Taurus 856 problems??

[frkelly74]

I was going to give my daughter a Charter arms 38 .. It is very light and fool proof with good ammo. She fired it to qualify for her CPL, 100 rounds without a break. It was too much, the trigger on that bites you and makes your finger raw. She did finish and qualify though. Afterwards she tried my G2C and liked it better so she has that now. I had it broken in and had gotten a load it liked worked up. It did require a breakin period but smoothed out pretty nice. So now I have the taurus 856 I got to replace the Charter Arms gun and no Taurus G2C. The 856 is heavier and a 6 shooter and seems reliable to me and more comfortable.. Still looking at the g3c now when they are on sale.

[dverna]

https://www.luckygunner.com/labs/rev...cs-test/#38spl

There are a number of good factory loads or the .38 even with a 2" barrel. If you want to save some money, you can buy factory bullets and reload. Nice to be able to practice with relatively inexpensive cast bullets. .38 is darn near idiot proof.

I agree with your opinion on the revolver being a good choice. Simple to use and no slide to rack. If your daughter likes it then it is an excellent choice.

[leadhead]

Well, I picked it up this morning from RK. I got the last one in the store. It seemed to check out OK
but won't know for sure till I get it to the range. I do load and use cast bullets in all my firearms.
It's getting pretty hard to find any kind of .38 special ammo. I did pick up a box of Federal .38 +P
punch awhile back, but would only use it for defense only.

[Four-Sixty]

Here is my experience with an 856 that is almost a year old.

I now have about 700 rounds through mine. It sits waiting for me to send it off for repair. About 200 rounds in, I got FTF. It turned out the bit that holds the cylinder in place, at the bottom of the frame, won't engage the cylinder. So, about 4 or 5 rounds in of shooting, the cylinder that is no longer balanced would rotate due to mass (unfired bullets) being largely to one side of the cylinder. The cylinder rotates so that the loaded bullets end up in the 6 o'clock position. Slow fire makes this worse.

As I've shot it more and more my 856 nearly won't work at all now. I've taken off the side plate and inspected the parts. I've cleaned and lubed the parts. I can't resolve the issue. I did note that when reassembling it, if you tighten the screw too much the frame warps.

I was really excited about this gun. I love 38 special. Mine is the blued 3" model. I go to the range pretty much every weekend. I need a gun I can count on. No more Taurus revolvers for me. I had a G2, and it worked 100%. So, I'd buy a semi auto from them. And, the grips on the 856 are just uncomfortable for my extra large hands.

Your milage may vary. I shoot my guns, and am kind of hard on them. I have returned at least 5 guns to the factory. This Taurus will be number six. I should be a gun tester, or QC person...

[FergusonTO35]

Very sorry to hear that. I shoot my carry guns alot, I figure those are the ones which should receive the most use. The 856 I used to have was excellent, as my G3C has been so far.

I bailed out my layaway 856 yesterday. Soon as I got it home I detail stripped it and installed a Wolff 9 pound trigger return spring. These springs are a bit long to fit multiple guns, I had to trim mine about .25". Everything appears to be in order and I really like the design. Hopefully it will shoot as good as it looks.

[leadhead]

Very sorry to hear that. I shoot my carry guns alot, I figure those are the ones which should receive the most use. The 856 I used to have was excellent, as my G3C has been so far.

I bailed out my layaway 856 yesterday. Soon as I got it home I detail stripped it and installed a Wolff 9 pound trigger return spring. These springs are a bit long to fit multiple guns, I had to trim mine about .25". Everything appears to be in order and I really like the design. Hopefully it will shoot as good as it looks.

I just ordered the Wolff trigger hammer and trigger return spring for mine too. The hammer spring is supposed to reduce the
double action pull. Will see. Did you get the stainless model?

[FergusonTO35]

Yes, mine is stainless. I left the original hammer spring in place. My aim was just to reduce the pull down to about what my other snubs are, not get a light trigger. I would guess it is now about 5 pounds SA and 9 pounds DA which is fine with me.

