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Thread: Win 94 question

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
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    I'm surprised nobody else has commented on them removing the strirrup from the mainspring - it was a dog of an idea - maybe they didnt do it for long or to many guns? the stamped lifter never bothered me while I had that carbine - just a knockabout gun and served its purpose. I aquired a BB375 later - a stark difference in quality and later still a OFW commemorative - another quality piece (if ya can see past the gold plating)

  2. #22
    Boolit Grand Master GhostHawk's Avatar
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    I have a post 64 Win 94 in Dirty Thirty. I did remove the crossbolt safety. Took all of 5 minutes. I did wrap the bottom of the lever with paracord. Softens the imipact on my knuckles. Other than that it looks good, shoots good, is well worth what I paid for it.
    I truly believe we need to get back to basics.

    Get right with the Lord.
    Get back to the land.
    Get back to thinking like our forefathers thought.


    May the Lord bless you and keep you. May the Lord make His face to shine upon you and be gracious unto you
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  3. #23
    Boolit Bub
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    Some years ago I was given an unfinished post 64 Winchester 94 receiver that had walked out of the factory. I was told that it was a ductile iron casting. Here are some photos:Click image for larger version. 

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  4. #24
    Boolit Master redhawk0's Avatar
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    I have a 1973 and the bluing was severely worn on it when I obtained it. After some work, grit, determination, and drive....I got it all cleaned up and its now a beautiful rifle. Yes...I got rid of the red-dot site. It just didn't fit....so no comments please

    redhawk

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    The only stupid question...is the unasked one.
    Not all who wander....are lost.
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  5. #25
    Boolit Buddy Kai's Avatar
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    Lots of comments on here about the Winchester 1894 but I have not seen any that address the OPs original question. Someone mentioned some kind of a flat spring that keeps the lever against the receiver. This is not the case. There is a spring loaded detent (friction stud) in the rear of the link that catches on the front of the lower tang. If the stud wears it will not hold the lever to the lower tang.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Kai; 04-24-2023 at 02:48 PM.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
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    Year 1902 version here. Still staying closed.


  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kai View Post
    Lots of comments on here about the Winchester 1894 but I have not seen any that address the OPs original question. Someone mentioned some kind of a flat spring that keeps the lever against the receiver. This is not the case. There is a spring loaded detent (friction stud) in the rear of the link that catches on the front of the lower tang. If the stud wears it will not hold the lever to the lower tang.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    You are correct and that's called a "friction stud" and the spring for it is called, you guessed it "friction stud spring".

  8. #28
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    Kai nailed it.
    The problem is that the recess in the lower tang (that mates with the plunger on the lever) gets wallowed out. My 1954 model 94 needed a bit of peening on the recess to correct the situation. Really worn ones could be replaced or welded and recut.


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  9. #29
    Boolit Master
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    Note;
    Care should be exercised as concerns Serial Number generalizations...
    My M94 serial 5,119,XXX is still a Winchester model 94, made in New Haven CT... Non Angle eject, and no rebounding Hammer!!
    Shouldn't be...But... There it is!!!
    Of course...there will Always be oddities..Check Thompson Contenders Pre-Easy Open.. Yes...Variations abound!

  10. #30
    Boolit Buddy Kai's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Der Gebirgsjager View Post
    It's the strength of an internal flat spring. Not hard to fix, depending on your level of gunsmithing experience and ability, and should not be an expensive part to purchase. Not enough of a problem to not buy the gun if the price is right. However, I wonder why you are looking rifles that are probably older than you are? The only ones to avoid were the '94s made in the 1964-1974 time period. Rifles made thereafter are good rifles and unless there's a historical attachment to the older guns I wouldn't discount the newer specimens at probably better prices.

    DG
    I mean no disrespect but why would you give information about something you clearly know nothing about. You would have the poster completely disassemble his gun and replace a spring that has nothing to do with the problem when the actual problem can be fixed without disassembly. As for an interest in old winchesters it's probably because the older guns are superior to the newer guns including the Japanese produced guns.

  11. #31
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    Kai, in DG’s and others defense here, the thread started drifting about the lever actuated trigger safety’s tab- which did/does operate from a flat spring in the lower tang.
    Getting sidetracked is not the same as “something you know nothing about”.
    Anyway, have a good day.


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  12. #32
    Boolit Master

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    This is one heck of a thread......
    “You should tell someone what you know. There should be a history, so that men can learn from it.

    He smiled. “Men do not learn from history. Each generation believes itself brighter than the last, each believes it can survive the mistakes of the older ones. Each discovers each old thing and they throw up their hands and say ‘See! Look what I have found! Look upon what I know!’ And each believes it is something new.

    Louis L’Amour

    The Californios

  13. #33
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    I’ve had two post 64 model 94 30-30 rifles.
    One was called the 94 Antique. In the 1970s, it could be won by selling magazine subscriptions (VoAg class), among other guns.
    I bought mine in the late eighties. It featured a case color finish reciever with a brass plated loading gate.
    The other was an early eighties Trapper 16-1/2” barrel and I miss that little dude.


