I got a CIA import S&W Model 10 receiver and installed a barrel.
Front sight is straight up but there is no light between the barrel and cylinder!
The question is do I remove the barrel and make a light cut and polish the forcing cone in the lathe or just take some light cuts with a file?
Edited to correct screwed up question!
Last edited by deltaenterprizes; 03-03-2023 at 10:18 AM.
What Model 10? Before cutting and disassembling remove the screw that retains the yoke and see if that provides any clearance. Many early model guns needed this screw to be hand fitted.
By an old repair manual the BC gap (barrel to cylinder) should be .003 to .008 the rear of the cylinder to the frame should be around .062. Once a new barrel is installed I believe there is a cutter that comes in thru the barrel to cut the face of the barrel back to the correct gap ten another reamer is used to finish off the forcing cone.
Remove cylinder end shake before measuring barrel to cylinder gap.
factory specification between back of barrel + cylinder face is .004 - .006 - head space or rear gauge measured between the right side upper part of frame to rear of cylinder varies - centerfires .060 - 064 - recessed cylinders .012 - .016 - most rimfires .007 - .008 - measurements taken with cylinder held firmly to rear - make sure that barrel rear surface is square + cylinder is turning true on it's axis before taking measurements with accurate feeler gauges - - before cutting does the cylinder show no gap on all chambers + is head space in specs ? - if head space is correct + cyl. is running true you can carefully file slight amount off barrel w/o removing it + forcing cone should be ok - hope this helps - let us know -
Last edited by schutzen-jager; 03-02-2023 at 03:00 PM.
never pick a fight with an old man - if he is too old to fight he will just kill you -
in this current crisis our government is not the solution , it is the problem ! -
ILLEGITIMI NON CARBORUNDUM
as they say in latin
There are shims available that push the cylinder back. Gotta make sure you don't mess up headspace.
Rosewood
Evangelical, deplorable redneck and proud of it.
I recommend the smith and wesson jerry Kuhnhausen book.
I have it!Originally Posted by zymguy
The question is whether to use the lathe or a file to increase the size of the gap?
That was not stated in your original post.
While it can be done with a file unless you are highly skilled at using a file for this type of work I would suggest that for most people best results would be achieved using the lathe. Using a file doesn't require removing the barrel but keeping your cuts parallel could be an issues depending on your skill.
If indicating the barrel is an issue it can be done between aluminum or brass centers.
Last edited by M-Tecs; 03-03-2023 at 08:24 AM.
2nd Amendment of the U.S. Constitution. - "A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed."
"Before you argue with someone, ask yourself, is that person even mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of different perspectives? Because if not, there’s absolutely no point."
– Amber Veal
"The Highest form of ignorance is when your reject something you don't know anything about".
- Wayne Dyer
if other factors are in spec., why remove barrel when a few careful file strokes will solve the problem ? - most times the simple + easier solutions are the best -
never pick a fight with an old man - if he is too old to fight he will just kill you -
in this current crisis our government is not the solution , it is the problem ! -
ILLEGITIMI NON CARBORUNDUM
as they say in latin
Long ago I had a S&W .44 special that I sent to Armaloy for their hard chrome plating.
Yep, I had to file some plating from the forcing cone for the cylinder to spin freely. Just a careful bit of file work did the trick.
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I did a little File Fitting on an old model 10 that had too narrow of a cylinder gap.
It was .001 when the new cylinder was fitted.
But it bound up after two cylinders full were shot.
Filed to .003 worked out great.
But like mentioned by others.
Check the end play on the cylinder.
That is fairly easy to refit , then check the cylinder gap.
Brownells sells a facing cutter, sku # 080492540 for use with their forcing cone cutter kit that would make short work of this. It comes as part of the intermediate forcing cone cutting kit.
My brother and I each bought two of the J&G Gunsmith specials and used the Kit, SKU # 080480261 to regulate the cylinder gap. It works by putting the handle together, inserting it though the barrel with the guides and attaching the facing cutter. Use a good cutting oil and pull the cutter up snug to the forcing cone and then carefully turn the handle to trim the forcing cone. Trim a little bit, disassemble the rod and recheck the gap, looking for .003 to .006 inches. Go slow and you'll still be done in an hour or two.
_________________________________________________It's not that I can't spell: it is that I can't type.
Right tool for the job, a facing, forcing cone cutter with bushings set. Easy peasy..... Do mot look at a file or sand paper on a brick, etc.
“There is a remedy for all things, save death.“
Cervantes
“Never give up, never quit.”
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Roger’s Rangers
There are three kinds of men. The one that learns by reading. The few who learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves.
Will Rogers
jmho - why spend the money + time to correct something that might be performed with a simple just as effective easier solution ? - personally built at least 6 K +N frame gunsmith specials in past with mixed used parts + never had to spend $60.00 + in tools to make them safe + shootable - not all projects require specialized + expensive tools -
never pick a fight with an old man - if he is too old to fight he will just kill you -
in this current crisis our government is not the solution , it is the problem ! -
ILLEGITIMI NON CARBORUNDUM
as they say in latin
I have to agree ,
Why spend tons of money on tools for just one project.
I don't think that One Project is going to be set up for the finest shooting pistol on the planet.
But if you are going to build more , and at match grade.
Then it is Cost effective to buy the specialty tools.
That kit would most probably cost as much or more than the gun and barrel!
I only have $200 in the whole ball of wax!
I checked and the kit is $410 plus shipping and it’s out of stock!
Last edited by deltaenterprizes; 03-03-2023 at 04:17 PM.
I'd go less aggressive than a file. Maybe a very fine, hard oilstone. jd
It seems that people who do almost nothing, often complain loudly when it's time to do it.
jmho - it would take a very extended amount of time to remove a few thousands with a fine cut hard stone - i would start with a file + finish polishing with the stone for a smoother surface -
never pick a fight with an old man - if he is too old to fight he will just kill you -
in this current crisis our government is not the solution , it is the problem ! -
ILLEGITIMI NON CARBORUNDUM
as they say in latin
Only you can determine what the most preferred method is for you. The most preferred method is based on your skills, equipment and somewhat by the amount of material needing to be removed. A couple of thousands is different than .015 or .020".
Most of the recommended methods are all workable. Using the lathe with a travel indicator or DRO will be the most repeatable method for the average user.
I've spent the last 40 years fixing guns for friends that thought their gunsmithing skills were up to the task.
2nd Amendment of the U.S. Constitution. - "A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed."
"Before you argue with someone, ask yourself, is that person even mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of different perspectives? Because if not, there’s absolutely no point."
– Amber Veal
"The Highest form of ignorance is when your reject something you don't know anything about".
- Wayne Dyer
I have been a machinist for 20 years, I just hate to remove the barrel since everything is aligned so nicely!
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