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Thread: Is anyone selling plug & Play PID's here?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
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    South West Ohio
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    Is anyone selling plug & Play PID's here?

    Is anyone selling plug & play PIDs here? I bought one here a few years back and am very happy with it. I want to buy another one, maybe two more. I don't know if things have changed at all since I bought mine.
    I'd really like to have a nice professionally done one from someone who's put together about a million of them.
    [

  2. #2
    Boolit Master huntinlever's Avatar
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    Sorry I can't help you with a purpose-built as I built mine with pretty easily obtainable components. Wanted to learn more, why I did it. Totally get just wanting to buy one.

    Also sorry for a hijack OT, but I haven't seen a PID discussion come up in awhile. I built a PID for a cheese vat, making hard, long-aged cellar cheeses. I went back to manually controlling fire, as the overruns were not at all close to target temps no matter what I did. How do you guys get it so your target alloy temp stays within reasonable range?
    -Paul

  3. #3
    Boolit Master Wheelguns 1961's Avatar
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    I got one from hatch on here. It looks good, and it works great! I highly recommend his pid’s.
    Due to the price of primers, warning shots will no longer be given!

  4. #4
    Boolit Master


    foesgth's Avatar
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    I got one from hatch also. If you pc get 2 probes. Then you can install one in your oven and one for your lead pot.
    Remember the Law of Probability - The probability of being watched is directly proportional to the stupidity of your act.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    I'll drop him a note. Thanks!
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  6. #6
    ADMIN



    HATCH's Avatar
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    I have a listing in the S&S section



    Quote Originally Posted by huntinlever View Post
    How do you guys get it so your target alloy temp stays within reasonable range?
    Quality PID controllers have a feature called ‘AutoTune’. I will explain how it works in easy to understand basic terms.
    Every PID controller has factory settings.
    These settings cover how long it takes to heat up, how long it takes for the heat to stop after power has been removed (overshoot) and how long it takes to cool before it needs to turn the heat back on.
    The default settings will work for most applications but you will have a larger window of temperature it will operate in. Example - your set point is 750f. The default settings may allow it to operate in a +/- 50 f range. Meaning it will heat to 750 and turn off but the pot will still be warmer then the set point and you end up potentially with 800 degree lead. As it cools, it may turn the heat back on at 740 but the lead may cool to 700 before the pot gets back up to 700.
    Your home does the same thing. You may set the thermostat at 74 but in reality it can be 72 or 76 before it cuts off or cuts on depending if heating or cooling.

    AutoTune allows the factory settings to be overwritten to how your pot operates.

    I tell all my customers to run AutoTune when they first get their PID. Basically insert the probe, melt the lead, allow the lead to cool back to near room temp. Then turn the PID on and run AutoTune.
    It may take up to a hr to learn everything but typically you will end up with +/- 5 degrees.
    Shoot me a PM with what PID you got and I can see what I can do to help you

    Charles
    Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
    The rules are simple to follow.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check