WidenersLee PrecisionInline FabricationMidSouth Shooters Supply
RepackboxTitan ReloadingReloading EverythingLoad Data
RotoMetals2
Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: Strange problem with H&G mould

  1. #1
    Boolit Master FISH4BUGS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Inland from Seacoast New Hampshire
    Posts
    2,744

    Strange problem with H&G mould

    My #51 4 cavity is my go-to mould for all things 38/357. I use it a LOT!
    I just finished a run of some 2000 51's and are loading them in 38's as we speak.
    During the startup of the last casting session, I had a strange thing happen that in all my years, have never had happen.
    After the lead melted, I placed the mould on the top of the furnace to heat up. As I was moving it, it slipped and went about 1/4 way into the melt.
    Of course, the mould was still cold, so the mould got an instant coating of lead....kind of like a chocolate covering on an ice cream cone.
    I was able to clear enough off to use it and finish my session, but how I have a mould with a front face covered with lead.
    I can't get it off.
    I was thinking of removing the handles and putting it into an oven at about 500 and let the lead melt off, but I am not sure if that would have any effect on the mould.
    Your thoughts on how to remove this lead coating? It still works but it drives me wild knowing it is there.
    Collector and shooter of guns and other items that require a tax stamp, Lead and brass scrounger. Never too much brass, lead or components in inventory! Always looking to win beauty contests with my reloads.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master

    rancher1913's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    plains of colorado
    Posts
    3,640
    put it back on top of pot and leave it there covered in foil cap, worked for me when the same thing happened.
    if you are ever being chased by a taxidermist, don't play dead

  3. #3
    Super Moderator


    ShooterAZ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Flagstaff, AZ
    Posts
    12,056
    I have had it happen before too. My solution was to immerse the lead coated section into the melt for a several minutes. Wiggle it back and forth a few times, and it should come off.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master Texasflyboy's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    779
    Use a handheld propane torch or a mapp torch to melt the lead. That's what I've used. Try a small area first. And go slowly.

    If you want to try a low impact method (to avoid damaging the wood handles) place the mold in the freezer overnight. After you take the mold out and it starts to warm up, it may be easier to peel the lead off with needle nose pliers and a pick because the temperature difference between the iron mold and the lead overcoat will be significant. A squirt or two of Pam cooking spray may help the lead pop free.
    ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

    http://www.hensleygibbs.com

    ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

  5. #5
    Boolit Master


    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    East Texas
    Posts
    3,624
    Be careful, uneven heating can warp a mold!

  6. #6
    Boolit Master FISH4BUGS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Inland from Seacoast New Hampshire
    Posts
    2,744
    Well, now I have a plan of attack.
    Thanks for the suggestions!
    Collector and shooter of guns and other items that require a tax stamp, Lead and brass scrounger. Never too much brass, lead or components in inventory! Always looking to win beauty contests with my reloads.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2020
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    581
    I'm with leave it on the top of the pot and walk off crowd. When I buy a rusty iron mold I buff the rust with a fine wire wheel <I have a bead blaster also>and let heat on top of the pot and when the temp gets up submerge in a full pot of lead a few seconds and it restores the color evenly and makes darker. The lead falls off. A propane torch will remove it also
    Last edited by 45DUDE; 02-22-2023 at 05:44 PM.

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    14,455
    Sounds like the lead is in a mechanical lock do to holes or grooves being filled also. What I would recommend is a slow heat up on the pot to close to temp then dip to remove then back on op of pot and slow cool down. Simply sit on top of pot and turn pot off. The slow heat up from cold pot to hot and slow cool down will greatly reduce the chances of warping or damage.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check