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  14. #34
    Boolit Master

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    Stopped at a small pawn shop several years ago. Looked at a '94 Antique that the owner claimed to be an old gun and had priced accordingly. I opened the action and pointed out the stamped lifter and told him that it was made after 1964 and that the "Antique" was just a model version.
    Spell check doesn't work in Chrome, so if something is spelled wrong, it's just a typo that I missed.

  15. #35
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by ulav8r View Post
    Stopped at a small pawn shop several years ago. Looked at a '94 Antique that the owner claimed to be an old gun and had priced accordingly. I opened the action and pointed out the stamped lifter and told him that it was made after 1964 and that the "Antique" was just a model version.
    That is as Funny as pre model 10 S&W!!!
    or G-1 Contender
    Did he think that it was produced over 30 years ago, and Called an Antique at that time????
    Sheeesh

  16. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by BB57 View Post
    The stamped lifters were not around for more than a couple years, and many of the, were retrofitted later but their owners with a forged steel lifter.

    However the pre 64 Model 94s all have a screw in the center of the front of the lever link to hold the pin on place. The post 1963 Model 94s do not have this screw.



    My Model 94 Classic still has its stamped lifter, and it does annoy me a bit when ai look at it as the rest of the rifle is otherwise quite well made. But it works just as well as the forged lifters in my pre 64 rifle and carbines.

    Again more misinformation. I have a 1994 carbine that has the screw In the center of the lever link.

  17. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by BB57 View Post
    There is a lot of misinformation out there about the 1964-1981 era Model 94s.

    Let’s start with the Sinter forged receivers. Winchester switched to a powdered metal sinter forged process where the steel alloy is placed in a mold under extreme heat and pressure. The pay off is a forged part that required very little machining to complete the finished receiver. The density of the metal is about 96-98% of that of traditional forged metal so Winchester used a steel alloy with a higher chromium content to ensure it had as much strength as older receivers.

    The “problem” is that the higher chromium content didn’t allow it to be blued via the traditional Win Blue / Oxyblack bluing process.

    There are three different processes that were used on these rifles and carbines:

    - From 1964-1968 and serial numbers 2,700,000 - 3,185,691, Winchester used the Du-Lite 3-0 Process on these receivers. Refinishing one of these doesn’t involve anything too difficult, just prepping it like you would any other receiver, but then re-bluing it with the same Du-Lite 3-0 process.

    The only reason this is even an issue with gunsmiths is that they don’t want to set up a separate bluing tank. If you try to use a traditional bluing process, you get a uniform purple color, just like you often see on some high chromium content barrels after they age a few decades.

    - From 1968-1972 and serial number 3,185,692 - 3,806,499, Winchester used a Black Chrome Plate finish. These are the receivers where you hear complaints of the “bluing” flaking off the receiver. Refinishing them again is a little more work, but isn’t a huge issue. All of the black chrome plate must be removed before you can reblue, but again you can use the Du-lite 3-0 process on the underlying steel.

    - From 1972-1981, and serial number 3,806,500 - 5,024,957, Winchester used the Win Blue/Oxiblak process. Rebluing these is where it gets interesting. To use the traditional process they first plated the receiver with iron, and then use the Win Blue process on the iron plating. The problem when these are reblued with a Win Blue or OxyBlack process is that if you polish down through the plating in spots, those spots will come out purple. These are thus the receivers where you see a mottled purple and blued finish. Again the solution here is to just use the Du-Lite 3-0 process as it works on both the steel alloy and the iron plating.

    In 1982, Winchester went back to a conventional forging process and an alloy with less chromium.

    ——

    Quality wise, the Winchesters made prior to WWII had a lot more hand fitting. During WWII Winchester was heavily involved in M1 Garand production and got lots of nifty new production machinery and really learned how to produce modern weapons using modern (for the time) manufacturing processes. For that reason the hard core collectors place more value in the pre-war products. Given the wider range of custom and special order options prior to 1932 when Olin acquired Winchester (although the struggling company pared back on the options and cataloged fewer options beginning in 1926), those earlier rifles are generally more attractive to collectors due to the greater frequency of non standard special order features.

    After WWII Winchester took advantage of the new production equipment and the rifles and carbines produced from 1946 onward needed a lot less hand fitting. Given the reduced hand fitting, many hard core collectors regard the real “quality change” as being pre war versus post war.

    However, the 1964 changes were egregious with not just the sinter forged receiver but also a stamped lifter and some roll pins in place of solid steel pins. Those were changes everyone could hate and it over shadowed the earlier post war changes.

    Winchester went back to a solid lifter and solid steel pins by 1967 or so, which made those changes pretty short lived. And to be fair to Winchester those stamped lifter guns work just as well as the forged steel lifter guns.

    In late 1981 and early 1982 Winchester put a rebounding hammer on the Model 94 and that change persists to this day. That occurred just before the switch to the angle eject model during 1982, which is a far more noticeable change.

