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Thread: 410 hulls

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    barrabruce's Avatar
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    410 hulls

    I only load a few 410’s a year but have came across a lot of primers cheap.
    So I made a sizer for the brass collar on the 100 or so plastic 3" cases I have and all is good that way.

    My question is
    The primers on most of the picked up plastic shells I have, the primers are near pretty easy to push out.
    As in nearly thumb seatable.

    I used to loads a lot more. Huhh humm 30 years ago, but I can’t remember them being that easy to push out or seat.
    Have times changed or am I selective remembering.

    I have my card wads and over shot wads and don’t crimp at all for my single shots.

    I have even tried some rice and some small seeds for a close snake charming load, hopefully not devastating round.

    It is a slow process to make 20 or so shells with hand tools.
    But they shoot fine and I don’t use them very often at all

    Thanks.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master Shawlerbrook's Avatar
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    I am a beginner 410 reloader just like you for a SS. I bought the resizing ring from MEC to resize plastic hulls. I reloaded many 12 & 16 ga shells on a MEC 600 and don’t remember primers being that easy. I am also getting into loading some Magtech 410 brass shells . They use Pistol primers and slightly larger diameter wads. I have read where a 303 British shell holder works and you can resize them with a 45 ACP Lee FCD with the stem removed. Big problem I am having is that there is no data available as far as what powder and how much.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master Shawlerbrook's Avatar
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    Something else is that some European hulls and primers are slightly larger that our domestic counterparts, so if someone primed a hull with say a Cheddite primer the pocket could be slightly stretched or if you have Cheddite hulls domestic primers May be a little loose. There are primer pocket swaging tools that will tighten up a pocket.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    Thanks for that.
    I’ll look at brass I got.
    The primers are WW and came in a big black 1000 tray.
    Ought to last me out.

    I haven’t had gas blowby or leakage from the pockets yet so I suppose they are
    OK. They all seem more less solid and weak compare to what I remember.
    More cheaper made.


    I have mostly shot brass cases for quite a while.
    Think it’s 12 grns of 2400 but would have to check.
    I have some brass magtec shells and am a bit disappointed as 1/4 of them the primers pockets are loose.
    But a bit of nail polish fixes that.
    I have a few 303 Brit formed cases as well.
    I just use a couple of hard card wads over the powder.
    A crunched up piece of baking paper as a crumble zone then another hard wad.
    I roll a piece of thin hard cardboard with the shiny side out into a roll over a mandrel and push some over hang over to form a shot wad.
    Fill up with shot and a light card on top and nail polish to seal the over shot card.
    They shoot and pattern well.
    The baking paper was/is the thing that makes it work well and the tube of cardboard cup.
    I have various wad cutters for the different thicknesses of brass.
    Shooting clays at 35 yrds no troubles with my home made swan shot.
    I load the plastic shells the same as a light card is easier to position then trying to crimp.

    Hope there is something in there for you.

    Barra
    Last edited by barrabruce; 03-23-2023 at 07:37 PM.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    using a LEE whackamole loader...the primer is placed on flat hard table /dowel put in case and LIGHTLY tapped down..I actually have a bit of dowel with knob on end and just lean on it to seat them..the ydefinately are not hard to seat or remove.
    shed loads of data for the wee cartridge...and I dont get too fussy ,pretty much settled on 2 loads and stick to them reguardless of case.... lots of fun to load your own,mixed up shot sizes will make it even more leathel to use. any and all from #2-#9 work well for us...majority being 4-5-6 size

  6. #6
    Boolit Master Shawlerbrook's Avatar
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    Thanks for the tips barra !

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    I have been using 444 Marlin cases with a plastic 410 wad to make a decent 1/2 oz load. I made some cases from 303 but they are more trouble than the 444 and don't hold any more shot.

    A couple months ago I made some cases from 300 Win Mag. This is quite a bit of work and takes a lathe but they will easily hold a full 3/4 oz of shot. I use a plastic 410 shot cup for this and I made a wad punch for my drill press to make overshot wads from thin cardboard. I'm using 14.5 grs of 2400 for both the 1/2 and the 3/4 oz loads. I think I'm going to try some other powders for the 1/2 oz loads as the 2400 load is really for the 3/4 oz loads.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    How much work on the 300 win mag cases.
    I have 3 357 win mag cases and It would take some work alright looking at them.

    I don’t plan on getting too fussy with the the 410 loads.
    They seem that they shot as good as any.

  9. #9
    Boolit Bub henryinpanama's Avatar
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    I put together a .410 reloading kit for about $60.00. For decapping, I use a large nail. The case can be placed in a socket or a hole drilled in a block of wood. I use a MEC resizer ring (https://www.precisionreloading.com/c...l=MC&i=8465410) clamped in a bench vise. Capping is done with a dowel and a hammer. I bought a roll crimper that fits in a drill on eBay, but one is available from https://www.thereloadersnetwork.com/...pin-410-gauge/.
    Last edited by henryinpanama; 04-25-2023 at 10:56 AM.
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  10. #10
    Boolit Master Shawlerbrook's Avatar
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    Henry I did the same. There are many YouTube videos on the subject. For the casual 410 shooter it beats paying $30 a box if you can find them.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    In using 300 Win Mag cases I anneal the cases about half way then size them in a 45 acp sizing die. I size them to about 3/8 of an inch from the front of the rim. I made a mandrel to fit the case mouth with the mouth butting against a shoulder. With the mandrel in the lathe chuck and a case on the mandrel I use a live center in the tailstock in the primer pocket. I turn the belt off before sizing then after sizing I turn the belt area even with the resized front of the case. I made a series of 4 tapered pins that fit an old bullet seater die to expand the necks. (I didn't have good luck fire forming) I expanded two steps and annealed the necks again and then expanded the necks in two more steps.

    The hardest part was sizing the case bodies down. I did this in 3 steps to keep the press at the upper part of its stroke for better leverage.

    With these cases I use a plastic 1/2 shot cup and 3/4 oz of shot with room for more but I don't have data for a heavier load. They are a lot of work but they should last for ever.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master Half Dog's Avatar
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    I too have noticed a difference in primer fit. I found the following chart and hope it helps.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    Thanks everyone
    Should be right from here on in.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check