly
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  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    used wire
    This was new from an unwrapped pallet at Tractor Supply. Nifty(?) white plastic core with carry handle. No sides.

    This mount is a version of what I remember from somewhere. This roll is just like what I have.

    https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...All%20Products
    Last edited by daengmei; 05-28-2023 at 08:50 AM.
    Most of the tanks are gone and the windows don't rattle anymore. I won't be able to sleep now.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
    contender1's Avatar
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    To work & twist barbed wire into loops etc is different than using hog ring pliers. This would require fencing pliers.

    As noted above,, go to a real farm supply place & ask the oldest worker there what the real farmers/ranchers use to fulfill your needs.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    Old lawn mower handles work okay to unroll. The loop will happen on there own. Stand the bale on the flat end and take from the top. I will loop. The handle un-twister is not what I call a good idea. Bales are too heavy to hold off to your side and have it untwist. I made one from old 3/8 gas pipe.

    Last fall we made a stand to hold the bales and ran wire 300 ft. over the hill it worked okay. better then trying to walk the bale down a 55% grade slopping two directions. Mandy and I have a rough day that day.

    I would use good tie wire to hold it on. Even copper would work. Not sure where to get hog rings at, have somewhere.

    Best way to cut it is with small bolt cutters. Normal pliers are junk, good lineman's pliers work butt can be damaging the pier.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    Old lawn mower handles with a rod through, work okay to unroll. The loop will happen on there own. Stand the bale on the flat end and take from the top. I will loop. The handle un-twister is not what I call a good idea. Bales are too heavy to hold off to your side and have it untwist. I made one from old 3/8 gas pipe. A square with a long T for handle, the bottom square goes into the middle of the bale.

    Last fall we made a stand to hold the bales and ran wire 300 ft. over the hill it worked okay. better then trying to walk the bale down a 55% grade slopping two directions. Mandy and I have a rough day that day. ....... We took T-posts and made an X placing the bottom in the ground say a foot, this on an angle and some 2.5' apart. Spacing the center of the X 2' above the ground and 3' apart. Now lay one T-post across. making a funny looking rack to hold the bale. We used what we had copper wire and twine to hold the rack together, I'm sure it looked like so red neck made it but it worked.

    I would use good tie wire to hold it on. Even copper would work. Not sure where to get hog rings at, have somewhere.

    Best way to cut it is with small bolt cutters. Normal pliers are junk, good lineman's pliers work butt can be damaging to the piers.

    Biggest thing to remember is you need to think of what the wire may do. Have someone around but not to close. If your pulling/stretching/laying wire. The wire it may spring back if the load is taken off. I have tied rocks, laid rocks, logs anything on the tail end to keep it from springing back. Get to the end of a bale only to have 100' of the tail spring back into a coiled mess up knot. You don't do that too many times, you learn to tie it down some way. The wire is all ways wanting to recoil back to the bale.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
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    Tie it off, weighing it down, and being careful as possible is in the plan.

    Thanks for every response.
    Jim
    Most of the tanks are gone and the windows don't rattle anymore. I won't be able to sleep now.

  13. #13
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    Do not loosen the fence stretcher before your hog ring is tight!!!
    [The Montana Gianni] Front sight and squeeze

  14. #14
    Boolit Master
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    Do not loosen the fence stretcher before your hog ring is tight!!!
    I got ya, thanks!
    Jim
    Most of the tanks are gone and the windows don't rattle anymore. I won't be able to sleep now.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check