RepackboxWidenersMidSouth Shooters SupplySnyders Jerky
Titan ReloadingInline FabricationLee PrecisionRotoMetals2
Reloading Everything Load Data
Results 1 to 12 of 12

Thread: Making 356Win from 444 Marlin

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    The Willamette Valley, in Oregon
    Posts
    704

    Making 356Win from 444 Marlin

    I have ~30 used 444 Marlin brass, going to see about making some 356Win practice ammo.
    My research indicated a few different methods that folks have used; without buying a forming die ($$), can I just use my 356Win sizing die & go from there ?
    Sounds like it could be possible to just use a good lube and do a careful resize from there.
    I figured at that point, I could then see if I need to ream / anneal etc.
    Thoughts ?

  2. #2
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    oklahoma
    Posts
    2,488
    Only apply the thinnest amount of lube to the necks or you will get lube dents/creases.

    I usually lube and then wipe off excess leaving only the smallest amount of residual lube.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master


    cwlongshot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Central Connecticut
    Posts
    3,735
    How many are ya needing?

    Yea 100% annealing is required. Your gonna invest time & effort only to find split & useless cases down the road.

    I have some brass maybe we can work something out.
    NRA Life member • REMEMBER, FREEDOM IS NOT FREE its being paid for in BLOOD.
    Come visit my RUMBLE & uTube page's !!

    https://www.RUMBLE.com/user/Cwlongshot
    https://youtube.com/channel/UCBOIIvlk30qD5a7xVLfmyfw

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master


    stubshaft's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Southernmost State of the Union
    Posts
    5,879
    When I used to form my 307 Winnies I just ran the 444 cases through a 308 sizing die.
    Old enough to know better, young enough to do it anyway!

    Men who don't understand women fall into two categories: bachelors and husbands!

  5. #5
    Boolit Master 15meter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    SE Michigan
    Posts
    2,536
    That's one I've never done. Based on what has worked for me in the past, I'd start with a 40ish caliber
    die to start the necking down. Doesn't need to be down as far as the shoulder will end up but enough to get it in the 358 diameter die. I am guessing you just can't shove a 444 into 358 diameter hole. And going down in increments usually gives better results.

    Once you get the neck down to fit in the seater die, do a full length size with the seater die, sans seater stem. Seater die should be a little bigger than the full length size die. Trim to length, then full length size with the regular sizer die.

    Test chamber, if it goes in your good, if not, sacrifice a shellholder by grinding .005" off the top and resize and check chambering. Keep grinding until you get consistent chambering.

    Time to anneal and check to see if your neck wall is too thick. Necking down that far, you may get into neck turning.

    That much movement, annealing is almost guaranteed, with out annealing, you're almost certain to split necks on first firing.

    Good luck.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    The Willamette Valley, in Oregon
    Posts
    704
    Thank you all for the good advice;

  7. #7
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Montana
    Posts
    1,827
    Kestrel4k,
    have you tried taking 308 Win brass up to .356?
    even without the rim, dummy rounds feed/chamber/extract/eject just fine in my Marlin JES rebore.
    ..

  8. #8
    Boolit Master AnthonyB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    1,381
    Quote Originally Posted by Beerd View Post
    Kestrel4k,
    have you tried taking 308 Win brass up to .356?
    even without the rim, dummy rounds feed/chamber/extract/eject just fine in my Marlin JES rebore.
    ..
    Plus my Marlin and Winchester. Almost all I use now; the 356 brass is stored away.
    Tony

  9. #9
    Boolit Master 15meter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    SE Michigan
    Posts
    2,536
    Just because I much prefer "this is what happened when I did this" as opposed to "this should work" I went out to the shed and dug out a couple of 444's. I don't own a 356 Winchester but I do have a 308 die.

    First try, I first necked down about the first 5/8" of the case with a 40 S&W die. Then full length size with the 308 die.

    Into the die an eighth of an inch, back out, then turn the case slightly and back into the die. Repeated until full length sized. Success, nice looking case.

    Try two was straight into the 308 die, same in and out incrementally. Not quite as nice a looking a case but functional.

    Based on my extensive testing of two cases going all the way down to 308, I am reasonably sure you can make it to 358.

    And I think the intermediate neck down helped.

    You will still need to anneal and most likely have to neck turn, but it looks doable.

    Good luck.

    And I think I just invented a new wildcat.
    Last edited by 15meter; 02-14-2023 at 10:48 PM.

  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master
    rockrat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    5,325
    I made 356 from 444 by just running the 444 into a 356win die. Trim and anneal

  11. #11
    Boolit Master 15meter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    SE Michigan
    Posts
    2,536
    My massive testing on forming down 444 brass to a 444/308.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20230214_154611_resized(1).jpg 
Views:	9 
Size:	37.1 KB 
ID:	310659


    What a neck. Giraffe neck case.

    New wildcat, 444/308 GNC?

  12. #12
    Banner Sponsor

    lar45's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Arkansas
    Posts
    2,827
    I make 309JDJ from 444 with one partial pass in a 308win size die. Annealing is definitely needed afterwards. RP brass works great, starline has a much bigger loss rate.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check