Murf you can surely try as cast. I use the NOE sizing system so I usually buy 3-4 for the caliber I am shooting because he sells them cheap. Hope it shoots lights out for you!
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Murf you can surely try as cast. I use the NOE sizing system so I usually buy 3-4 for the caliber I am shooting because he sells them cheap. Hope it shoots lights out for you!
I should have bought the NOE system a long time ago. Now I have a bunch of the Lee's, EXCEPT the ones I need at the time. The plunge into the Micro Groove water is going to be a new experience for me but I have read too many post about how our members here have it figured out so my "support group" is large and knowledgeable.
I see that Sage has .015 and .017 gas checks. If I use the Lee 170 gr GC mold, is the thicker check a benefit? I don't have a boolit to measure the base diameter where the check goes.
Last edited by murf205; 05-23-2023 at 08:18 AM.
IT AINT what ya shoot--its how ya shoot it. NONE of us are as smart as ALL of us!
A number of times when I put the cash on the table, the seller quickly accepted my offer.
I bought a boat the same way. Spread the money and you will find out how serious the seller is.
IT AINT what ya shoot--its how ya shoot it. NONE of us are as smart as ALL of us!
Yes, bu a mold and see if you can wear it out.
My Winchesters and Marlins both like the Lee 170 at .310 with a standard aluminum gas check. They are being sized down, so I would guess they drop around .311. The RCBS 150 is a really good one also. Mine do great with 24 grains Reloder 7 or H335 with either boolit.Originally Posted by murf205
Currently casting and loading: .32 Auto, .380 Auto, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .257 Roberts, 6.5 Creedmoor, .30 WCF, .308 WCF.
That's good news about the aluminum checks since Sage's is currently out of copper ones. I have not cast for a rifle before but I figure I have selected the most rookie friendly caliber to start with. My 358 Norma has been used with commercial cast with great results. That Accurate Molds catalogue is also a candy store. What sizer are you using to get a .310 boolit?
Last edited by murf205; 05-24-2023 at 02:03 PM.
IT AINT what ya shoot--its how ya shoot it. NONE of us are as smart as ALL of us!
I just use a regular RCBS or Lyman die (don't remember which) and a flat nose punch. Lube is whatever is in the sizer, usually RCBS 80008. Aluminum checks from James Sage are all I use and they work great. Hint: their regular .357 checks will work on many plain base boolits including the excellent Lee 358-158-RF.
Currently casting and loading: .32 Auto, .380 Auto, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .257 Roberts, 6.5 Creedmoor, .30 WCF, .308 WCF.
If I order the Accurate Mold in the pic, I will probably specify a .310, they usually drop .002. Have you had any problems with leading in your Marlin? My gun is a 1969 model and it isn't stamped "Micro Groove" but from looking down the barrel, it looks like one. It was spotless when I bought it.
IT AINT what ya shoot--its how ya shoot it. NONE of us are as smart as ALL of us!
Congratulations, I think you did well!
U.S.A. " RIDE FOR THE BRAND OR LEAVE!"
I looked at the Accurate Molds order process and for the boolit in the previous post and there is a space to select the bore riding diameter. Is there an advantage to a smaller diameter bore riding band as opposed to the full diameter or should it be full diameter?
IT AINT what ya shoot--its how ya shoot it. NONE of us are as smart as ALL of us!
My Glenfield 30 is an unnamed Micro Groove also. Never had a problem with leading in any of my .30-30's, Winny or Marlin. Gas check, good lube, and proper sizing is what it takes. I should add I don't push them incredibly hard, maybe 1800 fps or so. For deer and varmints out to 100 yards I don't see any need for more than that. If you place the slug where it needs to go it will do the job. In fact, my jacketed loads are not much faster than that and they still make things go dead just fine.
Currently casting and loading: .32 Auto, .380 Auto, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .257 Roberts, 6.5 Creedmoor, .30 WCF, .308 WCF.
I agree, it doesn't take a nuclear device to kill a deer. Tom just answered an email and told me that if a mold is for a bore rider, it should be full diameter. In other words, if it is a .310 mold, the most forward bore riding band should be .310 as well. I had to ask that question because in his order options, there is a place for a different bore riding band. Lot's of options, thanks Tom and all the rest of you all who furnished the good advice.
IT AINT what ya shoot--its how ya shoot it. NONE of us are as smart as ALL of us!
haven't you guys been reading up on the 30-30? Those bullets will literally bounce off a whitetail. hmmm, It appears that todays deer are a rare hybrid that contains multiple layers of carbon fiber that deflects bullets and a .600whizbangsupermagnumdeerassassin is the required minimum. sheez some people just don't keep up with the times. Silly man thinks if you take a 30-30 170 grain Lead ( ooo! scary lead) projectile and put it in the heart/lung area of a deer they will die hardy harhar har. Silly guys.
I'm looking at the Accurate ordering form now and I think you are misinterpreting it somewhat. The Bore Ride Diameter is referring to the entire cylindrical portion of the nose which is a nominal .3 inches diameter in the drawing. If you make it much larger than that, you won't be able to chamber a round. This portion of the bullet is not supposed to engage the rifling but instead, as the name implies, "ride" on top of the rifling in the true "bore".
The way the ordering form is set up, you don't have a specific block to request the diameter of the front driving band (the one in front of the crimp groove). Well, unless you use the Special Note section.
I use this same basic design in 35 caliber for my 35 Remington (36-200A). Also am awaiting delivery on the 32 caliber version this design (32-180A) for my 32 Winchester Special. Obviously I like the bullet and I bet you will too!
So what you are saying s that the nose body is the bore rider and it t the same diameter as the lands (not grooves) in the barrel-rght?
IT AINT what ya shoot--its how ya shoot it. NONE of us are as smart as ALL of us!
Correct. To insure reliability, I would order the bore-rider nose diameter at the true bore diameter (nominally .3) with a tolerance of +.000/-.002. That way you can't get a bullet too large to fit.
Got it. Thanks for sorting this out. I guess was leading a jaded life just being a wheel gun junkie.
IT AINT what ya shoot--its how ya shoot it. NONE of us are as smart as ALL of us!
Glad to help what little I can.The ordering process at Accurate is a bit intimidating because you have to set dimensions yourself. I agonized over it a while myself before getting the 35 caliber mold.
I have found that the Accurate molds are spot on. They drop +.002 if ordered that way just like Tom say's. I ordered my 158gr 357 mold at .358 and it drops at .360 and pc's to .361 which is perfect for my S&W 33-1 which is a 38 S&W caliber.
IT AINT what ya shoot--its how ya shoot it. NONE of us are as smart as ALL of us!
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