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Thread: .30-06 With a Lee Loader? Info on milder loadings

  1. #1
    Boolit Master John in WI's Avatar
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    .30-06 With a Lee Loader? Info on milder loadings

    I just went to my local ammo go-to, and they wanted over $2 a round for some Hornady hunting ammo. I refuse to drop $40+ for a box of ammo!

    I do have about 200 casings, all fired from the same rifle, so it seems like a Lee Loader could do a good job reloading for a .30-06.

    I'd like to work up a milder plinking/200yd or less whitetail load for it. Maybe a 150-160gr, 2300-2500fps. (that should put it somewhere around a .30-30 or .308).

    I have a concern about using a Lee Loader for this. I have one for .38spl, and using Lee molded boolits, (.358 they are supposed to be), I frequently get a small shaving of lead coming off while seating them. Maybe I'm not using the Lee Loader right, but I watched several vids on it, it really seems like it's hard to do it wrong.

    Has anyone else had good success with a Lee Loader in .30-06, or something similar?

    Speaking of molds, I don't have a .30 mold, but am thinking about a Lee .309 in 150gr flat point. I realize that would really limit long range performance, vs. a Spitzer or round nose. But the absolute maximum range I can shoot is under 200 yards.

    At a quick glance, it looks like ~11gr Unique is a nice plinker load, and up to 24gr (according to an old Lyman manual) was hot.

    What do you think? The cost of supplies (a mold and a Lee Loader) would equal the cost of 4 boxes of shells at that price. If I could figure out a lighter recoiling load for it, I would take it out plinking more often.
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  2. #2
    Boolit Master
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    They work, I used one for 8mm when starting out reloading, IF you can get components it will work, just bell the case mouth if loading cast bullets.
    Get a loading listing for 30-06 and work from there ?

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    Boolit Master elmacgyver0's Avatar
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    If it is a bolt action or single shot rifle it should work fine, an autoloader not so much, if you art talking the whack-a-mole type Lee Loader.

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    Boolit Master fastdadio's Avatar
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    Some light load data;
    http://www.gmdr.com/lever/lowveldata.htm
    Some data to get you into the 2300-2500 fps range;
    http://bearblain.com/Service%20Rifle%20Loadings.html
    Deplorable infidel

  5. #5
    Boolit Master

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    18-21g 2400 with the Lee 170g has been a winner for us (gas checked). Probably only 1700-1900 fps. Put a pile of deer in the freezer at up to 150 yards, but most work has been done around 50 or so. Sub 2 MOA out to 300 yards, but the wind will work on you at those velocities. Not sure if you are flaring your cases for the 38, but a pair of needle nose pliers pushed into the case closed and rotated a bit will work in a pinch. If Unique is what you have on hand, I’d probably start at 13 grains in the 30-06 and work up until accuracy falls off. I wouldn’t expect you’ll get much past 16g and 1700 fps or so with a 150-170g boolit.

    The Lee loader will work, especially with light loads that don’t work the brass too much, but at some point your cases will get hard to chamber. A light 30-06 load was my first foray into handloading and, on the advice of those here, I went with a Lee Hand press, Lee 4 die set, and Lyman M-die expander. The 4 die set allows you to full length size (albeit with some effort) when cases become hard to chamber, as well as using the crimp die to uniformly squeeze down the flare. Keep asking questions if needed, all this was clear as mud for me at first. Good shooting to you!

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    as stated earlier, when seating a cast bullet you have expand the case mouth first so the shaved lead scenario does not occur.
    as far a bullet weight/ distance and velocity. with a stock factory barrel velocity will be limited by twist rate. a very good cast bullet design for 30-06 is Lyman 311299. since twist rate will limit max velocity higher bullet weight is not a problem and you may find to be good for longer distance.

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    It's easy enough to load 30-06 cartridges with a Lee Loader. You will need a small tool to bell the case mouths if cast bullets are used. There should be such a tool in your 38 SPL Lee Loader set. Lee used to sell them for 30 cal, not sure if they still do. If not, one would be easy enough to make.

    To be frank I believe you find you expectations for a cast bullet in your 30-06 to be a bit unrealistic, I.E., " Maybe a 150-160gr, 2300-2500fps." Your 30-06 will have a 10" twist in the barrel. Obtaining suitable accuracy, even "hunting accuracy", at that velocity is very, very difficult....mostly not probable. For hunting, a suitable 170 - 180 gr quality cast bullet pushed at 1940 fps can give you very good hunting accuracy to 200 yards with sufficient retained velocity to do the job. That, actually, is in the realm of a 30-30. That kind of cast bullet performance has accounted for countless deer out of forum members 30-30s, 300 Savages, .308Ws and 30-06s along with similar 30/31 caliber rifles.