When you go to replace the trigger return spring, you will notice the rear of it is captured by a little round piece that is held by a cast in pin on the left side of the frame. The side of the round piece with the smaller hole that has a countersunk opening faces forward and captures the spring and guide rod. Here is how I determined how much to trim the new spring. Remove the spring, guide rod, and circular piece. Put the new spring on the guide rod and compress it down as far as it will go on a flat surface. You should trim enough off of the new spring so that the guide rod will come out the other side of the circular piece to allow you to capture the whole assembly by putting a small pin through the protruding end of the guide rod, same way you would a hammer spring. Reassemble, and make sure your trigger has full rearward movement until the top contacts the frame and cannot go any farther. If not, just trim the spring a little at a time until it's right.

[FergusonTO35]

Here is my experience with an 856 that is almost a year old.

I now have about 700 rounds through mine. It sits waiting for me to send it off for repair. About 200 rounds in, I got FTF. It turned out the bit that holds the cylinder in place, at the bottom of the frame, won't engage the cylinder. So, about 4 or 5 rounds in of shooting, the cylinder that is no longer balanced would rotate due to mass (unfired bullets) being largely to one side of the cylinder. The cylinder rotates so that the loaded bullets end up in the 6 o'clock position. Slow fire makes this worse.

As I've shot it more and more my 856 nearly won't work at all now. I've taken off the side plate and inspected the parts. I've cleaned and lubed the parts. I can't resolve the issue. I did note that when reassembling it, if you tighten the screw too much the frame warps.

I was really excited about this gun. I love 38 special. Mine is the blued 3" model. I go to the range pretty much every weekend. I need a gun I can count on. No more Taurus revolvers for me. I had a G2, and it worked 100%. So, I'd buy a semi auto from them. And, the grips on the 856 are just uncomfortable for my extra large hands.

Your milage may vary. I shoot my guns, and am kind of hard on them. I have returned at least 5 guns to the factory. This Taurus will be number six. I should be a gun tester, or QC person...

There is a large spring loaded plunger on the crane where it fits backwards into the frame. This plunger applies pressure to the cylinder stop, causing it to actuate. Did you check this part? May simply be some metal burs or something keeping it from working.

[leadhead]

Yes, mine is stainless. I left the original hammer spring in place. My aim was just to reduce the pull down to about what my other snubs are, not get a light trigger. I would guess it is now about 5 pounds SA and 9 pounds DA which is fine with me.

When you go to replace the trigger return spring, you will notice the rear of it is captured by a little round piece that is held by a cast in pin on the left side of the frame. The side of the round piece with the smaller hole that has a countersunk opening faces forward and captures the spring and guide rod. Here is how I determined how much to trim the new spring. Remove the spring, guide rod, and circular piece. Put the new spring on the guide rod and compress it down as far as it will go on a flat surface. You should trim enough off of the new spring so that the guide rod will come out the other side of the circular piece to allow you to capture the whole assembly by putting a small pin through the protruding end of the guide rod, same way you would a hammer spring. Reassemble, and make sure your trigger has full rearward movement until the top contacts the frame and cannot go any farther. If not, just trim the spring a little at a time until it's right.

OK, thanks. I watched a couple of U-tube video's on it. I had it apart this morning and it doesn't look that hard.

[Four-Sixty]

There is a large spring loaded plunger on the crane where it fits backwards into the frame. This plunger applies pressure to the cylinder stop, causing it to actuate. Did you check this part? May simply be some metal burs or something keeping it from working.

I have taken the side plate off, yet not worked up the courage to remove and individually inspect the parts. Oddly, the problem has become progressively worse. It is to the point now it almost does not work at all. So, I suppose that should actually make it easier to troubleshoot shouldn't it? My guess, at the moment, is there is a failed spring. Is the spring in that area available from Wolff?

[FergusonTO35]

Last time I checked Wolff only made springs for the trigger return and hammer. However, if you measure the dimensions it shouldn't be hard to match it up to a universal spring. Still, probably best to just let Taurus handle it since you have a warranty. They might even just give you a new gun.

