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Thread: Better lead than this?

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    Better lead than this?

    SO I love scrounging and saving money and up-cycling and re-using and even finding new uses for others' scraps.
    But i got tired of mixing lead and trying to re-create the right alloy from "pure" lead and blocks of high antimony and tin solder.
    I was spending more time than I wanted and not getting the results on target that I wanted.
    That changed when I got my first order from GTBullets.com of 96-2-2 and 94-3-3 lead.
    They claim its what they use to cast their boolits with. Works well for me, and its just as/more economical when you factor in that Rotometals doesn't put any tin in their lower cost alloys, so you are not buying tin which is pricey. They just work. Its kinda like accepting that you COULD get cheaper stuff, but accepting variable performance as a result. Definitely not knocking the folks that like to alloy their own and find cheap sources of lead out there, I'm just not interested in spending hat time to do it.
    That said, does someone out there have a better performing alloy, its gotta have tin and antimony in it, that they like? Rotometals has the Hardball at $3.40/lb (with shipping), GT Bullets has those mentioned above at $2.90 and $3.35/lb (sans shipping).

  2. #2
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    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
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    Lyman #2 is sort of the benchmark and has proven itself to be good in most applications.
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    In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.


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  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    I have cast about 15000 pistol bullets in the past month to feed my action pistol habit, all of 95-3-2 alloy I make in 240-250# batches from isotope container scrap and pewter I get analyzed for exact composition, plus a bit of RotoMetals Superhard as needed to bring up the antimony. This is similar to COWW plus tin that is very versatile as a casting alloy. My cost, excluding gear and my time but including propane cost, is 61˘ a pound.

    Knowing the exact composition of my stock metals and using a bit of high school algebra, I can duplicate just about any common casting alloy except ones needing arsenic for heat treatment. It is definitely a significant investment in time and effort though, and as I get older the time and effort seem to grow to produce the same amount of alloy or bullets, but it’s still satisfying to look at a stack of ingots or a pile of bullets, thinking, “I made that”.

  4. #4
    Boolit Bub kentfielddude's Avatar
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    where did you get your isotope container scrap from?

  5. #5
    Boolit Master BNE's Avatar
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    For sub sonic loads, I have “settled” on 96-2-2. I know I could push that faster, I just have not found out how much faster. I still alloy my own mixes. That’s just the fun part for me.
    I'm a Happy Clinger.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master


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    I have been using WW metal with a little bit of tin since I started casting in 1983!
    Unless you are shooting precision matches a minor difference in the alloy will not make much difference in the performance of the boolit.
    I had a gentleman test my boolits with a Randsom Rest when I was doing commercial casting using 8 two cavity molds , 16 different cavities and they still held the X-ring at 25 yards!
    50/50 lead/Linotype will give you 92/6/2 alloy and can be sourced in the Swappin & Selling section for good prices .
    Last edited by deltaenterprizes; 03-22-2023 at 06:43 PM.

  7. #7
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    For handgun I use pretty much range lead around 10 -11 bhn. it is usually lead with a little antimony.. and I may or may not sweeten with tin for faster handgun to get it to 12ish. For anything faster.. I start with lyman #2 at the 15/16 area.. and go up from there as speed or pressure dictates.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by deltaenterprizes View Post
    50/50 lead/Linotype will give you 96/2/2 alloy and can be sourced in the Swappin & Selling section for good prices .
    No, Lino is 84-12-4. When mixed 50/50 with pure lead it yields an alloy of 92-6-2. Cut it again, 50/50, and you have 96-3-1 which is essentially COWW alloy. Mix in 2% tin and you're pretty close to 94-3-3. I've been using this for several years now in pistol and rifle loads up to 2000 fps and am very satisfied with it.
    "We take a thousand moments for granted thinking there will be a thousand more to come. Each day, each breath, each beat of your heart is a gift. Live with love & joy, tomorrow is not promised to anyone......"