    Also consider you will be needing to use GCs. I suggest you download the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook #3 and read/study the sections regarding casting and loading cast bullets. It's an excellent primer for cast bullet loading.
    Larry Gibson

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  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    I am a big fan of the Lee Loader, thats what started me into reloading. You should find the 30-06 easy to reload with it, cast or jacketed bullets, although with cast you will need to bell the necks to avoid shaving lead. I have used a tapered punch, and some have recommended spinning the point of a needle nose pliers in the case mouth.

    The 11gr Unique load sounds good, the 24gr is way excessive in my opinion, especially with lead. I haven't used the Lee 150 gr bullet, but really like the 170gr flat nose, and would recommend it for deer. You should gas check your bullets if shooting above plinking velocities, you might consider a Lee push through bullet sizeing die.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Larry Gibson View Post
    It's easy enough to load 30-06 cartridges with a Lee Loader. You will need a small tool to bell the case mouths if cast bullets are used. There should be such a tool in your 38 SPL Lee Loader set. Lee used to sell them for 30 cal, not sure if they still do. If not, one would be easy enough to make.

    To be frank I believe you find you expectations for a cast bullet in your 30-06 to be a bit unrealistic, I.E., " Maybe a 150-160gr, 2300-2500fps." Your 30-06 will have a 10" twist in the barrel. Obtaining suitable accuracy, even "hunting accuracy", at that velocity is very, very difficult....mostly not probable. For hunting, a suitable 170 - 180 gr quality cast bullet pushed at 1940 fps can give you very good hunting accuracy to 200 yards with sufficient retained velocity to do the job. That, actually, is in the realm of a 30-30. That kind of cast bullet performance has accounted for countless deer out of forum members 30-30s, 300 Savages, .308Ws and 30-06s along with similar 30/31 caliber rifles.

    Also consider you will be needing to use GCs. I suggest you download the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook #3 and read/study the sections regarding casting and loading cast bullets. It's an excellent primer for cast bullet loading.

    I agree with the heavier slower payload . Lee has a 180 and a 200 gr round nose mold available ad you can work up good loads with either. Also if you have a pair of needle nose pliers you can use that to bell your cases. Insert and twist but don't over do it . You want just enough bell to prevent shaving. Have fun be safe.

    Also just an observation on boolit size. All my 30 cal rifles seem to like .311 sized boolits. If they chamber easily they will shoot without problem, asuming you have a safe powder charge. Make a few dummy rounds to get the chambering issues , if any, worked out.
    Last edited by frkelly74; 02-17-2023 at 09:29 PM.
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  10. #10
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    I'll also recommend getting a good powder scale. You aren't going to be loading anywhere near fullhouse loads of powder so the Lee dipper will not work for what you want to do.

    Even though the Lee powder scale is about the cheapest available, I will advise getting another brand. I have one and it is a PITA to set and use.

    Robert

  11. #11
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    Mr. Gibson gives great advice. Cast bullets do the job and do it very well. It's just not jacketed. For a hunting bullet, I firmly suggest a heavy bullet at a slower velocity. 200 yards isn't impossible, but I think lots of practice in the casting / loading & shooting is necessary for ethical kills. Good luck & have fun.

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    Loading any rifle ammo on one is no big deal.
    A little slow maybe, but there is good reasons why they have sold so many over the years.
    If you cast for it, and don't have the gear to put on gas checks, powder coating will let you get up close to the gas check speeds.
    Shooting cast in the .30-06, the 'power' of it is also real close to a full house .30-30.

    I'd encourage getting a Lyman Cast handbook and a powder scale.
    Something that might also interest ya is to do a little research to check out 'the load'.
    it's 13 gr. of Red Dot for .30-06. I've had good luck with it behind a cast 190 SP and a 170RN.
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  13. #13
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    the 150grn hp that is the same as the 170gn flat point works very well 30/06 will be a doddle to load for,you have a heap of cases,keep using them and at some point down track..say 4-5 loadingsfind someone to FLR them and carry on as before.
    there is heaps of reduced load data out there for jacketed projectiles..125-130grn loads in .30/06 are a lot of fun and very very effective,they dont need to be at full power to be effective on lighter game... neckshot feral goats with these are close to decapitated.... chest shots leave lungs pulped,just dont hit major bones if using lighter projectiles pushed fast...
    leeloaders are heaps of fun..I have a few of them and if we can poke out .270w ammunition that is as good as if not better than factory offerings,you can do same for the mighty 06.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master John in WI's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the solid information and thoughts! I do use the case mouth expanding tool from Lee what loading .38. It has a stop on it, so it only allows a small amount of flare. I need to try using another tool, such as a close needle-nose pliers to see if a touch more flaring would help.
    I have a digital copy of the Lyman cast manual someplace. If I can get my old laptop to fire up, it should be on there.
    I also picked up a cheap bug decent digital reloading scale. I'm a chemist by training, and have a set of calibration weights. I tested it down to 0.005g, and it seems to do quite well. For the little bit I shoot, I would definitely weigh all the components--make sure the boolits are very close, make sure the powder charge is +/- 0.1gr. Without consistency, you can't get precision.
    Thanks for the thoughts. I'll dig up my Lyman Cast book. I have a decent rifle alloy (have to check my notes, but it was WW with a bit of tin). I'll check in once I do some more research. The other issue is ensuring I can actually find the other components I need, like primers and powder.
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    To be honest, and I hate to rain on everybody's parade, If you are only going to shoot 2 to 3 boxes a year in your 30-06 it is probably best just to belly up and buy factory rounds. If saving money is your goal then I think this is your best bet. If you have a local Wal-mart give them a visit. The Remington yellow and green box ammo is as good as it gets for hunting and you should be able to beat the $40/box by a good margin. Online retailers also could be your friend. I believe the days of $12/box are over but I think you can beat $40/box.
    Good Luck to you in whatever you decide,
    Rick

