Locktite with pipe threads

[Gator 45/70]

Believe it or not, I have never been able to find pipe dope for sale over here. They have always used some fibers, maybe jute. I see it for sale. They wrap the threads with it and screw it together. Maybe that’s why I have a leak today, less than ten years since it’s installation. I guess I’ll try a lot of Teflon tape. The male threads are brass and the female threads are old galvanized pipe.

Better look for a split or crack first.

[jonp]

People are using Locktite for so many different things now, that I was wondering if it would work to seal pipe threads. I just have one to do.

Depends but generally no. Use tape which is cheap and use the right tape for the job. Tape for water pipes does not work well if used for propane. Ive use the liquid seal in a tube but not with any luck

[justindad]

I'm a big fan of teflon tape.
Get the thicker, more expensive roll. The thin cheap stuff works, but can be rather frustrating
since you have to wind it around the pipe more times.

+1 …

[Scrounge]

People are using Locktite for so many different things now, that I was wondering if it would work to seal pipe threads. I just have one to do.

There is a kind of Loctite that will fill gaps (intended for bearings in slightly out of tolerance seats), but the ordinary stuff is too thin for that. You may lock up the joint, but it will not necessarily be water or air-tight. If you use the high strength Loctite, it's going to be a bear to get loose when/if you need to. You need the thread sealant to fill the gaps between the threads. See what Country Gent said. A small roll of teflon tape is pretty cheap, and a small bottle of a teflon-based thread dope is likewise, and pretty good insurance that you won't about kill yourself or burn the place down trying to get Loctite to release when you need to work on it next.

Bill

[john.k]

Most here are confusing the Loctite thread locker with the Loctite(and other brands) pipe sealant ,which is a yellowish white thick creamy goo,and which stays somewhat flexible even when cured...........i have used this stuff as anti rust paste on big threads (1"+) in a salt water environment....for instance the rubber blocks on wharf buffers

[megasupermagnum]

Most here are confusing the Loctite thread locker with the Loctite(and other brands) pipe sealant ,which is a yellowish white thick creamy goo,and which stays somewhat flexible even when cured...........i have used this stuff as anti rust paste on big threads (1"+) in a salt water environment....for instance the rubber blocks on wharf buffers

The OP has stated he has not been able to find that there in France. He was asking about threadlocker.

[uscra112]

An old, old way was to wind heavy sewing thread onto the male part. I'm talking 100 years ago.

Gasket shellac (Aviation Form-a-Gasket) would work, but you'd have a lot of fun getting it apart if you ever had to.

[DougGuy]

I have fit screw pipe with about every sealer under the sun. I have probably 6 down in the basement now, Keytite, Gasolia, Oatey, teflon tape thin and thick.

Put the fittings together dry, if it turns more than 3x you will need 2-3 wraps of tape, AND a good bit of sealer. This works great for them Asian fittings you get from Zoro. They fit loosely and screw on a long way before becoming snug.

Correctly threaded fittings will go 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 turns and can use just tape, OR the soft sealers. Not recommended to use both, use one or the other.

[justindad]

If you never have to take it apart, JB Weld will work. A thick thread locker could also work (at low pressure where things don’t stretch) if the liquid fills the threads and is pushed out while you tighten the fittings - don’t wipe off the excess and let it cure for 24 hours before you let the fluid/gas flow. Get spare parts and test them before you do the real deal.

[GregLaROCHE]

I took it apart today. It’s an automatic purge to let out air that gets in the radiator system. The brass male end screwed out shiny clean clean, but I had to put a bore brush on a drill to clean out the female cast iron threads. I wrapped a lot of Teflon tape around the threads and and when I first tried it, I took it back out and added more tape. I know there is thicker tape available, but once someone gave me a whole box of the thin stuff. I filled the system with water, it was still a leaking a bit. I tightened more and more and it finally stopped. A job that could not have gone well, turned out fine.

Thanks for all the help and ideas. Yes JB weld was on my mind if the Teflon tape didn’t work.

[john.k]

White lead and oakum was the traditional one.....dont know if you can still buy white lead ,but I have one gallon pail of it I can hardly lift.

[MT Gianni]

I have fit screw pipe with about every sealer under the sun. I have probably 6 down in the basement now, Keytite, Gasolia, Oatey, teflon tape thin and thick.

Put the fittings together dry, if it turns more than 3x you will need 2-3 wraps of tape, AND a good bit of sealer. This works great for them Asian fittings you get from Zoro. They fit loosely and screw on a long way before becoming snug.

Correctly threaded fittings will go 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 turns and can use just tape, OR the soft sealers. Not recommended to use both, use one or the other.

We had good success double doping gas lines over 125 psi with threaded fittings. Another hint was to wrap with teflon and spray it with WD 40 which would shrink the tape to the pipe.

If you cannot find pipe joint compound anywhere in France try a solid bar soap. The taper of the threads should seal them, the dope or teflon tape just allows you to tighten it further.