Boolits That Don't Like to Fall Out of the Mould

[Rickf1985]

So you are saying too hot they stick? Everyone else tells me that Lee aluminum molds need to cast hot. and if cool they wrinkle. So which is it? I have one that wrinkles from 650 all the way up to 900. And also sticks in the same range so that shoots that theory down. I have leemented that mold a half dozen times to no avail also. I ran a full thread on that mold on here with everything I did to it. (https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...-will-not-work) Lee admitted the mold is bad and offered a replacement at half price which ended up costing me full price once all the taxes, extra shipping fees, regular shipping fees and anything else they could think to add to it were tacked on. After 25 years or more of praising Lee products they have gotten so bad in their customer service I will never praise them again. And I will not buy anything from them that I can get that does the same job from someone else.

[rintinglen]

I guess if the drill grabs the Boolit... I polish with it that way!!!!

Don't do that--if the boolit grabs the drill will drill and you may find your mold has a new boolit nose. I can vouch for this.

[ascast]

yes this stuff was very good the Rapine stuff.

[charlie b]

My experience is the mold has to be on the warm side (not hot) and then cool before dumping the bullets. It is a fine line. I set the mold briefly on a wet towel (few seconds), then open and they usually fall out, or just need a slight tap. Depending on the mold mfg and bullet design I may cool the sprue plate or the mold base.

Lee's sometimes need some attention to the mold edges with a small stone. Very light, just enough to break the edge and careful with the vent lines. I have a very small (<1/8" square), hard sharpening stone I use for it. I also flatten (lap) the sprue plates on the ones I buy.

The older Lee molds I've owned were a bit more tempermental than the last 4 I bought.

FWIW, when I need to use graphite on something I use the powdered stuff and a soft brush.

[elmacgyver0]

I just follow the instructions that come with the Lee molds and have never had a problem.
Following instructions, what a novel idea!

[racepres]

I just follow the instructions that come with the Lee molds and have never had a problem.
Following instructions, what a novel idea!

Yes it is....

[justindad]

I find lightly polishing the cavity edges with 0000 wool took care of all my hang up troubles.

I’ve used a strap of leather.

[Bird]

I have only one aluminum mold, an eight cavity mp. I get sticking of bullets on one side of the mold if the mold gets too hot. I get the same result with cast iron molds as well.
The aluminum mold is very sensitive to the operating temperature, much more than the iron molds.
There is a fine operating margin where the mold and sprue plate has to be just the right temperature to give good fillout, flat cut sprues, and cool enough for the bullets to fall easily from the mold.
I keep the sprue plate flooded with plenty of lead to keep the temperature up and allow for lead to be sucked down into the mold for good bullet bases and fillout. With correct timing, the sprues cut nice and flat. Waiting a little longer before opening the mold, allows the bullets to fall easy with a couple of taps on the hinge bolt.
I have never smoked cavities on any mold, just clean with dish soap and a toothbrush. I use powdered graphite under the sprue plate and pins, although I have recently started to use copper paste on the pins.
If you keep getting the mold too hot, it is likely the locating pins will move. I just had a bit of funky alloy and turned up pot temp to 800 deg to get it to flow better, and the pins shifted.
Timing and temperature is everything.

[Gobeyond]

That one guy with the 650-900 degree mold sounds to hot. Let it cool they operate better more like 375-475. Let it cool.

[Dutchman]

Drill and tap the base of boolit with 10-32 tap and leave the tap in place. Rub boolit all over with JB Bore Cleaner (others use toothpaste). Run your cordless tool at low speed for about 20-30 seconds. Clean molds and smoke the cavities then begin casting. JB isn't abrasive just consider it a deep-cleaning. Works on Lyman/Ideal molds and Lee aluminum molds. Yeah, done in a lathe.

Dutch

[Rickf1985]

That one guy with the 650-900 degree mold sounds to hot. Let it cool they operate better more like 375-475. Let it cool.

That one guy was me and you need to read through the linked thread before making that comment. I am well aware it is too hot but I was testing the mold in increments from 650 all the way up to 900 so that when I called Lee that had no argument to say I did not try. And yes, I did let it cool, All the way back to 600 with a mold temp of around 350 and still the same results.

[racepres]

Drill and tap the base of boolit with 10-32 tap and leave the tap in place. Rub boolit all over with JB Bore Cleaner (others use toothpaste). Run your cordless tool at low speed for about 20-30 seconds. Clean molds and smoke the cavities then begin casting. JB isn't abrasive just consider it a deep-cleaning. Works on Lyman/Ideal molds and Lee aluminum molds. Yeah, done in a lathe.

Dutch

To Enlarge a Bit, I am thinking Clover compound first, then JB to polish result.. Just thinking out loud now.. I have Not had problems with aluminum molds with only Smoke applied...as Lee recommends.

[Thumbcocker]

I just follow the instructions that come with the Lee molds and have never had a problem.
Following instructions, what a novel idea!

Instruction manuals are just one persons opinion.

[racepres]

Instruction manuals are just one persons opinion.

Very True... Gotta trust someone...or..Re-invent the Wheel

[compass will]

I use the Frankford Arsenal version of mold release. been using it since I started casting.

[racepres]

I use the Frankford Arsenal version of mold release. been using it since I started casting.

I use it also...from time to time...But, Never in my Lee molds... Bought one with it in there...Me No Likey!!! removed it, smoked the mold...Life is Good!!!

[charlie b]

Drill and tap the base of boolit with 10-32 tap and leave the tap in place. Rub boolit all over with JB Bore Cleaner (others use toothpaste). Run your cordless tool at low speed for about 20-30 seconds. Clean molds and smoke the cavities then begin casting. JB isn't abrasive just consider it a deep-cleaning....

Dutch

Both JB bore paste and common toothpaste are abrasive, just not very much. Probably in the 4000-8000 grit range. If not there is no reason to use them and they would not leave a polished surface.

I do use JB to see if it does the job before I go to lapping compound.

[6thtexas]

I have had one mold I bought from Arsenal that was horrible about retaining bullets. I almost threw it away over the fence and forgot about it. Nothing worked. I remembered reading an old thread on this forum about using Kroil. While the mold was hot, I sprayed it good with Kroil and went back to casting. Of course the first few bullets were not filled out but eventually it started producing excellent bullets that fell from the mold. Might give it a try.

[mehavey]

I think I'd smoke (wooden match or candle soot) the mould before
I sprayed it down with any kind of oil.....

[JSnover]

To Enlarge a Bit, I am thinking Clover compound first, then JB to polish result.. Just thinking out loud now.. I have Not had problems with aluminum molds with only Smoke applied...as Lee recommends.

That's how I've done a few iron molds; Lap it with 1000 grit Clover, polish if needed with JB paste.
If your boolit drilling/tapping game is weak you can use a self-drilling screw. Drill a pilot hole for the drill bit portion of the screw. when the threads begin to grab, they'll spin the boolit just fine.