    1990 saw the addition of a cross bolt safety and that eventually gave way to the Miroku made Winchesters with a tang safety.

    The thing that people fail to fully appreciate is those 1964-1981 Model 94s have become much more popular as they are actual American made Winchesters that have the traditional quarter cock hammer operating system. They have gained a great deal of value as shooters. In this case, the fact that they don’t have any significant collector value is a plus. Plus, despite their flaws compared to pre 64 Model 94s, I’ll argue the quality was better than the 1990s era Winchesters where quality sunk to all time lows as the company struggled to stay afloat.

    ——

    I own a very nice example of a pre war Model 94 rifle (1926) as well as three pre-64 (early 1950s) Model 94 20” carbines.

    I own a few post 63, pre 1982 Model 94s. These include a 1967 Model 94 Classic 26” rifle, a 1978 Big Bore 94 20” carbine in .375 Win, and a pair of Legendary Frontiersman 24” rifles in .38-55. All of these either are or are ase tially equivalent to the XTR grade Winchester marketed for several years, and are step above their standard grade guns in fit and finish.

    I also own a 2022 produced Model 94 Trails End take down rifle in .38-55 and it is a standard rather than deluxe grade gun.

    In the past I owned a couple standard grade Model 94 20” carbines from the 1973-74 era as well as a post 1982 but pre cross bolt safety Model 94AE Trapper.

    My 1926 26” rifle is a .30-30 and despite a frosty looking bore showing the effects of pre war corrosive primed ammo and inadequate cleaning it’s still a solid 2 MOA five shot group rifle. I suspect back in its day with a shiny bore it was a 1 MOA rifle. That’s impressive for a lever action.

    My three early 50s Model 94 carbines are also all in .30-30 and are all 1.5 MOA five shot group rifles with both Winchester factory 150 gr RN and Hornady 150 gr RN hand loads. Cast bullet accuracy is in the 2 MOA range, but it requires you to do your part regarding alloy, lube and load.

    My Model 94 Classic rifle is a solid 2 MOA rifle as well. My LFs are 1.5 MOA capable rifles with jacketed bullets and 2 MOA rifles with well made cast bullets. The BB94 is a 2 MOA rifle with jacketed bullets and struggles with cast bullets.

    The BB94 isn’t a great cast bullet rifle given the generous throat dimensions designed to swallow a .380” old school .38-55 bullet fired in it by mistake, and the long tapered leade designed to size that bullet down to the .375” bore. Any accuracy you have with that now significantly resized cast lead bullet is then further challenged by the 1-12” rifling twist. In short, a hard alloy that won’t strip in the rifling is too hard to size down at safe pressures so it needs to be in the .375-376” range, where it will suffer gas cutting as it won’t obturate in the large throat and leade. On the other hand a bullet large enough and soft enough to fit the throat and leade and obturate efficiently will strip in the fast rifling twist if you push it very hard. So it works ok at black powder pressure .38-55 velocities, but that’s about it.

    My standard grade Model 94 carbines in .30-30 from the mid 1970s were both 3-4 MOA carbines and were not all that impressive in comparison to the others. The Model 94AE Trapper was a 4-5 MOA carbine and had by far the worst fit of the bunch. I sold all three of them and have never regretted it.
    Am I right when a sintered part is heated to high temperature and under pressure not being called "forged". The way you described that sinter method it sounds very close to a part made by MIM.

  18. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Texas by God View Post
    Kai, in DG’s and others defense here, the thread started drifting about the lever actuated trigger safety’s tab- which did/does operate from a flat spring in the lower tang.
    Getting sidetracked is not the same as “something you know nothing about”.
    Anyway, have a good day.


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    I didn't misinterpret what the OP asked. He was wanting the floorplate to stay closed when you lever it shut. As stated by others that has nothing to do with the "safety button" feature. I'd say the drift started on the very first post after the OP's post.

  19. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by TD1886 View Post
    I didn't misinterpret what the OP asked. He was wanting the floorplate to stay closed when you lever it shut. As stated by others that has nothing to do with the "safety button" feature. I'd say the drift started on the very first post after the OP's post.
    question was about the lever NOT the floorplate (in defense of all of us "drifters") here it is again

    Been looking at a couple of early 1940 carbines and notice that the lever on some will remain tight against the lower tang when closed. On others it wants to flop down. What's the problem, and how difficult is it to fix so the lever stays snug against the tang? If new parts are required, are they expensive?

  20. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by indian joe View Post
    question was about the lever NOT the floorplate (in defense of all of us "drifters") here it is again

    Been looking at a couple of early 1940 carbines and notice that the lever on some will remain tight against the lower tang when closed. On others it wants to flop down. What's the problem, and how difficult is it to fix so the lever stays snug against the tang? If new parts are required, are they expensive?
    Well duh, if that floor does lock in the lever isn't ever going to be up against the tang!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check