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Thread: S&W Barrel/Cylinder Gap

  1. #21
    Boolit Master hoodat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Jefferson State
    Posts
    666
    Quote Originally Posted by schutzen-jager View Post
    jmho - it would take a very extended amount of time to remove a few thousands with a fine cut hard stone - i would start with a file + finish polishing with the stone for a smoother surface -
    It's been my experience that .002" goes pretty quick with a file. (like one stroke) I'd be after minimum clearance which allows reliable function. Slow and careful usually works for me. jd
    It seems that people who do almost nothing, often complain loudly when it's time to do it.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    914
    I'd use a file and/or stones. But I can sleep just fine making things close enough to work right in 5 minutes versus taking two hours to make them slightly more perfect. My motto: if it doesn't look straight, you're standing too close.

    With a file, you can be more conservative. And if you get binding, just take a little more. Think about that while you're putting your barrel back in after facing off a thous too little.
    Last edited by gloob; 03-03-2023 at 11:33 PM.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check