1898 Krag Help

[Powderhorn1955]

Thank you both for the info! All of this on different methods and solvents is a learning experience for me. I have been cleaning guns since I was old enough to shoot but I have never tackled anything like this.
ulav8r You went to a lot of effort here. The electrical portion I get. I actually had a small electronics business in the '70s. A chemist I aint. I would like to see the schematics for the regulated unit. I will do some searching myself.
charlie b I do have a decent bore guide. I use it on all of my modern rifles and a muzzle protector on my front stuffers. I appreciate the info on the solvents. I have been listing the ones recommended here. Kroil, original Hoppes and Bench Rest are my usuals so I am afraid I am going to be making a solvent run soon. Been hoping for a weather change so I can get to the garage with this. My wife just doesn't seem to have the same appreciation for solvent smells that I have.
Thanks very much men.
Ed

[ulav8r]

Powderhorn, I tried sending a PM last night, but it does not show in my out box. PM me your email and I will send a copy of that jpg.

[gnoahhh]

If the fouling is over 100 years old I will guarantee you it's cupro-nickel not gilding metal. You will be hating life if you attempt its removal with anything but a strong ammonia solution - ask me how I know. It's a far different animal than normal modern copper fouling. The stuff often just laughs at copper fouling solvents.

Were it mine I would remove the stock, and set up outdoors, and pour the bore full of Stronger Ammonia (the Real McCoy nasty stuff, not what you find in the supermarket), stopper the barrel with rubber corks, let sit about 15 minutes and dump it. Do not try this trick indoors, kids - again ask me how I know. Immediately neutralize with white vinegar, then water, then a ton of dry patches, then oil it thoroughly. Repeat as necessary, but do not screw around neutralizing/wiping/oiling the bore as it'll flash rust in a heartbeat if you don't. I cringe when I'm confronted by cupro-nickel fouling.

Frankly, shooting it the way it is may yield decent results and encouragement to leave it the heck alone!

[Powderhorn1955]

Interesting gnoahhh. Well I am not sure exactly when the gun was fired last. My Dad is no longer here and he would be the one to know. I remember him saying that it was fired on the farm as he was growing up. Dad was born in '25 and I believe he left home at 16. That means a minimum of 82 years. I'll just bet that is close enough to 100 to be a problem. If a person were to try to remove it this way where can you purchase this ammonia?
I really get the idea that you would recommend the " leave it the heck alone method".
I received the new mirror set for my borescope last week. Just trying to get some time to get back to it. I can see clean from dirty but before I would ever put a round through it I would seek the opinion of a good gunsmith. Is it really possible to shoot the cupro-nicklel out of the bore? I would think that either lead or copper would simply hang up on the existing buildup.
Thanks very much for your heads up and options. Whether it is what I would like to hear or not, all of the info here is appreciated.

Take care,
Ed

[Whole Bunches]

Why don’t you start this way: If you have Hoppes solvent, soak a patch with it, run the patch through the bore, set the rifle so it’s lying down and simply let it soak. Every 12 hours run a dry patch through the bore followed by another wet Hoppes patch and let it soak. Report what the dry patches look like. It won’t hurt and will begin the cleaning process. As long as the dry patches are coming out blue, green, black or brown you will know you are removing firing residue. So what if it takes a week or more, it won’t hurt and is easy on the bore.

Even better, if you have the chance, every few hours turn the rifle over onto its other side to let the solvent work equally around the bore and give it time to work. Don’t be in a hurry. On a new to me milsurp it’s sometimes taken a couple of weeks or more to get a clean bore. If you want, a fresh bore soaking can be done sooner than 12 hours during the first couple of days as the fouling being removed will be heavier at first and may use up the oomph of the applied Hoppes.

[cwtebay]

Congrats on your rifle, whether or not it made it to the Great War is irrelevant - it's yours as a multigenerational birthright!
I went crazy with Krag's quite a while back filling an order for movie props (n=120ish). The best of them have had the worst bores. They all had to be made "shootably safe" so I did my share of cleaning.
1) become proficient in field stripping the Krag
2) stainless steel cleaning rod!!
3) I use stiff nylon brushes and Kroil
4) shoot 10 cast bullets
5) clean and clean and shoot
I have an found exactly 2 that refused my efforts. It's definitely a lather -rinse-repeat method but worth the effort. Each bit of advice you have received is definitely valid, and each have found their own method that has been successful for them.
I look forward to hearing your results!

