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Thread: simple question

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    Oct 2013
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    simple question

    What hardness should I go for if I want no expansion at 1250 fps? Straight line penetration is the goal. I do powdercoat, not sure if that makes a difference. I only have COWW and pewter on hand, can I get by with that or will I need to go harder? BTW I do not have a hardness tester, just use the alloy calculator on here to get me close. I had used some 3-3-94 alloy this past year for deer hunting and it worked very well, but I am afraid that even at 1250 fps it would expand a bit? Thanks

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
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    Cast of COWW Powder coat and when removing from the oven, quench in water. See how that does.

  3. #3
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    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
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    I'd get a RN mold and develop the most accurate load.
    In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
    In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.


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  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master fredj338's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Winger Ed. View Post
    I'd get a RN mold and develop the most accurate load.
    RN dont typically penetrate in a straight line. A WNFP will fly straighter thru any medium. I agree, save the pewter, water dropped clip ww are not deforming much on meat @ 1250fps.
    EVERY GOOD SHOOTER NEEDS TO BE A HANDLOADER.
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  5. #5
    Boolit Master
    contender1's Avatar
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    No matter the alloy,, if you powder coat,, and bake the paint on,, you are annealing the alloy. To harden them,, do as shown,, water quench them right out of the PC oven.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master Doughty's Avatar
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    If you want to get the most for your efforts, I suggest that you get your oven temperature over 400* and that you leave them in the oven at temperature for at least an hour. Then in less than 3 seconds from oven to water. Water doesn't need to be iced. I then try to size within a day. I then let them continue to harden for two weeks. Then check to make sure that the dimensions that are important to you are correct. Then load and shoot. Simple answer?
    AKA "Old Vic"
    "I am a great believer in powder-burning".
    --Theodore Roosevelt, Hunting Trips of a Ranchman

  7. #7
    Boolit Master


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    Back in 1970 when I started casting for my .41 S&W 57, all I used was straight COWW's. I cast and shot thousands of'm. Of course, back then ww's were as plentiful as fritos corn chips. Still using ww's, but I add some tin/pewter for giggles. I've shot two deer with the wheel weight boolits (410459). Both went through. I've dug them out of dirt banks, and they don't deform to much at all if any. From what I've read, Elmer Keith mostly used 16-1 lead/tin for his handgun cast boolits. Even in his 44 magnum loads. If he had any problems with that alloy not penetrating , I'm sure he would've changed things around. COWW's are just fine.
    If a 41 won't stop it, I wouldn't bet my life on a 44.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    I have a question about your question, I will keep it simple. Why? Why would you want to go to the trouble to cast a lead bullet that will not deform when you can buy them that way? Either jacketed or very hard cast. unless you just like experimenting.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check