Need some advice on ‘ restoring ‘ an old Rossi Puma 44 carbine.

[Krh1326]

Many moons ago, I was given an old Rossi Puma m92 in 44 magnum.
The stock was broken, just behind the receiver tang.
I splice repaired the stock, as well as I cared to, and it became the kick around, funtime, pass around the camp, deer rifle backup plan b, and it often was kicking around in my pick up truck.
I forgot about it, over the years, but picked it up again, once I started casting and reloading .44

It has been beaten up pretty good, but I decided to use it, a little bit. My mid range loads are really fun to fire, but my H110 full house loads rip my shoulder up, with that curved steel plated stock.
I decided to put some elbow grease into it. Being the stock had been broken and repaired, I’m not worrying about the original condition , original configuration. I used a square with the barrel, and cut the curve off the stock, and ordered a real nice Pachmayr recoil pad.
I removed both the stock and the foregrip, and have stripped and sanded them down very nicely.
I also ordered some wood bleach, as I would like the finish to be lighter, than the original very dark finish.
I was going to then use Minwax Natural stain, then finish with a spar varnish. But I’m reading that guys really like the classier look of oil finish. I get confused here, because I thought oil stain is oil, no? Now I just found Minwax Tung Oil…. Is that what some folks mean, by oil?
Any suggestions before I apply anything? I’m not looking for a labor intensive project, and this is far from a collectors item. I’m just looking to get a lighter coloring, and to seal it well.

Thank you
Ken

[Texas by God]

I’ve refinished several Rossi stocks with only Tru-Oil. About ten hand rubbed coats is enough for a working gun. It will darken the wood a little.


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[Shawlerbrook]

Pick whatever stain suits you but I would topcoat with Minwax Rub On Poly Satin.

[Wayne Smith]

I don't know if Minwax 'tung oil' has any or not. I do know that Formby's 'tung oil' has none in it. I buy raw tung oil from WoodCraft and mix it 50/50 with mineral spirits and sand this in to fill pours. This fills the pours with a slurry of oil and sanding dust. I will do this multiple times up to 220 grit. This is over multiple days. By this time the mineral spirits have gassed off and my mix is more like 75/25. This is what I start rubbing in after sanding the hardened stock to 320/400.

Tung oil is one of only two oil finishes that completely polymerizes, or completely hardens. The other is walnut oil. Linseed oil (BLO) never completely hardens, thus you have to continually add more.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

Sure would like to see what it looks like.

DG

[Bruntson]

In the old days, Oil finish meant that the product was absorbed into the pores of the wood and hardened. Paint thinner or turpintine was used as a thinner. Popular products were linseed oil and real tung oil. An oil stain will be absorbed into the wood pores too.
Varnishes, lacquers, and shellac are finishes that form a layer on top of the wood with little Absorbtion into the wood pores.

In todays market, the advertising people have started to market what their product will replace. We see tung oil or polyurethane labeled cans that contain little to none contained in the product. The company says that its labeled that way because the their product is meant to replace the product listed on the can.

[Krh1326]

Thank you, all.
Going the Tru Oil route.

[Fishoot]

An acquaintance of mine recommended using the undercoat spray for automotive wheel wells. I produces a rubber like pebble texture. I use various camo patterns using live leaves, grass, ferns, etc to make the camo patterns. Most of the time I spray the whole stock with green then overspray the leaves, etc with black, or brown in matt finishes. I use a clear overcoat of varnish. Of course this does away with the wood look, but its easy to do and looks great.

[Baltimoreed]

Done many using tru-oil over the years.

[pietro]

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FYI, there's right way & a wrong way to apply Tru-Oil - please check your PM's for what I found (over 30-odd years) to be the best way.