Changing F250 5.4 intake manifold is not for the meek.

[Winger Ed.]

Whew! I'm glad that's done.

The '06 F250 with the 5.4 Triton had a bad low end miss and kept tossing a lean code.
After doing all the easy stuff, and the more I researched it- it kept pointing to a vacuum leak at the intake manifold.
Which is a common problem for the 3 valve 5.4. One thing about driving an old truck is that everybody else has had these
same problems 10-15 years ago, and researching and fixing such common problems is well plowed ground.

On the downside:
This truck is so tall, standing on the ground, the only thing you can reach is the battery and radiator filler cap.
They call it a front engine, but it looks like it is mounted under the cab. Everything has to be done with a step ladder,
or just crawling up in there and laying down on top of it. I was not looking forward to this project.
The manifold is $300., and the cheapest anyone will change it it another $800.
After doing this project, now I think that's kind of a bargain.

Crawling up in there, leaning over on one knee and forearm, this may be the hardest car repair project I've ever done.
Being sore and stiff in places I didn't even know I had- I'd only spend 2-3 hours a day up in there with it.
I could do it again faster after doing this one, but after this last four days with it- I sure don't want to.

Anyway, it's done and the old Thunderbolt Grease Slapper is back to its old happy self.

[Recycled bullet]

How is the fuel trim adaptation now?

[high standard 40]

Ed, I think the proper term is "cab forward", not "front engine". At least that is as I remember from working at the Ford dealership. The cowl and bottom edge of the windshield is over the back of the engine.

[Winger Ed.]

How is the fuel trim adaptation now?

I cleaned & flushed the injectors, and re-set the computer.
The (4) O2 sensors are fresh. I haven't put it on a diagnostic tool yet, but it seems to be fine.

It's only got 61,000 miles on it, but I've more than kept up with the preventive maintenance.
Some things I've changed more for their age than mileage is plugs, coils, filters, trans fluid, serpentine belt & pullies,
coolant, front springs, cab mount bushings, shocks, grease frt. wheel bearings, MAF sensor, oil at 3,000 miles.
The rear axle oil is on the list for when the weather warms up.

[Winger Ed.]

Ed, I think the proper term is "cab forward",

After crawling around working by laying on top of it and reaching WAY! back in there,
I leaning toward calling it 'mid engine-under cab'.

[TurnipEaterDown]

Be glad you don't live in a Midwest state (or anywhere else corrosion is more prevalent than Texas) or I am sure you would learn the joy of exhaust manifold stud corrosion on the Ford modular motor as well...

[Recycled bullet]

I cleaned & flushed the injectors, and re-set the computer.
The (4) O2 sensors are fresh. I haven't put it on a diagnostic tool yet, but it seems to be fine.

It's only got 61,000 miles on it, but I've more than kept up with the preventive maintenance.
Some things I've changed more for their age than mileage is plugs, coils, filters, trans fluid, serpentine belt & pullies,
coolant, front springs, cab mount bushings, shocks, grease frt. wheel bearings, oil at 3,000 miles.
The rear axle oil is on the list for when the weather warms up.

That truck will last forever if you keep maintaining it like that!

[Winger Ed.]

That truck will last forever if you keep maintaining it like that!

I bought it new in '06 with the intention it'd be the last truck I ever bought.
I don't mind maintaining it like we did the jets and helicopters in the Service.
It helps keep me out of those crooked BINGO parlors.

I've heard bad things about the timing chain & camshaft phasers on them,
but I doubt I'll ever put enough miles on it to worry about that much.

[Recycled bullet]

My 150 is an 04 just passed 103k miles.

I have replaced the engine twice in that truck. I have replaced both in a window of 25k miles.

The original motor failed from lack of oil changes/lack of oil +towing a heavy trailer. That's when I bought it, as a broken truck.

All the bearing caps for both banks camshafts were broken and could move the camshafts by pinching it with two fingers and applying pressure. I don't understand how it was capable of being driven into the shop under it's own power. I think the timing chains and valve covers was keeping them from falling off It shouldn't have been able to breath or make compression, the destruction was complete.


The engine I bought from jasper made noises, started failing from low oil pressure they finally agreed to warranty it after slow walking the claim for three years.

So I replaced it again this past June. Man it was hot over a hundred degrees whooooo Eeeee!

[GregLaROCHE]

I’m surprised you have to do so much maintenance at such low mileage. You are right to keep on top of what needs to be done.

[Winger Ed.]

I’m surprised you have to do so much maintenance at such low mileage. You are right to keep on top of what needs to be done.

A lot is sort of unnecessary. I've taken off more than a few fairly good parts, and replaced them with OEM new ones.
I try to keep it in great shape. When anybody I know breaks down-- they call me. I don't have anybody to call if I break down.
I keep it out of afternoon direct sun and even wax it once or twice a year.
The neighbors have seen it parked in the same spot for 6 years, but still think it's new..

