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Thread: Brownell's Steel Bed

  1. #1
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    DougGuy's Avatar
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    Brownell's Steel Bed

    I used this stuff on my M77 Ruger with great results, after 30+ yrs it remains exactly as it was when it cured. GREAT stuff!

    My question is about heat. All epoxy is affected by heat, usually it will soften, and probably firm up again after cooling.

    So I am wondering how much shooting it can withstand on a medium sporter barrel, 308 caliber? Has anyone ever experienced softening or repositioning of parts like the barrel once the gun got warm?
    Got a .22 .30 .32 .357 .38 .40 .41 .44 .45 .480 or .500 S&W cylinder that needs throats honed? 9mm, 10mm/40S&W, 45 ACP pistol barrel that won't "plunk" your handloads? 480 Ruger or 475 Linebaugh cylinder that needs the "step" reamed to 6° 30min chamfer? Click here to send me a PM You can also find me on Facebook Click Here.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
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    With all my work using epoxy for a bunch of different things , and not just related to gunsmithing.
    The epoxy starts to soften at about 450°>
    It gets very flexible at about 650°>
    But when cooled down, it hardens back up to almost the original hardness.
    So when glass bedding.
    I don't think enough heat is generated to soften the epoxy enough to make it soften and re mold around parts.

  3. #3
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    405grain's Avatar
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    If you were shooting so much that the heat from the rifle was effecting the epoxy in the glass bedding, I'd be a lot more worried about what that much heat was doing to the condition of your barrel. Can't say that I'd see heating up a firearm that much outside of a belt fed machine gun, but there would probably be smoke coming off your barrel by the time you'd damage the glass bedding.

  4. #4
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    nicholst55's Avatar
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    I seriously doubt that anyone could heat up a barrel on a bolt gun enough to soften or melt the epoxy in the barrel channel - unless it was a military rifle, and could be loaded with stripper clips. Then, people have gotten the barrel hot enough to cause the stock to char.
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  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    That’s probably the same time I was glassing/floating my M77 with Accraglass

    Back in the day, sub-MOA groups from an off-the-shelf hunting rifle often took a bit of work.

  6. #6
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    GregLaROCHE's Avatar
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    There must have been an extra high temperature epoxy, because they used it to glue the heat resistant tiles onto the space shuttle.

  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Used a special epoxy to bond turcite to press cross heads, This was sham bam way lock adhesive. It is a high temp epoxy with a grit added to maintain optimum bond thickness. When it failed from heat it would harden up again when it cooled but the bond was gone and what was left was very brittle. The structure change with over heating it.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check