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Thread: Savage 110 Barrel Swap for a Newbie

  1. #1
    Boolit Master AnthonyB's Avatar
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    Savage 110 Barrel Swap for a Newbie

    Fellas:
    I recently bought a Savage 110 Magpul Hunter in 308 Win. I like the 308 Win cartridge and will use the rifle as is, but also believe the best use of 308 Win brass is in making 358 Win brass.
    This rifle will be a switch barrel with a barrel profile fitting the Hunter stock if at all possible. My search-fu is weak, and I have a few questions:
    1. Best tools for the barrel swap job? I THINK I know what I need, but assume I know nothing. Any brands in particular for barrel/action vise and nut wrench? Go and No-Go gauges?
    2. Best manufacturer for the barrel? I want cast friendly for everything from plinkers to the Ideal 3589.
    All input appreciated.
    Tony

  2. #2
    Boolit Master Moleman-'s Avatar
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    I have the wheeler nut wrench with both nut sizes on it, self made action wrench/vise and a mix of Cylmer and Manson Go/No-go gauges. Watch this video by Criterion. It's pretty simple. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6OP0XuvWR_Q

  3. #3
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    Talking to the Savage 110 repair man that works for them, but not in their factory told me for a switch barrel he would torque to certain figure to insure it's the same for each barrel when swapping them. If I remember correctly he said about 40 pounds.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    I have the Wheeler Barrel Wrench also.
    When I swap out the barrels it is easier to get everything going if you have a barrel Vise and the right sized blocks to hold the barrel.
    But on a lot of the rifles.
    Just clamping the barrel blocks in a regular vise worked good.
    I do set my headspace with a headspace gauge.
    But have switched out barrels using a Brand New Factory Cartridge and set it so the bolt closes with a little drag as I would set it with a Go Gauge.
    The only Savage 110 that I still have is a .30-06 and it is Left Handed.

  5. #5
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    Texas by God's Avatar
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    Buy a 110 takeoff barrel in any short action caliber and send it to JES to rebore to .358 Win.
    That way your stock will work with both barrels.
    And no worry about whether it will work for cast.
    Just extra thoughts to consider.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  6. #6
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    Good advice above but for your application a No-Go gauge is not needed. With the barrel nut system it's easy to set headspace so you feel a slight resistance just as the bolt fully closes. If you add a piece of scotch tape to the base of the go gauge that will add about a .0015. Two layers will be about .003".
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by M-Tecs View Post
    Good advice above but for your application a No-Go gauge is not needed. With the barrel nut system it's easy to set headspace so you feel a slight resistance just as the bolt fully closes. If you add a piece of scotch tape to the base of the go gauge that will add about a .0015. Two layers will be about .003".
    I swap two barrels on my Savage M12 Competition, both 308Ws; A Savage Palma barrel with 13" twist and a Savage Match barrel w/10" twist. Since I shoot my own reloads in both I use 3 cases FL sized with my RCBS X-Die to set the "headspace" when installing either barrel. Both barrels give a very slight crush fit with some factory but most chambers perfectly. Yes, I have a headspace die but I prefer to set the chamber headspace to fit what i size the cases to not some arbitrary measurement.

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    Last edited by Larry Gibson; 05-19-2023 at 10:18 PM.
    Larry Gibson

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  8. #8
    Boolit Master AnthonyB's Avatar
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    Fellas:
    Thanks for the responses. I now know there is more that I didn't know than I knew before!
    The tip on JES is worth the cost of the thread alone; I hadn't thought of that. But I am smart enough to ask better questions now.

    Larry:
    I think I understand the tip on using sized cases to set headspace, but have a few questions. I have always neck-sized for bolt actions (realize that isn't the preferred method for most anymore, but it was what I read in everything when I was a kid) until I had to bump the shoulder back, but that seems now to be out of favor in exchange for a consistent "shoulder bump." I think I understand that using fired, sized cases to set headspace helps limit case stretching and improves fit of case to chamber. Next question follows from that understanding and I may be hosed from the start, but do you just set the sizing die and never change it? I have never used a lock ring on any die and have always "set" my dies depending on what I wanted to do.
    As I mentioned, a newbie learning new things and I appreciate all the help from everyone.
    Tony

    EDIT: Still thinking on that "set the chamber headspace to fit what i size the cases to not some arbitrary measurement." That is making much sense as I think on it...
    Last edited by AnthonyB; 05-20-2023 at 01:30 AM. Reason: Added comment

  9. #9
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    If you use a Headspace Go Gauge.
    Then the headspace is set correctly for factory or properly sized ammo.
    If you use a brand new unfired cartridge to set your headspace.
    You are very close to factory specifications.
    Now if you set your headspace with a resized and reloaded case.
    Your dimensions might be a little different than Standard headspacing dimensions.
    Those reloaded cartridges will headspace properly to what you set the barrel with Those cartridges.
    BUT.
    That headspace set up might not be exactly the same as Factory Standards.
    Especially if you Neck Sized that case only.
    It might be a few thousands longer or even a little shorter.
    I prefer to use something that is Standard dimensions so I can fire any round new or properly reloaded of that caliber safely .
    Last edited by LAGS; 05-20-2023 at 02:03 AM.

  10. #10
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    "Next question follows from that understanding and I may be hosed from the start, but do you just set the sizing die and never change it?"

    Yes I do set the lock ring. I set it at minimal headspace for the cartridge. I have a set of [Redding I believe?] shell holders that can increase the headspace of that cartridge in .002 increments to .010".

    An easy alternative is to gets some .002 shim stock and make 5 U shaped shims to fit under the lock ring. With those you can also set adjust the cartridge headspace to fit individual chambers out .00 at a time using one or more shims. Unless the chambers of both rifles have been finish reamed with the same reamer the odds the NS'd cases, regardless of headspace, will fit both chambers. The NS'd cases will have different diameters along the body of the case. That's why we keep NS'd cases seperate and for use only in the rifle they were fired in.
    Larry Gibson

    “Deficient observation is merely a form of ignorance and responsible for the many morbid notions and foolish ideas prevailing.”
    ― Nikola Tesla

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check