I was asked one time why I spent the time and money to change the transmission fluid in our 2002 Explorer that only has
111,000 miles on it when it was working just fine.
I told 'em that no, most people never think at the trans. fluid until the transmission trashes out and has to be rebuilt.
Ten years ago, it was about $2,500 to have this transmission rebuilt.
Compared to that-- changing the fluid at 60,000 miles is free.

[dswancutt]

I had to do an intake on my mom's 2003 F-150 4x4, and like you I would not do it again. I ended up buying this because the step stool was not cutting it.

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/81166/10002/-1

Expensive, but worth every penny.

[Winger Ed.]

That thing is clever.
I've got a nice step ladder thing that works,
but must have made at least three thousand trips moving it from one side to the other or front.

I've got one of those 300-ish pound Ranch Hand 'pusher' front bumpers that stick out about a foot too.
After trying to reach or climb over it, I was seriously considering taking it and the front tires off, and setting it down on the ground.

[MaryB]

Local shop lifts the cab off.. while swapping the intake they also do the plugs and put in the plug repair kit if needed. My 2001 F150 had the 5.4 Triton cracked intake problem... it is COMMON in them because the coolant crossover tube is aluminum and the intake is plastic! #1 cylinder starts showing issues then it will hydro lock and you pray it didn't bend any valves or a rod when it does it! Or break the cam bearings... mine was the year before the cam phasers so that wasn't an issue. There is a delete kit for them that the local garage puts on along with new timing chain guides(plastic).

Now I have a 100,000 mile warranty, no time limit. At 4k miles a year driving I will hit that when I am in my mid to late 80's LOL

[GregLaROCHE]

My back hurts just hearing you guys talk about hanging over into an engine compartment. I spent my time doing it. Now it’s just to check the oil dipstick etc.

[Winger Ed.]

Local shop lifts the cab off.. while swapping the intake they also do the plugs and put in the plug repair kit if needed.

I'd thought about trying to lift mine up to get a few more inches back there.
I changed the plugs and coils a year or so ago.
It had those original kind of spark plugs that easily break off.
I'd heard stories where they couldn't get the nose/bottom half the plug out,
or a chunk of it fell into the cylinder, and they had to pull the heads.
Then a spark plug change turned into a $3-4,000 job.

I was real careful with pulling mine, and only broke one.
Yep,,, it was the one at the back that seems like it is under the driver's seat.
Once again, being old, the problem was well plowed ground and the special removal tool I bought for it
had come down in price and was in its third generation.

At the back, there are 3 wiring plugs, and a vacuum line to deal with.
Getting the plugs unclipped and off is a pain, but once unbolted, and the alternator is off,
the manifold slides forward enough to reach in there.

I lost a day trying to reconnect the vacuum hose. It was about a inch too short for the new manifold.
I finally just made another hose to connect with the port and go to the power brake and fuel rail sensor.

[Winger Ed.]

My back hurts just hearing you guys talk about hanging over into an engine compartment. I spent my time doing it. .

It might be my imagination, but I seem to remember doing things like this were somewhat easier when I was 28 instead of 68.
---I'm learning more and more every day that getting old isn't for the meek or faint of heart.

[farmbif]

wait till you try and replace the rear two plugs and coils. and thats the engine with the problem plugs. if you do need to replace them be prepared for a few days work and buying this
https://cal-vantools.com/products/th...rt-repair-kit/
hopefully the plugs won't break in half.
I was fortunate and after trying myself to fix the triton got a local expert with a good back to do the most difficult stuff. dont settle for discount no name parts.
I did a bunch of research and ended up with Delphi coils and denso plugs which turned out to be a good choice

[Finster101]

I turned wrenches professionally for over 40 years and I definitely feel it in my lower back and hands.

[Winger Ed.]

wait till you try and replace the rear two plugs and coils.

Oh yeah. I already graduated from that school.
I was able to get the broken one-- driver's side rear out with the Lysle tool and didn't have to re-cut & tap the hole for a insert.
I've heard horror stories of plugs just blowing out of these too.

I put a new set of OEM Motorcraft plugs in it, and the new ones don't break off. They're made more like old school ones,
and the tips aren't separate from the base/body of the plug like the first generation ones.

I did the plug change when a coil or two went sour around 58,000 miles or so. I put in a set of Edelbrocks.
This summer, one of them started acting up less than 2,000 miles later, so I changed them all for new Motorcraft OEM coils.

I drive less than 1,000 miles a year, and think I'm done with changing coils & plugs.

I looked real quick at the old manifold. I couldn't find a crack, but it sort of looks like the gaskets under it were leaking.
The OEM gaskets for it are pretty big bucks by themselves. As old as it is, I'd probably have changed the manifold anyway.