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Thread: Today It Happened… a Ruger #3

  1. #81
    Boolit Grand Master Good Cheer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Green Frog View Post
    I went back to take another look at your picture(s) of the modified fore arm... at least I think it was your picture that showed a standard #3 fore end reworked to schnabel style. It seems to have disappeared into the ether. Was it yours, and if yes could you post it again please?
    Froggie
    Yes sir.

  2. #82
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Friend Dale53 gave me an orphan fore end from a #3 that had showed up at his place from somewhere. It's a perfect match for the one that is on my project gun so I thought it would be a good candidate to get the schnabel treatment that I saw somewhere, hence my question of Good Cheer. I think he posted pictures of the one his brother altered for him, and it looked like an idea worth copying if I can get a good enough picture to go by. My lack of skill is matched only by my lack of design capability, so I need a good example to copy.

    As for the barrel, I have two more places to call Monday about reboring the Hornet barrel, but neither looks all that promising, so I'm leaning toward going full custom with a tapered octagon profile on a Douglas Premium barrel. Life is too short to put up with less than the best!

    Froggie
    Last edited by Green Frog; 07-07-2024 at 05:57 PM. Reason: correction
    "It aint easy being green!"

  3. #83
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Thank you, Good Cheer. That’s gaw-juss! Are those cartridges the 38 Cox wildcats you mentioned? They look pretty great too.
    My question on the fore end is how far back from the nose did your brother start the taper so he could smoothly eliminate the step and shape it into the schnabel profile? I don’t suppose I could prevail upon you to post another picture from underneath? That would give me the ability to develop a sort of 3D view.
    Thanks,
    Froggie
    "It aint easy being green!"

  4. #84
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    Mk42gunner's Avatar
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    That is a lot better looking fore end than the stock one from Ruger, which I think is way too clunky for a carbine anyway.

    To me it appears the taper starts to be noticeable just in front of the front scope base. I could be wrong, but there is a lot of wood to remove to get rid of the barrel band and its step in the fore end.

    Robert

  5. #85
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Fortunately I have that spare fore end given to me by Dale53. It looks just about perfect, so I’ll choose the one in “lesser” condition (it may just be a random choice) and experiment with reshaping it to use on this project. As a couple of you have mentioned, there’s a lot of wood on those fore ends, so I may have to slim gently and check often to see how I’m progressing. It may need a little slimming all the way back to the receiver face.
    I noticed elsewhere that although JES doesn’t advertise it in his website, he is now doing reboring to 32-20, so maybe I can fall back to my original design plan. That would be very cool!
    Froggie
    "It aint easy being green!"

  6. #86
    Boolit Master pertnear's Avatar
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    Take this for what its worth....

    My Ruger #2 is a custom 6.8mm with 22" barrel. Per Frank DeHass' book, I had the 'smith drill a small set screw hole in the hangar for barrel tension. The gun shot very good with no tension - more than great for a hunting rifle. Once a good load was found, I began playing with the forend-to-barrel tension. With light tension, groups shrank to a 1/2" - I was elated! Then one day I curiously applied heavy tension with the screw. With Sierra 115gr MK, groups dropped down into the 'teens! When I do my part, even hunting bullets shoot tiny. I have never seen a two-piece-stocked gun shoot this accurate. I saw a #2 rifle once that had a small hole drilled through the forend so an allen wrench could be used to adjust the tension screw without removing the forend. Just FWIW YMMV but I'm a believer ....

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  7. #87
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Fortunately I have that spare fore end given to me by Dale53. It looks just about perfect, so I’ll choose the one in “lesser” condition (it may just be a random choice) and experiment with reshaping it to use on this project. As a couple of you have mentioned, there’s a lot of wood on those fore ends, so I may have slim gently and check to see how I’m progressing. It may need a little slimming all the way back to the receiver face.
    I noticed elsewhere that although JES doesn’t advertise it in his website, he is now doing reboring to 32-20, so maybe I can fall back to my original design plan. That would be very cool!
    Froggie
    "It aint easy being green!"

  8. #88
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Just found out JES offers 3 groove cut rifling as standard and both 4 and5 groove at extra cost. The Douglas blanks come with air gauged 6 groove button rifling, so from an accuracy standpoint they seem preferable. I plan to write an extensive report on this project when it's completed, tracing it from concept, to buying the donor rifle, to the planning to the build, and final testing. I think it will be interesting.
    Froggie
    "It aint easy being green!"

