winchester 94 questions

[indian joe]

Previous thread on this was locked with some stuff left hanging - one of the offended parties being a moderator this of mine proly wont be allowed - lets see .

a newby looking at 94's to buy asked why do some guns have the lever firm against the tang when they close and others dont - and how do I fix this ? He recieved a reply along the lines of - "you need to replace a flat spring inside as it is likely worn" - this would have to be the spring that works on the lever safety latch and as some pointed out further in the thread was absolutely not the issue.

Most 94's require some upward hand pressure - holding the lever closed against the tang - in order for them to fire - the lever safety latch is a trigger block and for it to function as such there needs to be some clearance between the tang and top of the lever when the action is locked shut - the little spring loaded button at the rear of the ("floorplate") holds the action closed - and with the lever standing a little away from the tang the gun is safe = cant fire . When the shooter closes their hand to hold the lever against the tang the trigger block safety (lever safety latch) is released - against pressure from that internal flat spring - and the gun will fire.

This is how the 94 was designed to function and needs to be understood in order to make a valid comment.


Some 94's the spring is worn to the point the trigger block function doesnt work, some have the spring broken , some have had it removed

[Kai]

Previous thread on this was locked with some stuff left hanging - one of the offended parties being a moderator this of mine proly wont be allowed - lets see .

a newby looking at 94's to buy asked why do some guns have the lever firm against the tang when they close and others dont - and how do I fix this ? He recieved a reply along the lines of - "you need to replace a flat spring inside as it is likely worn" - this would have to be the spring that works on the lever safety latch and as some pointed out further in the thread was absolutely not the issue.

Most 94's require some upward hand pressure - holding the lever closed against the tang - in order for them to fire - the lever safety latch is a trigger block and for it to function as such there needs to be some clearance between the tang and top of the lever when the action is locked shut - the little spring loaded button at the rear of the ("floorplate") holds the action closed - and with the lever standing a little away from the tang the gun is safe = cant fire . When the shooter closes their hand to hold the lever against the tang the trigger block safety (lever safety latch) is released - against pressure from that internal flat spring - and the gun will fire.

This is how the 94 was designed to function and needs to be understood in order to make a valid comment.


Some 94's the spring is worn to the point the trigger block function doesnt work, some have the spring broken , some have had it removed

Indian Joe,
Thank you for bringing this back. In the original post someone mentioned the "floor plate". Now that you put it into context with the "spring loaded button" (the friction stud) I now see you are referring to the "link". Although unrelated to the op's question, you give a good description of the lever/trigger safety and iits function. The only thing I would add is the lever/trigger safety is present on all 1894s.

[indian joe]

Indian Joe,
Thank you for bringing this back. In the original post someone mentioned the "floor plate". Now that you put it into context with the "spring loaded button" (the friction stud) I now see you are referring to the "link". Although unrelated to the op's question, you give a good description of the lever/trigger safety and iits function. The only thing I would add is the lever/trigger safety is present on all 1894s.

just checked my old catalog a few minutes ago - "link" complete = $1.20
could buy separately the friction stud, friction stud spring, friction stud pin. also the pin for the front of the link and its retaining screw.

I'm not a huge 94 fan but recognise how well they work for intended purpose, have had four - a pre ww2 one I built up from bits with a shortened chunky 308 match barrel (back then those boys would rebarrel at the end of each season or after 1000 rounds) I think the most consistently accurate lever gun I have owned, then a post 64 cheapie that was my truck gun for a few years, (cant do that anymore downunder), next a 375 Big Bore (pre angle eject), I ran that as my Blackpowder rifle for a while, sold that to a mate in our club, he got on the Kava one weekend, got in a ruckus, cops came - took his guns (supposedly destroyed ?) I now have a OFW in 38/55 - which I will keep - I like the rifle configuration and it is trouble free accurate with blackpowder - the OFW definitely has the screw pivot at the front of the link rather than the pin and retainer screw - the others I cant remember.
Re the original posting - hope he can understand that the lever is not supposed to sit neat up against the tang with the action closed - needs some space there to allow the trigger block to work when the lever is squeezed that extra bit to shoot.

Yes its on all 94's - it dont always work on old ones for the reasons I wrote (and sometimes internal wear) If the friction stud is worn or its spring weak/clogged up, then the lever can drop down some. Untidy but not a safety issue the 94 cant fire unless its almost fully closed.