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[Powderhorn1955]

Whole Bunches, that is pretty much my plan. I have plenty of Hoppes and always have Kroil around. Being retired I have the time. I am in no hurry at all. My goal is to bring the bore back to being usable with no damage done. I believe right now we are on the same page. Thanks for your suggestions!

cwtebay Thanks for the congrats and you are correct. The rifle was my Grandfathers and it makes little difference beyond that. That is likely the biggest reason that I would like to see her back in shape.
Are you saying 120 rifles? If the bores were in this condition, that was quite a chore.
A few questions. I see you specify nylon brushes. Any particular reason? I have allot of bronze brushes and several nickel plated brushes. All new.
Do you run your brushes dry or with Kroil?
What exactly does shooting lead do? I would think that the lead would adhere to the rough buildup in the bore.
I had my 30 cal. mirror on my scope today and gave the barrel a really close look before I begin this adventure. I found that the breech end seems to be the worst. It looked as though there was some spatter in the chamber area. The center 1/3 of the barrel improves some with the last 1/3 to the muzzle being the best. Does this make any sense? Don't get me wrong . None of it looks good.
I am really glad to hear that you were successful with all but 2. There is hope! I have gotten allot of encouragement from this group. My first scoping of this barrel nearly told me it was toast. I have learned here that it probably is the norm.
Thanks very much to you both!
Take care,
Ed

[Krag 1901]

Yeah, I'd clean the bore with bronze brushes and Hoppe's/ECT and patches until it looks clean. A original Krag bore will be pitted but that doesn't mean it won't shoot well. My 1901 carbine was very pitted, but after a new Criterion bbl was put on, it shot about the same, but easier to clean.
From the story of the gun, you have no way to know what it was last fired with, lead, CuproNickel, copper Jacketed ??? From the description of the bore I'd guess it was lead fouling. Lots of post WW1 loads were lead for the Krag. It'll take a longtime to clean completely. Just keep at it until you see no improvement.
If you want o shoot it, try the Lee 312-165-2R mold and ~20-28 gr H/IMR 4198. Cheap and effective, soft shooting.

[Whole Bunches]

So, Powderhorn, how are your patches looking after bore soaking with Hoppes?

[Powderhorn1955]

Hey Whole Bunches. Good to hear from you.
It has been one week tomorrow. 2 applications daily. I wish I could tell you they were any color. Just the color of Hoppes. I believe the bore is cleaner ( other than the buildup ) than it has ever been but no sign of any fouling on the patches. I am headed down right now for another application. I moved this operation to the basement as this Nebraska weather just won't allow it in an unheated shop right now.
Thanks for checking in.
Ed

[Powderhorn1955]

Krag 1901
Thanks for chiming in. You are correct. I don't have a clue as to what went down the bore. Through the scope it is looks is silver spatter. Looks as though it could be lead but I would think by now lead would give up some color on the patches. I 'm thinkin as long as it's been in there it doesn't want to leave.
I've got plenty of time. Hoppes is cheap.
Appreciate your help!
Ed

[Powderhorn1955]

Just an update. Whole Bunches I answered you to soon. I started brushing this afternoon shortly after I answered you. There was Hoppes in the bore. I added some to a new brush and began scrubbing. After maybe a dozen passes through the bore I noticed that the fluid coming out with the brush looked discolored. I wrapped a clean patch around the brush, soaked it and ran it down the bore. That patch came out black with some goo on it. Just kept changing patches on the brush and adding solvent. The patches changed from black to brown to blue to green and finally back to Hoppes color. I could not have been happier. Some thing was beginning to move. As I wanted to keep the bore soaking ,I went back to a jag and patches. I ran 7 loaded with solvent down the barrel before they came through clean. I also noticed that about the first 1/3 of the barrel nearest the breech seemed to be the worst. I could see it with the scope but also feel it every time I patched the barrel. That area feels much smoother now. I know this is a long way from done. What came loose today is just the tip of the iceberg but it is a positive and I have the time. Running short on brushes though. Thought I may try the nylon ones as there is allot of brushing ahead. I have 1 nickel plated brush and have been told it won't hurt steel but it seems pretty stiff.
Anyway, I believe things are looking up. The bore is soaking now for tomorrows round!
Take care,
Ed

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Just an update. Whole Bunches I answered you to soon. I started brushing this afternoon shortly after I answered you. There was Hoppes in the bore. I added some to a new brush and began scrubbing. After maybe a dozen passes through the bore I noticed that the fluid coming out with the brush looked discolored. I wrapped a clean patch around the brush, soaked it and ran it down the bore. That patch came out black with some goo on it. Just kept changing patches on the brush and adding solvent. The patches changed from black to brown to blue to green and finally back to Hoppes color. I could not have been happier. Some thing was beginning to move.

>>>SNIP

That is great news.

[Powderhorn1955]

Thanks Jon. Not sure how much that old bore is willing to give up but will just keep pecking away! A patch just seems to be a Hoppes applicator. Removes nothing until the brush is used. Picked up some nylon brushes at Scheels this morning. I am going to give them a try. Not sure if they will be as effective as bronze.
Best to ya,
Ed