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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Photog View Post
    SO I love scrounging and saving money and up-cycling and re-using and even finding new uses for others' scraps.
    But i got tired of mixing lead and trying to re-create the right alloy from "pure" lead and blocks of high antimony and tin solder.
    I was spending more time than I wanted and not getting the results on target that I wanted.
    That changed when I got my first order from GTBullets.com of 96-2-2 and 94-3-3 lead.
    They claim its what they use to cast their boolits with. Works well for me, and its just as/more economical when you factor in that Rotometals doesn't put any tin in their lower cost alloys, so you are not buying tin which is pricey. They just work. Its kinda like accepting that you COULD get cheaper stuff, but accepting variable performance as a result. Definitely not knocking the folks that like to alloy their own and find cheap sources of lead out there, I'm just not interested in spending hat time to do it.
    That said, does someone out there have a better performing alloy, its gotta have tin and antimony in it, that they like? Rotometals has the Hardball at $3.40/lb (with shipping), GT Bullets has those mentioned above at $2.90 and $3.35/lb (sans shipping).
    You need to define that question some more.
    shooting-accuracy?
    shooting-lead fouling?
    Casting-imperfections?

    The first two issues are likely not alloy.
    As to imperfection, I've cast with WW, range scrap, and other unknown alloys with success. When I've had problems, the solution is usually in my techniques and/or temperatures...and lastly, dirty alloy that just needed to be fluxed better.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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  10. #10
    Boolit Buddy
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    You need to define that question some more.
    shooting-accuracy?
    shooting-lead fouling?
    Casting-imperfections?

    Its combination of them, mold fill out, accuracy and consistency , low barrel leading have made me want to continue to buy pre-made alloy. Not to mention minimal fluxing needed, and low waste made it appealing. My own alloys don't come out great; i get variable casting imperfections, and it ONE MORE thing that I have to consider and do, when buying alloy isn't much more than buying the raw materials.

    Rotometals has #2 90-5-5, on sale right now at $3.20/lbs. I haven't tried that yet. Sounds like most folks don't buy pre-mix alloy?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Photog View Post
    You need to define that question some more.
    shooting-accuracy?
    shooting-lead fouling?
    Casting-imperfections?

    Its combination of them, mold fill out, accuracy and consistency , low barrel leading have made me want to continue to buy pre-made alloy. Not to mention minimal fluxing needed, and low waste made it appealing. My own alloys don't come out great; i get variable casting imperfections, and it ONE MORE thing that I have to consider and do, when buying alloy isn't much more than buying the raw materials.

    Rotometals has #2 90-5-5, on sale right now at $3.20/lbs. I haven't tried that yet. Sounds like most folks don't buy pre-mix alloy?
    OK, I now understand you better.
    I'd suggest getting the 94-3-3 from GTBullets.
    94-3-3 is my preferred alloy for Rifle and Mag pistol.
    BUT, since the 90-5-5 from Roto is on sale, maybe that's the way to go. IMHO, those two alloys function identical in regards to boolit alloy. The way Lead-tin-antimony alloys work, it's better to have balanced amounts of tin-antimony.
    Good Luck
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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  12. #12
    Boolit Grand Master
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    I do not hunt with cast bullets, so expansion is not a criteria for me. I want something easy to cast with that minimizes reloading challenges with higher pressure rounds. Many commercial casters use 92-6-2. It is easy to source and not that expensive if you place any value on your time.

    It works from 650 fps “mouse fart” loads to maximum pressure 9mm. I am probably wasting money using it for light loads, but I can live with it.
    Don Verna


  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by centershot View Post
    No, Lino is 84-12-4. When mixed 50/50 with pure lead it yields an alloy of 92-6-2. Cut it again, 50/50, and you have 96-3-1 which is essentially COWW alloy. Mix in 2% tin and you're pretty close to 94-3-3. I've been using this for several years now in pistol and rifle loads up to 2000 fps and am very satisfied with it.
    You are correct sir, I edited my post!

  14. #14
    Boolit Buddy Gobeyond's Avatar
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    94-3-3 sounds good to me. But how would you arrive there with Lino type and range scrap and 50-50 solder. Does someone have a link to learn the math of it? It’s an end product and the pencils have stated it. With different ingredients I have to go a different way.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gobeyond View Post
    94-3-3 sounds good to me. But how would you arrive there with Lino type and range scrap and 50-50 solder. Does someone have a link to learn the math of it? It’s an end product and the pencils have stated it. With different ingredients I have to go a different way.
    There is a spreadsheet somewhere but the math is high school algebra.

