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Thread: 22's and Early Squirrel Season

  1. #21
    Boolit Grand Master Tripplebeards's Avatar
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    I was afraid to sand near my lettering as well. The JM stamping was very shallow to begin with so I hardly sanded that ares. Usually I submerge my barrel in vinegar for a few days but I couldn't get me recovered pin out so I refinished the barrel attached to it. I sanded very little and lightly with 400 grit. Brownell's told me to try wetting 0000 steel wool with Oxpho blue and rub it in wet to try and get a darker finish. I don't think it got it any darker but was worth a try. If anything I think it made it lighter and removed some bluing so I applied a few more coats the normal way after wards. I will tape off the barrel before I start sanding and painting the receiver. If it's not a shooter luckily I have a few other 22's I'm my arsenal that are tac drivers. Just funnier to shoot the stuff to me. I haven't owned a 22 rifle in decades...just pistols. I have a bunch I've acquired in the last couple years. A cz452 ultralux super exclusive, Anchutz Woodchucker, Remington speedmaster, Winchester 1902 boys rifle(I just sold), a 6mm flobert, a ruger American 22 wmr (my favorite)? and the two above. Forgot I bought one of the H&K mp5 clones but never shot and sold it off a few years back. I just like the hunting rifle configurations. Seems like the 22 wmr normally gets picked in the first line draft every time.
    Last edited by Tripplebeards; 06-05-2023 at 04:37 PM.

  2. #22
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    Mk42gunner's Avatar
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    The rifle on top in the picture, (I'm assuming the Sears Model 3T) looks an awful lot like a Winchester Model 190. Except for the fact the buttstock meets the receiver in a straight line, my 190 buttstock has an angled point.

    Good job on the Coast to Coast/Marlin.

    Robert

  3. #23
    Boolit Grand Master Tripplebeards's Avatar
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    Yes it's a rebranded Winchester 190. The only difference is the flat design of the stock fitting to the receiver. The T3 is in really good shape. It's just missing the rear sight ladder.
    Last edited by Tripplebeards; 06-05-2023 at 09:31 PM.

  4. #24
    Boolit Grand Master Tripplebeards's Avatar
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    Just painted with engine paint I'll wait a few days and put it all back together can't wait to get it out and pull the trigger. I also ordered a 10 round Factory magazine off eBay for it today. There's a couple of dust specs on it I can see in the photos that wiped right off.


  5. #25
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    Shaping up quite nicely, 3B. We'll be waiting for the range report soon.

  6. #26
    Boolit Grand Master Tripplebeards's Avatar
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    I put it all back together and tighten it up and I heard a pop! One side of my stock repair let loose and cracked again. The rest of the gun looks like brand new, but I have to redo the crack round two. I walked away from it for a few days, cause riled me up because I thought it was all done. After a few days, I’m sure I’ll go back at it when I don’t have a sour taste in my mouth from all the hard work I put into it and have to start over again.





    Cracked again. The other side held and I can’t really see where I repaired it on that side. This one was the problem child. I really couldn’t spread it apart. I’m going to get aggressive and try and spread it apart and then put it back together like I did before it dries. I figured that compression that made it crack will compress it down with the glue and hold it this time?



    My 10 round OEM blued magazine showed up yesterday. I’ll have to make sure it fits and looks in place.

    I was pretty bummed that it cracked again. Oh well project not over yet.


    Well I sanded it this morning in just that spot I tried to spread the crack apart but I can't because it's not all the way through to the back side.
    I stained and colored the area then applied 2 part expoxy over it. I then cranked down the action screws to clamp it together. It raised the wood around the crack. I scraped it off with my fingernail. It still felt tailed so I sanded and started over again with the actuon screws torqued in place yet. I could see craters that were not filled in so applied 2 part expoxy over the area again. I'll let it sit for a day or two and sand the expoxy smooth. I'll then disassemble and apply some more coats of tru oil over it. I will make sure not to torque down the screws as tight when I reassemble it.
    Last edited by Tripplebeards; 06-14-2023 at 02:03 PM.

  7. #27
    Boolit Master
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    The joy's, or not so joy's, of rehabbing an older rifle. Your finish work looks very nice. Now just to hold the stock together strong enough to keep it from spreading apart again. At least the 22lr doesn't recoil to break the epoxy loose.

  8. #28
    Boolit Grand Master Tripplebeards's Avatar
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    Thanks for the tip. I thought about it the other day when it was cracked because I applied too much force tightening down the action screws. So this time I sanded it with the action screws tight, so it was smooth. I took the stack out and applied two-part Apoxsee and then tighten it again. I first stained it otherwise imo it would be lighter the expoy and then it would stick out like a sore thumb. I then tighten the action screws. It still was raised. I peeled off the Apoxsee, that wasn’t completely set on top with my fingernail. I then sanded again, and then staned and then anpplied epoxy over it again. This time the actions action screws were already in and hand torqued. It’s been sitting for a couple of days now, letting the epoxy Harden. I might try and sand it later today. We’ll see. That’ll apply some more quarts of true oil and I’ll make sure not to tighten down real hard this time around.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check