[leadhead]

Last time I checked Wolff only made springs for the trigger return and hammer. However, if you measure the dimensions it shouldn't be hard to match it up to a universal spring. Still, probably best to just let Taurus handle it since you have a warranty. They might even just give you a new gun.

OK I've been checking the internet for some of the problems the 856 has and the biggest problem seems to be the cylinder
turning both ways when the trigger is barely moved to the rear. To me, this is a real problem, and I've watched how one guy
fixed it by filing the hand so it can engage the cylinder ratchet quicker. This makes a lot of sense to me, but others say it's
no problem at all and to just shoot it the way it is. The factory won't even address this as a problem.
What is your take on this?

[racepres]

OK I've been checking the internet for some of the problems the 856 has and the biggest problem seems to be the cylinder
turning both ways when the trigger is barely moved to the rear. To me, this is a real problem, and I've watched how one guy
fixed it by filing the hand so it can engage the cylinder ratchet quicker. This makes a lot of sense to me, but others say it's
no problem at all and to just shoot it the way it is. The factory won't even address this as a problem.
What is your take on this?

I rarely turn my Cylinder by Hand when engaging the Trigger... Maybe I try That Trick...Will Report.. Got a hunch my oldest H&R may be Guilty!!!!

[FergusonTO35]

OK I've been checking the internet for some of the problems the 856 has and the biggest problem seems to be the cylinder
turning both ways when the trigger is barely moved to the rear. To me, this is a real problem, and I've watched how one guy
fixed it by filing the hand so it can engage the cylinder ratchet quicker. This makes a lot of sense to me, but others say it's
no problem at all and to just shoot it the way it is. The factory won't even address this as a problem.
What is your take on this?

Most revolvers I've encountered have a point where, when thumbing back the hammer or pulling the trigger double action, you can stop and turn the cylinder manually. It has never been a problem for me when actually shooting. I'll check out my wheelguns tonight and see if any of them do this.

[racepres]

Welp.. only the Pietta Replica Remington, and the poor old abused model 900 H&R will do that.. None of the others will do that... not even the Taurus model 85, nor .32 H&R.. Not in wrong direction anyway.. going With the Hand... of course they advance..or the hand could Not push them...

[FergusonTO35]

On my 856, if you pull the hammer back about 40% of the way there is a point where you can manually rotate the cylinder to the left. It won't go to the right at all. I put 35 rounds through it after work with my favorite loads and she did as good or better than any of my other snubs. Double action is especially good.

[leadhead]

On my 856, if you pull the hammer back about 40% of the way there is a point where you can manually rotate the cylinder to the left. It won't go to the right at all. I put 35 rounds through it after work with my favorite loads and she did as good or better than any of my other snubs. Double action is especially good.

Good to hear Ferguson. The problem as I understand it, is if your shooting in double action, and you shoot say 4 rounds, and
then start to pull the trigger on the 5th shot and just barely pull the trigger for the 5th shot, that drops the cylinder bolt just
enough that the weight of the unfired rounds will move the cylinder clockwise and then with full pull, you will end up on a
already fired round. I can't explain it any better than that. If you put 2 dummy rounds with 158 gr bullets at the bottom of
cylinder and fire in double action, and just barely move the trigger a hair back, you'll see the cylinder counter rotate from the
weight of those 2 rounds.

[FergusonTO35]

Hmm, I see. I will check it out, however I suspect this is a minor design flaw that any revolver based on the S&W double action system could have. Parts fit and tolerance would play in as well.

[leadhead]

Hmm, I see. I will check it out, however I suspect this is a minor design flaw that any revolver based on the S&W double action system could have. Parts fit and tolerance would play in as well.

There's a whole 3 pages of how to fix this problem on this sight. Just google Taurus 856 cylinder hand problem or such and you
should be able to find it. I'm going to "fix" mine today if I have time.

[racepres]

There's a whole 3 pages of how to fix this problem on this sight. Just google Taurus 856 cylinder hand problem or such and you
should be able to find it. I'm going to "fix" mine today if I have time.

Interesting I'm pretty sure a Longer Hand will fix my H&R, not worried about the Remington replica...
Will look for this "Fix"