  9. #89
    Boolit Grand Master Good Cheer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Green Frog View Post
    Thank you, Good Cheer. That’s gaw-juss! Are those cartridges the 38 Cox wildcats you mentioned? They look pretty great too.
    My question on the fore end is how far back from the nose did your brother start the taper so he could smoothly eliminate the step and shape it into the schnabel profile? I don’t suppose I could prevail upon you to post another picture from underneath? That would give me the ability to develop a sort of 3D view.
    Thanks,
    Froggie
    Yes sir, that's the wildcat.
    I'll leave myself a note to take an underneath picture tomorrow while Beryl rains on us.

  10. #90
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Thanks, Good Cheer. First, be careful around that big blow, and remember Dan Bongino’s number 1 rule, “Don’t get dead!” Be safe, my friend.
    Froggie
    "It aint easy being green!"

  11. #91
    Boolit Grand Master Good Cheer's Avatar
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    No.3 fore end pictures.






  12. #92
    Boolit Master



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    Quote Originally Posted by Green Frog View Post
    Fortunately I have that spare fore end given to me by Dale53. It looks just about perfect, so I’ll choose the one in “lesser” condition (it may just be a random choice) and experiment with reshaping it to use on this project. As a couple of you have mentioned, there’s a lot of wood on those fore ends, so I may have slim gently and check to see how I’m progressing. It may need a little slimming all the way back to the receiver face.
    I noticed elsewhere that although JES doesn’t advertise it in his website, he is now doing reboring to 32-20, so maybe I can fall back to my original design plan. That would be very cool!
    Froggie
    I have thought about doing mine in 32-20 , But my real preference is for 25-20. Problem is that the available liners are not in a twist that i care for. And unlike most who have commented here, I kinda like the looks of the original configuration fore end. I don't think a rebore of an original configuration .223 barrel would work out due to the chamber specs of the 223 - Unless you set the barrel back. I do know that Ruger #1 extractors for 218 bee have been available - Which would work in a #3 in 32-20 or 25-20
    Being human is not for sissies.

  13. #93
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Thank you Good Cheer. Tell your brother I hope I can do that well when I grow up!

    I’m only now noticing how much darker your wood looks than mine. Did he (or you) strip off all for the original finish and start from scratch? Was that a fairly dark piece of wood or did it get a lot of stain?

    Froggie
    "It aint easy being green!"

  14. #94
    Boolit Grand Master Good Cheer's Avatar
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    The original finish was stripped off.
    It's been about forty years... I'd have to ask him what he used.

  15. #95
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Well, “the die is cast” as they used say in classic literature. I pulled the scope, rings and blocks off of my #3 as well as the butt stock, then swaddled the barreled action in a few yards of bubble wrap, put it all in a specially modified plain brown cardboard box that looked decidedly un-gun-like. It was shipped off via USPS, heavily insured and tracked, and should reach my chosen gunsmith on Monday.

    “Final decisions” made are; Douglas Premium XX barrel profiled octagon and tapered to closely match the original #3 barrel and chambered 327 Fed Mag. The original fore end will be reshaped inside to match the new barrel, and a couple of other things done such as D&T the barrel for scope blocks then back home. The GS said this will take about 6 months.

    When it gets home, I plan to reshape the carbine fore end in a way similar to the one Good Cheer’s brother did, then strip all remaining finish from it and the butt stock and finish both to match, while leaving the butt stock shape unchanged. The new finish will probably be a little more “walnutty” in color than the original. I will fit an OEM steel butt plate in place of the plastic one.

    As for sighting, I’m still ruminating on what scope mount(s) will be most appropriate. That settled, I have a couple of good old classic 1” scopes, but am also considering perhaps using a 7/8“ or even 3/4” tubed scope to be in better scale with what will be after all, a relatively light rifle. I figure I have plenty of time on that.

    OK, this thread will probably be kinda dormant for the next six months, so just stand by for the next installment!

    Froggie
    "It aint easy being green!"

  16. #96
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    We'll be waiting with bated breath!

  17. #97
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    Here's hoping for no delays. I am waiting impatiently for a range report no later than February 2025. Have to give you time for the stock work.

    As for a scope, my No.3 has a Leupold M-8 4x on it nd I must admit it looks a bit long. A 7/8" Lyman Alaskan might look better although I'm not sure of the optical quality of most of those ancient scopes. Perhaps one of the Mini 4X scopes that were the rage in the 1980's? I think both Burris and Redfield made them.

    If the length of the M-8 isn't off putting, I would suggest either the Leupold or a Weaver K4.

    Robert

  18. #98
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    Leupold made a run of “Alaskan” scopes in the 1990s. The one I have somewhere in my accumulation is a nice little clear 7/8” tube scope. You might look for one if the Alaskan appeals to you for this project.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check