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Thread: Body Filler

  1. #1
    Boolit Master



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    Body Filler

    What would you suggest as the best body filler you have used?
    I have some work to do on my older truck and I appreciate your suggestions.
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  2. #2
    Boolit Master
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    Lead

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master Nobade's Avatar
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    I've used a lot of Duraglas, it works well. But yeah, lead is by far the best if you can work with it.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master



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    I don't have the skills necessary to use lead, I'll check out Duraglas.
    Thanks.
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  5. #5
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    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
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    If you're working on a spot that needs to be strong and has a lot of vibration-
    short strand fiberglass such as Duraglass is great.

    If you have a low spot that isn't under much stress or places that are thin, less than 1/8"-
    Any of the premium brand light weight fillers are fine. And, they are MUCH easier to work and sand down.
    The filler in them is super fine sized glass beads.

    Whichever you use, surface prep is most of the job.
    Any filler needs pretty deep scratches from a grinder to hang on.
    It isn't really like glue. It needs a rough surface so it can hang on the body shell like a cat does on a screen door.

    For little pin holes, or the feather edges of the filler use a premium spot putty/filler like the ones made by 3M.
    If you do a thick layer of spot putty, or use the cheap stuff--- it shrinks over time if the car is out in the sun much.
    In a year or so, you'll probably see a 'ghost' of where cheap fillers were used or improperly done.
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  6. #6
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    It WILL depend on how old the truck is. At some time, the alloy of the steel used was changed. It is now called HSLA steel, for "High Strength Low Alloy". I actually posted a similar question some time ago; discovered that the usual 'old school' methods did not apply! Problem? I have not been able to determine when that changeover occurred. Check YouTube for body working videos from Eastwood and Wray Schelin; good info!
    Lead Forever!


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  7. #7
    Boolit Master



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    Quote Originally Posted by Bloodman14 View Post
    It WILL depend on how old the truck is. At some time, the alloy of the steel used was changed. It is now called HSLA steel, for "High Strength Low Alloy". I actually posted a similar question some time ago; discovered that the usual 'old school' methods did not apply! Problem? I have not been able to determine when that changeover occurred. Check YouTube for body working videos from Eastwood and Wray Schelin; good info!
    Thanks, I will do so.
    Gun control is not about guns.

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy

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    I'm retired ASE Master collision/refinishing tech, how old is "old" and what kind of work do you need to do?

  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy
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    If you are really looking for the best, awlfare is hard to beat. Could be hard to find depending on where you are though.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master



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    My Ford Ranger is 16 years old.
    I have to repair rusty holes in the qurter panels (caused by the anti-icing materials they put on our highways in the winter).
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  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy

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    Quote Originally Posted by wch View Post
    My Ford Ranger is 16 years old.
    I have to repair rusty holes in the qurter panels (caused by the anti-icing materials they put on our highways in the winter).
    Mine is older, '04, can assure you it is ''modern" steel.

















    '

  12. #12
    Boolit Master



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    Thank you.
    Gun control is not about guns.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check