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Thread: RCBS FL sizing die - cams over, with case in, won't raise completely

  1. #21
    Boolit Master huntinlever's Avatar
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    Good info guys. I've since tried both and both work perfectly fine. I have no idea what the problem was, especially since I'd previously deliberately lubed healthily after I couldn't get any resolution.

    It occurred to me - is it possible the vent hole in the die was somehow blocked? I blew it out and cleaned the die with solvent and it was after that that things went to normal. I still can't believe the system is so airtight it would do this, or even if it was, that's enough air pressure to prevent the full sizing. I didn't change anything and it now works so my guess is simple friction, though I've never had anything seize like this.
    -Paul

  2. #22
    Boolit Master 243winxb's Avatar
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    Is the wax a heavier viscosity? Does it dry out? Strange that it works now. Plugged went hole, maybe? But some dies may not have a vert? Strange.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master huntinlever's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 243winxb View Post
    Is the wax a heavier viscosity? Does it dry out? Strange that it works now. Plugged went hole, maybe? But some dies may not have a vert? Strange.
    Yeah, the only thing I can figure out is the vent hole (this does have one). Just seems weird, can't imagine that would completely seize it up. Yep, really weird.
    -Paul

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by huntinlever View Post
    Yeah, the only thing I can figure out is the vent hole (this does have one). Just seems weird, can't imagine that would completely seize it up. Yep, really weird.
    Air is compressible. It's not a venting issue.
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  5. #25
    Boolit Master huntinlever's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by M-Tecs View Post
    Air is compressible. It's not a venting issue.
    Right. Duh, lol. I should know - scuba diver and blasted a hole in my leg when I was a kid from sandblasting, working for my dad's company. 50 years ago, scar looks like a lamprey latched on.


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    -Paul

  6. #26
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    In your picture it looks like it stopped right about where the depriming pin would be making contact. Perhaps the pin was skewed just enough and the flash hole was off centered just enough to jam everything up. Then the next time the case was turned enough for the pin to hit properly. I’d pull the depriming pin/expander out and roll it on a flat surface to see if the pin is slightly off centered.

  7. #27
    Boolit Master
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    He had tried it without the ball and pin with the same results.

  8. #28
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rickf1985 View Post
    He had tried it without the ball and pin with the same results.
    Ah yes, silly me. I did read that but had forgotten it.

  9. #29
    Boolit Master omgb's Avatar
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    Remove the decapping assembly and try again. If it works, just adjust the decapper as required. BTW, to properly set the FL die, raise the ram and screw down the die until it makes contact. Lower the ram. Now screw in the die 1/8 of a turn. Raise the ram and check for slight, and I mean slight, cam over. You are good to go.
    R J Talley
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  10. #30
    Boolit Man hades's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by omgb View Post
    Remove the decapping assembly and try again. If it works, just adjust the decapper as required. BTW, to properly set the FL die, raise the ram and screw down the die until it makes contact. Lower the ram. Now screw in the die 1/8 of a turn. Raise the ram and check for slight, and I mean slight, cam over. You are good to go.
    Who's this comment to?


    OP did exactly this....

  11. #31
    Boolit Master huntinlever's Avatar
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    Sorry for the late reply guys. I mentioned I got the RCBS to work, though don't ask me how, still a mystery. That said, I've since acquired the Hornady new dimension die and vastly prefer it - never much of a fan of the RCBS locking system (on either the body, or stem), much prefer the simple O-Ring of the Hornady. Also considering getting the Microjust seating stem. Now that I'm using the Hornady OAL gauge and comparator, I'm feeling a lot more confident in the seating and curious on whether the Microjust will make switching between bullets (here, Speer 200 Hot Cor, Hornady 225-250's Sp-RP, and Barnes 250 TSX) easier. Cheaper, too, if it means one die can handle the many bullets.

    Thanks again.
    -Paul

  12. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by huntinlever View Post
    Sorry for the late reply guys. I mentioned I got the RCBS to work, though don't ask me how, still a mystery. That said, I've since acquired the Hornady new dimension die and vastly prefer it - never much of a fan of the RCBS locking system (on either the body, or stem), much prefer the simple O-Ring of the Hornady. Also considering getting the Microjust seating stem. Now that I'm using the Hornady OAL gauge and comparator, I'm feeling a lot more confident in the seating and curious on whether the Microjust will make switching between bullets (here, Speer 200 Hot Cor, Hornady 225-250's Sp-RP, and Barnes 250 TSX) easier. Cheaper, too, if it means one die can handle the many bullets.

    Thanks again.
    IMHO we will never know exactly what caused the issue. I still wonder if the die has an incorrect inner profile somehow. I always thought of imperial as a better lube than other stuff, it was often marketed for case forming and such things.
    Both ends WHAT a player

  13. #33
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    I have found on occasion that a new die needs to be seasoned. I'm guessing that the finish may have some micro surface issue and brass sticks to it. On one particularly bad one I even polished the interior of the die, but in the end I had to run the brass in until it went hard, removed it and cleaned and re-lubed it and repeat. Eventually the die worked like it should, no issues, normal effort.

    I did a bit of experimenting with different lubes in the process of "seasoning" the die, and one lube towered above the rest. The LEE Resizing Lube was noticeably better than the rest. I found Imperial sizing wax to be noticeably inferior in just about every aspect. After "seasoning" I just use the old RCBS or Bonanza "syrup oil" on a pad, old school. The inside of the necks get a wipe with LEE.

    The LEE is an industrial lube used on forming dies in factories, LEE just has it packaged for them. There is usually a tube or two within easy reach, it works. I think it liquifies under pressure and penetrates the metal, how it does that I've just chalked up to magic. Imperial sizing wax lacks the magic.

    Nitro

  14. #34
    Boolit Master
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    I've been doing this reloading stuff for a really long time and find that any commercial case sizing lube works good IF it's applied and used correctly. I like Lee Lube, Hornady Unique and Imperial best because they are easy/fast to finger apply and they're clean to use.

    What cases are really hard to size? I've happily reformed a lot of common surplus military .30-06 machine gun brass into premium .22-250 cases with Imperial. For most of us, sizing doesn't get any more demanding than that.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check