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    Get a hand priming tool using a rod and mallet to seat primers would make me a bit nervous.
    Last edited by DocSavage; 02-18-2023 at 11:56 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mk42gunner View Post
    I'll also recommend getting a good powder scale. You aren't going to be loading anywhere near fullhouse loads of powder so the Lee dipper will not work for what you want to do.

    Even though the Lee powder scale is about the cheapest available, I will advise getting another brand. I have one and it is a PITA to set and use.

    Robert
    In todays world... digital scales are really Cheap... get one with +/- .02 or some such for peanuts... Don't trust it... Keep a dime handy..

    Quote Originally Posted by DocSavage View Post
    Get a hand priming tool using a rodd and mallet to seat primers would make me a bit nervous.
    Read the other Lee Loader thread... the mallet works very well indeed... has been for Billions (like how much gifted to Ukraine) of rounds ..

  18. #18
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    Honestly after purchasing a press , the leeloaders are around the costs of a set of dies . Shoot cast - but don't overlook a box of a 100 jacketed for hunting if needed .

  19. #19
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    I have 7 Lee Loaders. I started with one in 38 Special in 1970. I have two for bottle necked cartridges, 30-06 and 7.62x54r. A couple thoughts; I would suggest starting with some jacketed bullets. Loading cast is a bit more involved, with the need for flaring and finding an alloy or gas checking to avoid leading. Also I would recommend a scale. The Safety Scale is usable and quite accurate and repeatable (a bit slower to settle and one has to learn to use a vernier scale). Dippers work quite well but accurate powder charges is a must. Sometimes when I feel "retro" I'll get out one of my Lee Loaders and pound out a few rounds. Richard Lee using a Lee Loader https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UeEl9wZyabc

    A problem now is components. Primers are difficult to find and expensive, and when in stock hover around $100.00 per thousand (I have seen some vendors selling large rifle primers for $18.00 per 100 count sleeve). Hunting bullets can be found for about $40.00 per hundred fairly easily. Powders for 30-06 seem fairly easy to find if you shop around. And if you buy powder or primers on line you have to pay the rip-off Haz-Mat fee which seems to vary but usually around $30.00.

    Casting is another addition to reloading but start up may not be worth the costs of alloy, molds, and assorted equipment which can be quite expensive depending on what level of equipment you choose (But I started casting with a stainless steel pot, a Coleman stove, a Lee ladle and a plastic mallet, I fluxed with sawdust and crayons, swiped a slotted spoon from Ma's kitchen for skimming and lubed with alox. Worked just OK and I had a lot of culls as temperatures were harder to control.).

    Lee Loaders are fun and simple and can load some quality ammo. But with the crazy reloading scene today it's not as easy to start as it was 4 years ago. I enjoy reloading and casting (I reload 5 handgun and 4 rifle calibers) and I won't buy a gun that I cannot reload for, except rimfire. But I have stocked up over the years so components are not a problem for me. I'd suggest reading up on reloading, checking vendors for components and maybe you'll just have to bite the bullet and buy factory ammo (shop around on line and you'll probably find 30-06 hunting ammo for less than $2.00 per round). I often check here for ammo; https://www.ammobuy.com/ammo/30-06
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  20. #20
    Boolit Master smkummer's Avatar
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    You got great advise above. We started with a lee target model loader ( mid 1970’s) for 30-06 (M1 garand) and it worked great until we got another M1 garand and that ammo wouldn’t work in the newer M1 garand until we got a rcbs rock chucker and full length sizing dies. I have used a fat tapered nail punch as a flaring tool for 30 cal. cases when loading cast bullets.
    Last edited by smkummer; 02-18-2023 at 03:24 PM.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check