    You do have to know what is the composition of the ingredients.

    To get 94-3-3 with Lino, range scrap and 50-50 solder, Start with 6 pounds of range scrap and lets call that pure even though it might have a little antimony and if you know it has a bunch then use a little more solder than I call for, add 2 pounds of lino (84-12-4) is 1.68 pounds lead, .24 pounds antimony and .08 pounds of tin. 96-3-3 has equal antimony and tin so you got to up the tin with 50-50 solder to equalize the tin you add .32 pounds (.16 pounds tin) your total is now 8.32 pounds, 7.84 pounds lead, .24 pounds antimony and .24 pounds tin. 7.84/8.32=.942 lead, .24/8.16=.0294 antimony and same for tin. Very close to 94-3-3. I admit I got this by trial and error. It would have taken me longer to write the equations. Use 8 pounds of range scrap instead of 6 and you are pretty close to 96-2-2.


    easy one is pure (range scrap) and solder. a pound of 50/50 solder is a half pound of tin and a half pound of lead. 10 pounds of pure and 1 pound of 50/50 solder is 10.5 pounds of lead and .5 pounds of tin that is 21 to 1 or very close to 20 to 1 which is a pretty common alloy for old timers, black powder or non-magnum revolvers.

    We often consider COWW to be 96-3-1 so 10 pounds would be 9.6 lead, .3 Antimony and .1 tin. If you want a balanced alloy you could add half pound of 50/50 solder (.25 lead, .25 tin) and you would have 9.9 lead, .3 antimony and .35 tin. since the total weight is now 10.5 pounds 9.9/10.5 is 94.3, .3/10.5 is .027 and .35/10.5 is .033. Round that off to the nearest percent and you have 94-3-3. Add 3 pounds of range scrap and you are pretty close to 96-2-2.
    Tim
    Last edited by dtknowles; 03-26-2023 at 01:26 AM.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by kentfielddude View Post
    where did you get your isotope container scrap from?
    In a large metropolitan population center just one or two radiopharmacies usually supply all the hospitals, medical centers and specialty facilities with the radioisotopes for diagnostic imaging and radiotherapies. The pharmacies get the materials from cyclotrons and reactors in various lead containers which usually get scrapped because processing and return shipping is too costly.

    A quick on line search usually will turn up the radiopharmacies supplying your area. A call or stopping by with a note saying you’ll beat the local scrapyard price and will pick up to boot might net you a bonanza of clean lead.

    Be advised, to really make the manager go for it you may want to take all they have. I recall another member here who was a regular buyer talking about hundreds to thousands of pounds at a time, and I can personally confirm that.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master
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    No need to reinvent the wheel. Elmer Keith had it right a long time ago with his 20/1 alloy. When sized correctly and lubed well, it works great in most revolver loads. Start scrounging for pewter. A while back I bought a big stack of pewter plates at an antique store. Made them an offer that I could live with and they took it. Don't forget to look in the swapping and selling section too. I got a good amount of lead with 5% antimony in it there, easy to make Lyman #2 with it.
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  18. #18
    Boolit Buddy Gobeyond's Avatar
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    If you are tired of alloying 94-3-3 is good for just about anything. I use it or just about anything I can get. But I’m not tired of it, I keep it simple. Alloying is an extra step. $3.40 is kinda high. Take a break until you feel the need.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master
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    You guys taught me to use the 20/1 alloy and thus far I like it just fine. However, finding pewter is proving to be impossible for me and I was wondering if there is another metal that can be used instead of pewter or tin to make a usable alloy for my slower speed handguns. 38spec, 45acp and some 9mm for my Sten.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Winger Ed. View Post
    Lyman #2 is sort of the benchmark and has proven itself to be good in most applications.
    Concur, Lyman #2 alloy [90/5/5] is probably the best ternary alloy to use.

    Your GT Bullet ally os very similar to COWWs plus 2% tin alloy. That alloy is very good and usable for all but the finest in accuracy, especially at higher velocities of 2000+ fps.
    Larry Gibson

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