WidenersMidSouth Shooters SupplyReloading EverythingRotoMetals2
Lee PrecisionSnyders JerkyTitan ReloadingLoad Data
Inline Fabrication Repackbox
Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: Linotype vs. monotype

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Mar 2021
    Posts
    7

    Linotype vs. monotype

    Hello, just quick question that may or may not be a moot point. I recently acquired a very large amount of Linotype and monotype directly from an old print shop. Upwards of 4K pounds of it. I was grabbing type indiscriminately when loading up not knowing there is a real difference at the time. I do know now that monotype tends to be more of a foundry alloy and can be much harder. Is there a real difference when it comes to our usage between Linotype and monotype or can they be used interchangeably? Is one more desirable than the other?

  2. #2
    Boolit Master nueces5's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    Buenos Aires
    Posts
    566
    I have bought like this, everything mixed, and the solution I gave him was to melt a couple of ingots and measure their hardness. I was surprised that it was a lot harder than the linotype, so when I used that hard lead, I put less of it.
    Impossible to separate

  3. #3
    Boolit Master 243winxb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    2,844

    Monotype vs Linotype

    Use less monotype to harden pure lead, when compared to linotype.

    BHN 15 is all that is needed. Less for light target loads.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    NE Kansas
    Posts
    2,433
    Usually, linotype, monotype and the spacers can all be of different alloys. You have "forever" to sort by type if you wish. Some will suggest melting a large batch, test for content, and adjust your alloy for this mix. The lino and mono are clearly different in appearance and might be best stored in their original form, if one ever needs to sell it. Spacers may be a mix of alloys so you can either melt a large batch and have someone like BNE give it an XRF scan and know exactly what that batch contains. Then make your blends from a known source. Take your time and decide how best to fit your needs.

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    England,Ar
    Posts
    7,693
    Congratulations, 4000# is a great score. As 243win's chart shows, there is a significant difference between the alloy of the two. If you are using this to add hardness to pure lead you can add less mono than lino. I usually make ingots from my scrap lead, mostly wheelweights, but I would leave your type metal in original form. Also, the lino spacers may or may not be lino. Sometimes they are softer lead. I would say the desirability would be about equal between the two.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    2,671
    It shouldn’t be too hard to separate the Lino and Lino spacers, distinctive by the thin strip shape, and, in the case of Lino proper, the lettering along one edge.

    Foundry and monotype do have different markings I have read, but separating all two tons of small type pieces is beyond a staggering amount of work. Small batches of each, maybe, can be segregated and weighed out for mixing batches of alloy, on an as needed basis.

    If you were to sell this, every box sent out could vary in the proportions of tin, antimony and lead. Some might care, others not. Some might sort a box of 50-60# (but for their labor might expect a lower price). Some might want an exact analysis, possible only by melting together a batch and having a sample XRF’d.

    Still, these are good sorts of problems to have. Congratulations!

  7. #7
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Mar 2023
    Posts
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by kevin c View Post
    It shouldn’t be too hard to separate the Lino and Lino spacers, distinctive by the thin strip shape, and, in the case of Lino proper, the lettering along one edge.

    Foundry and monotype do have different markings I have read, but separating all two tons of small type pieces is beyond a staggering amount of work. Small batches of each, maybe, can be segregated and weighed out for mixing batches of alloy, on an as needed basis.

    If you were to sell this, every box sent out could vary in the proportions of tin, antimony and lead. Some might care, others not. Some might sort a box of 50-60# (but for their labor might expect a lower price). Some might want an exact analysis, possible only by melting together a batch and having a sample XRF’d.

    Still, these are good sorts of problems to have. Congratulations!
    Actually, it's pretty easy to sort. Lino has the letters in strips where mono or foundry type is individual letters. But as you say, it will be a chore for that amount of type. I've been in printing for 47 years and dealt with it a lot.

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy Gobeyond's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Location
    NorCal
    Posts
    444
    Mix Lino 5# with pure 5# and get hardball 92-6-2 This is bhn16 Or mix 5# mono with 10# pure and get 93.1-4.7-2.2 for about bhn 12-13 or 14.
    Last edited by Gobeyond; 04-07-2023 at 10:33 AM.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check